Hi There,
I got a Chinese Elm delivered to me today in the mail. It was sent in a box over the course of 5 days. It has leaves on it. As you may know it is the middle of winter in Massachusetts.
I understand that these trees require a period of dormancy. I'm unsure about whether I should try to give the tree a summer climate indoors or if I should just keep it outside. What should I do once the Spring and Summer come?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks so much for your help in advance. My new tree thanks you too.
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Gnome
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- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
OTOTO,
You are likely to find conflicting information regarding this aspect of Chinese Elm culture. It is my understanding that they are sub-tropical and therefore more forgiving of climate than true temperate trees. Some will, however, insist that they require a full dormancy. The species has a wide distribution in nature as well as several cultivars which seems to add to the confusion. I have, with one exception, kept mine as temperate trees and this has served me well.
I mention this not to try to muddy the waters but to lessen your anxiety about the remainder of this season. I definitely would not attempt a dormancy this year. Dormancy in temperate trees is a process that begins after the summer solstice and builds throughout the fall and early winter. Considering where it came from, and the time of year, I would not attempt a dormancy at this time. Once you get it outside and thriving you will have all season to ponder your next move.
Please read this thread that will give some pointers on watering, which will be your first hurdle. Supplemental lighting will also be beneficial.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... =36&t=1479
Norm
You are likely to find conflicting information regarding this aspect of Chinese Elm culture. It is my understanding that they are sub-tropical and therefore more forgiving of climate than true temperate trees. Some will, however, insist that they require a full dormancy. The species has a wide distribution in nature as well as several cultivars which seems to add to the confusion. I have, with one exception, kept mine as temperate trees and this has served me well.
I mention this not to try to muddy the waters but to lessen your anxiety about the remainder of this season. I definitely would not attempt a dormancy this year. Dormancy in temperate trees is a process that begins after the summer solstice and builds throughout the fall and early winter. Considering where it came from, and the time of year, I would not attempt a dormancy at this time. Once you get it outside and thriving you will have all season to ponder your next move.
Please read this thread that will give some pointers on watering, which will be your first hurdle. Supplemental lighting will also be beneficial.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... =36&t=1479
Norm
Here are some pics I took just after I opened the box. I have some of the packaging too but they are >max file size I can attach.
Any thoughts at all about the fertilization at this point? would it be helpful to give it a minimal nitrogen fertilization at this stage?
Any thoughts at all about the fertilization at this point? would it be helpful to give it a minimal nitrogen fertilization at this stage?
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Gnome
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- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
OTOTO,
Can you post a clearer picture of your soil/medium? I can't really tell much from the ones posted.
Norm
Start here and here.What would you recommend replacing the peat with?
Can you post a clearer picture of your soil/medium? I can't really tell much from the ones posted.
If you can get some sort of fluorescent fixture within a few inches of the tree it will help until you can get it outside. BTW, are you able and willing to grow outside?Any suggestions on a nice light to supplement the natural (but weak) light coming in?
Norm
I believe that the Chinese Elm is doing quite alright. I see a lot of new growth.
The giant leaves that are coming up are not very attractive compared to the old ones, and the shoots that the leaves are on are very long. Should I wait to trim any of this until the strength of Spring comes back to my little guy?
Norm, you can tell from the pictures that I have the tree in the window with a $10 Walmart grow light just a few inches above it to help add light from 7:30AM to 8:00PM.
I'm watering it minimum every other day (but shooting for every day)
If you blow up the larger photo you can see the soil medium a bit better.
The giant leaves that are coming up are not very attractive compared to the old ones, and the shoots that the leaves are on are very long. Should I wait to trim any of this until the strength of Spring comes back to my little guy?
Norm, you can tell from the pictures that I have the tree in the window with a $10 Walmart grow light just a few inches above it to help add light from 7:30AM to 8:00PM.
I'm watering it minimum every other day (but shooting for every day)
If you blow up the larger photo you can see the soil medium a bit better.
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Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
OTOTO,
Glad to hear you're doing OK. The large leaves and elongated shoots are due to low light levels in your home. I think I would allow them to grow for now, don't rock the boat. Once you get it outside you can begin to trim.
The soil does appear rather heavy (Tom's eyes are better than he lets on) be careful about watering on a schedule the soil in the depths of the pot may be staying wet. Have you read about the chopstick method?
Norm
Glad to hear you're doing OK. The large leaves and elongated shoots are due to low light levels in your home. I think I would allow them to grow for now, don't rock the boat. Once you get it outside you can begin to trim.
The soil does appear rather heavy (Tom's eyes are better than he lets on) be careful about watering on a schedule the soil in the depths of the pot may be staying wet. Have you read about the chopstick method?
Norm
Hi Gnome,
I have read about the chopstick method but I have not employed it yet.
Were I to change the soil completely I think I should wait to do it (along with trimming) until I move it outside and it is more vigorous? Would this be Okay (another 1.5-2 months indoors) or is the soil change doable anytime?
I have read about the chopstick method but I have not employed it yet.
Were I to change the soil completely I think I should wait to do it (along with trimming) until I move it outside and it is more vigorous? Would this be Okay (another 1.5-2 months indoors) or is the soil change doable anytime?
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Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
OTOTO,
This should give you some tips about proper bonsai soil.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... =36&t=3422
Norm
I've always re-potted mine when they were coming out of dormancy but lacking that, Spring would probably still be your best bet. Don't worry too much about the heavy soil for now. If you manage your watering carefully (chopstick method) there should be no problems, short term.Were I to change the soil completely I think I should wait to do it (along with trimming) until I move it outside and it is more vigorous? Would this be Okay (another 1.5-2 months indoors)
This should give you some tips about proper bonsai soil.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... =36&t=3422
Norm