recently I have found a cedar ( not sure the spiecies but it's blueish ) in the back lot of a carpark. I've cleared it with the owner, who planted it 25+ years ago to go ahead and excavate said tree. it should be o.k because it's been naturally dwarfed by the fact that it's growing under a log.... now, someone wanna give me a hint or two on the best way as to not put the tree into shock?
Cheers!!
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cahl,
I have never worked with this species so I cannot give you any specifics. If you are able and willing to wait the process can be carried out over several seasons. This spring trench around two opposite sides of the plant and replace the soil with loose gritty soil. The next year do the same on the other two sides. Finally, lift the plant the third year. This may not be necessary depending on the condition of the roots and the type of soil it is in now.
Decide if you are going to put it into a growing box or the ground. If the former, prepare your container and gather your soil components. Wooden growing boxes are good and can be sized to accommodate the individual tree in question, be sure to provide excellent drainage. An excessive volume of soil is detrimental, as it tends to remain too wet leading to root rot. By using the smallest size container possible this is avoided. If you have the material on hand you can even make the container after the tree is dug, thus allowing you to size it appropriately. If the latter, prepare a spot in your garden before you dig the tree.
It goes without saying that you should try to get as much of the root ball as possible.Wrap the root ball for transport using burlap or plastic. I don't know how big this tree is but if it has to go into the back of a truck for any distance make sure to cover it to avoid desiccation. Once you have it planted you will do no styling for several years, some suggest three. I have had a collected beech seem to recover for two years but not really thrive. When I finally gave up on it I discovered that it had not put on any fresh root growth. It is essential that the tree is vigorous before any styling can be done.
Some suggest pruning the top to “balanceâ€
I have never worked with this species so I cannot give you any specifics. If you are able and willing to wait the process can be carried out over several seasons. This spring trench around two opposite sides of the plant and replace the soil with loose gritty soil. The next year do the same on the other two sides. Finally, lift the plant the third year. This may not be necessary depending on the condition of the roots and the type of soil it is in now.
Decide if you are going to put it into a growing box or the ground. If the former, prepare your container and gather your soil components. Wooden growing boxes are good and can be sized to accommodate the individual tree in question, be sure to provide excellent drainage. An excessive volume of soil is detrimental, as it tends to remain too wet leading to root rot. By using the smallest size container possible this is avoided. If you have the material on hand you can even make the container after the tree is dug, thus allowing you to size it appropriately. If the latter, prepare a spot in your garden before you dig the tree.
It goes without saying that you should try to get as much of the root ball as possible.Wrap the root ball for transport using burlap or plastic. I don't know how big this tree is but if it has to go into the back of a truck for any distance make sure to cover it to avoid desiccation. Once you have it planted you will do no styling for several years, some suggest three. I have had a collected beech seem to recover for two years but not really thrive. When I finally gave up on it I discovered that it had not put on any fresh root growth. It is essential that the tree is vigorous before any styling can be done.
Some suggest pruning the top to “balanceâ€
Cahl,
[url=https://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATcollectring%20trees%20from%20the%20wild%20W%20Pall.htm]Here[/url]is part I of a three part article [The article links the subsequent sections.] by [url=https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=https://www.walter-pall.de/&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=1&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dwalter%2Bpall%2B%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26hs%3Dd7y%26pwst%3D1]Walter Pall[/url] about his yamadori collecting techniques [In your case: 'Urbandori'
].
I hope it is helpful
, Good luck & please keep us posted.
ynot
[url=https://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATcollectring%20trees%20from%20the%20wild%20W%20Pall.htm]Here[/url]is part I of a three part article [The article links the subsequent sections.] by [url=https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=https://www.walter-pall.de/&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=1&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dwalter%2Bpall%2B%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26hs%3Dd7y%26pwst%3D1]Walter Pall[/url] about his yamadori collecting techniques [In your case: 'Urbandori'
].I hope it is helpful
, Good luck & please keep us posted.ynot
. Nice to be back!