Boxwood or Euonymus, it needs to be outside unless you live in the sub-artic like I do. Let it get plenty of light and water if dry. It will need less water as the weather gets colder. Protect the roots if temp goes below 30 degrees and stays there.
Phil...
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 224
- Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:07 pm
- Location: Minnesota zone 4
-
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2007 8:09 pm
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:21 am
- Location: Central Oklahoma
Unfortunately, yes, its very bad, IMO. It may limp along for awhile, but there is no way to induce dormancy, or the semblance of a 'winter rest', even if an evergreen species. With little photonic energy upon the leaves, the chlorophyll will not be happy and the plant will 'starve', in essence, and the tissues will, most likely, not produce the necessary 'chemicals' for proper growth and to stimulate the rhythms/cycles of the tree's genetic content. A super-bright high-wattage (compact-fluoro and/or MH minimum) bulb upon it would help *greatly*, but unlikely it would be enough in the equation for indoor-happiness of 'hardwood plant life'. It is *possible*, though very unprobable if you can see the difference in the words there.supertollamy wrote: it must live indoors! is this bad?
Perhaps the 'college'/school would allow you to place it in-ground outside somewhere for the duration. Tree could be placed in a bigger pot (using typical repotting guidelines, of course) and then place entire pot in-ground for easy removal at a later date. Not an uncommon practice and sometimes done to let roots 'escape' out pot drain hole(s) for easier dig-up and development of tree. The most area that would be affected would be about a square foot of ground in a garden bed or wherever, IMO. Otherwise, it is a grim future for your nice 'tree'. I am so sorry to say that, too, with your apparent joy found from the obtaining of such a nice 'specimen'.
I still go with the 'euonymus' variety ID myself, but I am just a 'hobbyist' that enjoys the attempts at accurate ID of species. It is likely I could never be considered an 'expert' in a court-of-law or other type environment, LOL. Follow me on that? DId ya get my PM?? There are also lots of googlable sites that list plenty of ID traits for the different ID's mentioned - stuff like flower-shape, stem shape (square-v-flat-round-etc) and other things that are best seen in-person. It is not too difficult to nail down the species when you have the full-listings of traits needed for ID. I do know of someone that may be able to help if I can copy some of your pics and e-mail to him and/or post on another type Board (Arbor Day forum, per se), but you can do this as well if you desire.
HTH,
Alex
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 224
- Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:07 pm
- Location: Minnesota zone 4
- Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
supertollamy,
If you cannot place it outside on campus perhaps you can return it to your home for a few years. Planting it in the ground is advice that is often given anyway. This serves to thicken the trunk. Where would this be?
There are other species that will perform much better in your situation, indoors, Ficus being the most obvious. At any rate don't give up, just adapt. Bonsai takes patience and commitment.
Norm
If you cannot place it outside on campus perhaps you can return it to your home for a few years. Planting it in the ground is advice that is often given anyway. This serves to thicken the trunk. Where would this be?
There are other species that will perform much better in your situation, indoors, Ficus being the most obvious. At any rate don't give up, just adapt. Bonsai takes patience and commitment.
Norm
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:21 am
- Location: Central Oklahoma