lgarvey
Newly Registered
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:22 am
Location: Manchester, UK

Carmona bonsai shedding leaves

Hi Folks,

This is my first post here, I am after a bit of advice! My g/f got me a bonsai tree about 1.5 weeks ago.

1) It has recently started shedding quite a lot of leaves. Is this sometihng to be concerned about or simply a result of it being moved?

2) The plant has started to sprout new shoots -- do I just cut these off?

3) The room is fairly dark all the time, is there a desktop lap of some sorts that I can use to give the tree a consistent level of daily light?

4) The room is fairly warm but also dry (due to heating). I assume that regular misting will mean this is not a problem.

5) Is the type of water used important? Would tap water harm the tree?

The instructions for caring for the tree are as follows:

"This bonsai has been grown for 7-8 years in native china. Plaser the plant indoors in a light position not in direct sunlight. Keep at a constant temperature 20-25 degrees and avoid draughts. How you water is important. The compost should be kept moist at all times and never be allowed to completely dry out. An easy way to water is to place in a bowl (or sink) and fill with water until the soil is covered. Leave to soak for 10-15 minutes then lift out and allow to drain. Mist foilaage with water on a regular basis. Feed with plant fertiliser following the instructions but at half strenght and only during the sprind and summer gowing season. In the spring new shoots will grow, these can be trimmed to maintain shape of the tree. In the autum some leaves may drop, but will regrow in spring. When a bonsai is first purchased or moved to a new position it is not unusual for some leaves to drop, these will soon re grow."

The tree is absolutely beautiful and I hope to care for it properly for many years to come! Any advice, recommendations of books or resources, would be greatly appreciated! =)

Look forward to your feedback!

L

alexinoklahoma
Senior Member
Posts: 273
Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:21 am
Location: Central Oklahoma

Welcome, 'L' :-)

First, I have not grown a Carmona macrophylla myself, so I am going from memory here of what I have read, but a lot of generalities apply, for sure.

1)Not unusual for this species - no concern for now

2)Depends on your intent - cut off if you want it to say 'as is' - will cause it to backbud possibly, too, giving it a 'fuller' look. You need to read up on pruning this species (lots to learn on 'pruning' as far as what it does physiologically to plant(s))

3)Not really - be sure to get appropriate wattage/'frequency' of spectral output. Incadescent is not an option, some fluoro's are acceptable, *research* this one, for sure - sunlight is by far the best ;-)

4)Misting is *absolutely* worthless as far as providing humidity - a fallacy that some think will help; all it does is possibly get water deposits upon leaves, LOL ;-) A humidity tray can help (search the term - a tray below pot that has water, sometimes filled with pebbles, but pot does not touch water at all, essentially) Better to have a humid room if at all possible - I have put large tub of water in room and gotten humidity way up that way, the bigger the better, literally.

5)Yes - some tap water has excess chlorine, which is not horrid, but can be semi-harmful and/or water may have trace minerals which can build up. Chlorine can be degassed by letting water sit overnight to 'air out' (a gallon of water can degas within a few hours usually in open container, IME). Trace minerals (think of the white stuff left in jugs or whatever where water evaporates from - repeated evaporations will let this stuff (usually calcium 'salts', fwiw) build up. not all that harmful, but can affect soil a bit, and Carmona *is* finicky, so every chance of minimizng things shouyld be taken. Used now and then -> no big deal basically, but if you can get a water-filter of *any* type, it will help in the long run, even one of those that cost $10-20 bucks and attaches to the faucet (or a pour-through type upon a jug even is beneficial) Make sense? I had ground water that had a LOT of minerals in it, and I could flake off stuff from pots after every dozen or so waterings, big hassle but never really affected plants with 'preventive maintenance'. Answer is yes, you can use tap water, but better to 'filter' it if economically feasible, and a few dollars makes a heck of a difference in most situations unless you are very fortunate to live in an outstanding municipality (or have clear mountain-stream water, LOL!

*** Do not immerse plant to water it...Not ever unless you understand the necessity for such drastic action ;-) Soil should be semi-free draining at least, and only water it, from above, when soil is semi-dry an inch or so down, and do not let it go totally dry - ever. Easy as that :-) Do not mist it unless you have great water quality - period!

For some great learning 'articles', go memorize (and yes, you need to thoroughly understand 99% of the stuff there *eventually*) go to evergreengardenworks.com/articles.htm Time spent on those writings will pay you back with a rather happy plant, and a g/f that appreciates how well you take care of her 'gift' ;-) Happy to clarify anything I left out or made 'muddy', but that should get you started off in the right direction, I hope....

HTH,
Alex

arboricola
Senior Member
Posts: 224
Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:07 pm
Location: Minnesota zone 4

Just a couple things to add. This tree likes a lot of light, so get it under an fluoresscent light. About 16 hours a day should do it.

I use distilled water for all my trees. Hardness of the water is a real issue where I live. You can get it at the grocery store for about 70 cents a gal.. No chlorine or salts to worry about and use it to mist too. Keeps the leaves nice and clean.

Phil...

lgarvey
Newly Registered
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:22 am
Location: Manchester, UK

Hey,


That's really great help, thanks! I'll get hold of a humidity tray and some gravel and a flourescent light too.

I also noticed a very small amount white (mould?) at the base of the trunk, kind of more on the soil. Is this anything to worry about?

It's funny, I have a couple of other plants but I just water them and feed them occasionally. Yet the bonsai seems to need a considerably greater amount of care and attention.

L

alexinoklahoma
Senior Member
Posts: 273
Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:21 am
Location: Central Oklahoma

That white 'mold' can very well be water 'deposits', like calcium carbonate or such from water leaving behind dissolved solids. See if it comes off with a wetted finger, and maybe even taste it to see if it has a mineral taste (if yo udare, LOL!)...

Trees in pots take a LOT more attention than 'normal' species - lots of folks do not realize this until waaay too late, unfortunately :-(

Alex

lgarvey
Newly Registered
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:22 am
Location: Manchester, UK

Hey Folks,

Thanks for the great advice!

I now have a 30watt flourescent light trained on the plant for 16 hours a day. It is on a timer so I don't have to worry about it.

I also have a rather large humidity tray full of pebbles and full of water and the tree sat in its pot & tray on the pebbles that are in the larger humidity tray.

I have a Britta water filter and give it regular water. When the leaves started shedding like crazy, I had let the compost go a bit dry, based on something I had read on a bonsai website and that I think was also mentioned above. So now, I'm experimenting with a small amount of daily watering (excess water can drain away), and the plant seems to be coming back to life with new leaves around the plant, new shoots etc!

I'm amazed at how quickly it is responding, actually.

L



Return to “BONSAI FORUM”