LexStarwalker
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Spring & Summer Care for New Japanese Maple Bonsai?

Hello friends!

I took the plunge and bought a tree today. This will be my first bonsai attempt. I got a Coral Bark Japanese Maple Acer palmatum 'Sango kaku'. I brought it home and put it in a pot that's 1-2 inches greater in diameter than the pot it came in. The tree has buds that are just beginning to open.

I live in WA, near Seattle. I read we have an ideal climate for this tree. As you can see in the pictures, I'm in an apartment with a small east-facing balcony.

From what I've read, I've gathered that I should just let this tree grow for a year (or more), until the trunk is at the desired thickness. Is this correct?

I'm looking for any advice/pointers on what I should be doing now and this summer for my tree. Should I do any pruning of the branches or leaves this year, or should I just let it grow for a year?

Is the pot it's in big enough, or should I go bigger? When I took the tree out of the pot it came in, it wasn't completely root-bound (I.e. I could still see soil), but the roots held the soil in the shape of the pot.

Ultimately I think I'll go upright or informal upright for this tree, but I'm not married to either idea. I'm very open to any suggestions or advice on how to proceed. I just want my tree to be happy and healthy and beautiful!

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Last edited by LexStarwalker on Wed Mar 27, 2013 8:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

tomc
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Soil for trees in shallow pots is about as natural as Tang ...©

I'm taking this detour because your repot had no mention of what soil you used.

Odds are its a loess or peat based soil completely unsuitable for your tree.

That black finely crumbed soil will hold much too much water and drown your hearty temperate tree,

You next casualty will be to bring it indoors. It needs to live outdoors. All four seasons.

LexStarwalker
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Thanks for the reply.

The tree will be outside year-round.

I just used some potting soil I had. I didn't think I had to use bonsai soil as I'm not putting it into a bonsai pot at this time.

If you think this soil won't work for the tree for the time being, would soil for cactus/succulent plants work (as I have some of that lying around as well)?

I'm also thinking I will need to repot to a (much) bigger pot in autumn, as this pot is too small and the soil could freeze in the winter (unlikely, I know, in this region, but I'd rather not take chances). Is this correct?

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Gnome
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Lex,
I just used some potting soil I had. I didn't think I had to use bonsai soil as I'm not putting it into a bonsai pot at this time.
What was the soil of the original root-ball like? I assume it was of a similar texture. Is this correct? Did you remove the old soil or simply slip-pot it?

I avoid having two radically different soil textures in the same pot. This can lead to a situation where one zone is either too wet or too dry. If you have not removed the old soil and you have used a similar soil to back-fill, it can surely survive another year in the same soil the nursery grew it in. Your watering pattern will be different than if it were in a proper bonsai soil, but it can be done.

On the other hand, now, since it has not yet leafed out, would be a good time to re-pot it properly. Do not disturb it again unless you are going to upgrade the soil.

Please read this thread:
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/v ... php?t=3422

Norm

P.S. I see that this a grafted tree and that the graft is not a particularly good match in bark color/texture. This is not ideal for bonsai which is, after all, as much art as horticulture. For bonsai, seedlings or cuttings are preferred.

Norm

tomc
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LexStarwalker wrote:I just used some potting soil I had. I didn't think I had to use bonsai soil as I'm not putting it into a bonsai pot at this time.
Why ask for advice? If your only going to do your own thing. Let us know how that works out, OK?

LexStarwalker
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Thanks for the reply!
Gnome wrote:Lex,
I just used some potting soil I had. I didn't think I had to use bonsai soil as I'm not putting it into a bonsai pot at this time.
What was the soil of the original root-ball like? I assume it was of a similar texture. Is this correct? Did you remove the old soil or simply slip-pot it?

I avoid having two radically different soil textures in the same pot. This can lead to a situation where one zone is either too wet or too dry. If you have not removed the old soil and you have used a similar soil to back-fill, it can surely survive another year in the same soil the nursery grew it in. Your watering pattern will be different than if it were in a proper bonsai soil, but it can be done.

On the other hand, now, since it has not yet leafed out, would be a good time to re-pot it properly. Do not disturb it again unless you are going to upgrade the soil.

Please read this thread:
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/v ... php?t=3422

Norm
Yes, the soil I used looks exactly like the soil the tree came in. Since the soils were practically identical, I didn't remove the old soil.

Thanks for the link! That was very informative. I didn't realize that I should be using bonsai soil before the tree has gone through the bonsai process. I'll most likely upgrade the soil as you suggest. If I repot using bonsai soil, should I use a bigger pot?

Can you actually buy a decent bonsai soil mix, or do you have to buy the individual ingredients and mix it yourself? I don't mind mixing, I'd just like to find the most cost-effective method.
P.S. I see that this a grafted tree and that the graft is not a particularly good match in bark color/texture. This is not ideal for bonsai which is, after all, as much art as horticulture. For bonsai, seedlings or cuttings are preferred.

Norm
Ok, I had to research grafting to know what you're talking about there. My first reaction was to be peeved at the nursery who sold me this grafted tree without mentioning at any point that it's grafted. Seems less than honest to me. However, after more reading, it appears this is common practice with Japanese maple as they're virtually impossible to grow from seedlings or cuttings, and the seeds don't stay true to the parent tree. Is this correct?

I did read that Japanese maples respond really well to air layering. Would it work if I created an air layer above the grafting site? Would this yield a tree more aesthetically pleasing for bonsai? If I were to air layer, would it be best to do that this year, or should I wait a year and let the tree get bigger and stronger first?

Thanks for the insights!

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Lex,

Quite a few queries here and I'm at work now so I'll just touch on a few, more later.

The nursery did nothing wrong. Since you purchased a named variety (cultivar) it must be propagated asexually, either through cutting or grafting. Seedlings can make fine bonsai but it would be a genetic junk shoot, not a specific cultivar.

Layering; either air or nearer the ground, can remove the grafted portion and afford you the opportunity to create a more pleasing nebari. However, some plants may not be as vigorous on their own roots. I'm not sure about your species/cultivar in this regard. Regardless, I think I would wait until you have some experience under your belt, it can always be done in the future.

Bonsai Soils; The more shallow the pot the more important that your medium is able to drain well. Nurseries don't use such shallow pots as we do so that is one reason they do not use premium soils. Also, they usually pot their trees up frequently which avoids soil collapse which, as Tom alluded to, excludes air and is death to potted trees in the long term. There is also the cost and weight factors that would be prohibitive for a commercial enterprise but of little significance to us. Yes you can purchase ready made bonsai soils and this would probably be the best option for you right now. More expensive but much easier than locating, sifting and mixing the components to make your own.

Norm

tomc
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LexStarwalker wrote:Ok, I had to research grafting to know what you're talking about there. My first reaction was to be peeved at the nursery who sold me this grafted tree without mentioning at any point that it's grafted. Seems less than honest to me. However, after more reading, it appears this is common practice with Japanese maple as they're virtually impossible to grow from seedlings or cuttings, and the seeds don't stay true to the parent tree. Is this correct?

I did read that Japanese maples respond really well to air layering. Would it work if I created an air layer above the grafting site? Would this yield a tree more aesthetically pleasing for bonsai? If I were to air layer, would it be best to do that this year, or should I wait a year and let the tree get bigger and stronger first?

Thanks for the insights!
Lex it is possible to airlayer as a grower project at home. Its not really possible to airlayer an entire tree profitably for a commercial arbor-orchardist.

I would want my tree to be growing very vigorously for a couple years and several trials before begining at home.

If you only have a couple trees to pot up, I'd use cactus soil mix as a short cut. Its not that spendy. If you stay with bonsai the day of buying pre-mixed soil will pass soon.

One of my very first posts here was "I didn't mean to do this", which may explain some of my attitude around soil(s).

Once you have your tree growing well and (you) are used to handling it every single day then will be time for a work-around on an unatractive grafting scar.

Most often grafted trees are both very slow to strike roots, and do not reliably set true-to-type seed.

There are several (IMO) to-die-for hybrid trees of Hime provinance that I'd love to have. Bloodgood seed is viable. So I just keeps plugin' away with bloodgood.

LexStarwalker
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Thanks so much for all the help guys!

I'm going to take your advice and wait at least a year for the layering. That also gives me some time to think about the design of the tree. I was thinking about doing a layer right below the big fork in the tree so I could have a double trunk. Thoughts on this?

I read the articles on soil Gnome posted, and I'm pretty sure I can get the diatomaceous earth for the inorganic component. I had gotten a "bonsai potting kit" that includes soil, something that looks like clay, and lava rock. The soil looks a lot like the soil I have for cacti and succulents.

Should I be shooting for 70% inorganic, 30% organic? If so, will the bonsai soil I purchased work for the 30% organic, or should I go for composted bark or something else?

As far as food, I was looking at an organic fertilizer made from fish and seaweed. Is this what I should be using, or should I use a chemical fertilizer? If I go organic, will fertilizing once every 2-3 weeks at half strength be sufficient?

I read that during the growing season I should be pinching back new growth to 2 internodes per branch. Should I be doing that yet, or wait till next spring?

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Lex,
I had gotten a "bonsai potting kit" that includes soil, something that looks like clay, and lava rock. The soil looks a lot like the soil I have for cacti and succulents.
This would be preferable to the heavy soil you have shown previously. Sifting will help to exclude particles that are too small.
will the bonsai soil I purchased work for the 30% organic, or should I go for composted bark or something else?
If you are referring to the type f soil it is potted in now, then no. How well your medium drains will be determined by the size of the smallest particles. So for this reason I would not include the potting type soil in any future mix. Fir or Pine bark would be a better choice.
I read that during the growing season I should be pinching back new growth to 2 internodes per branch. Should I be doing that yet, or wait till next spring?
No pinching during the trunk development phase. Any pruning will only serve to slow growth.

Please read this article, in fact, since you seem willing to do the research, read them all.

https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm

Norm

LexStarwalker
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Thanks for the link. I'll read those articles too. The nice thing about this process taking years is it gives me plenty of time for research!

So, it looks like I should repot when I have a soil upgrade ready. I'll try 70% diatomaceous earth and 30% fir or pine bark, which I will screen to remove particles less than 2mm in size. Is this right?

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Lex,
So, it looks like I should repot when I have a soil upgrade ready. I'll try 70% diatomaceous earth and 30% fir or pine bark, which I will screen to remove particles less than 2mm in size. Is this right?
D.E. comes in various grades from dust like on up, choose carefully. Ratios depend upon numerous factors including your local climate and your work schedule, to name the most obvious.

If you intend to re-do the potting this year your window of opportunity is probably fading fast.

Norm

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All acer palmatums have a spring color, a summer color and an autumn color. Stay calm when all the cool shade of your tree's pallette fade. It comes with the tree.

And frankly its one of the reasons why this family of trees keeps dragging me back into caring for them...

LexStarwalker
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I wanted to post this weekend, but the forum was down, and then I've been really busy with school.

So I repotted my tree on Saturday. This is what I ended up using:

25% diatomaceous earth (I got it from NAPA as recommened in the post on using kittie litter)

25% red volcanic rock

50% medium sized orchid bark (composted fir)

I unfortnately don't have any screens or space to keep them, so instead I rinsed each component, a handful at a time, in a kitchen collander that has holes around 2mm in size until I'd gotten all the smaller particles and dust out.

I got as much of the original soil as I could out of the roots before putting the tree in the new pot. After potting, I watered until the water ran out the bottom clear. The soil drained really well!

I've got 2 chopsticks in the soil at different places so I can have a better idea when to water. Is it correct that I wait until the chopsticks are dry to water again? I just checked them again this afternoon, and they're both still damp.

The buds on the tree are opening and I'm seeing lots of pretty leaves.

Thanks for the advice about the foliage, Tomc. It's good to know not to worry when it changes colors.

I have a question about food now. The only balanced fertilizer I could find is a 10-10-10 that is in solid, granular form. The directions are all for gardens, flowerbeds and such, but nothing for a single potted tree. How much should I use? Can I add it to water and give it to the tree that way, or should I work it into the top of the soil as directed on the package?

It suggests 1.5 cups for a single shrub or bush, but I imagine that's for a full sized bush, and way too much. It suggests a tablespoon for a single potted vegetable plant, but wants you to put it on the bottom of the pot before planting.

I haven't used any yet. Are all 10-10-10 fertilizers at the same concentration, or all they all different? I'm holding off on feeding before I know exactly what to do because I don't want to kill my plant.

Thanks for all the help!

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Lex,
I have a question about food now. The only balanced fertilizer I could find is a 10-10-10 that is in solid, granular form. The directions are all for gardens, flowerbeds and such, but nothing for a single potted tree. How much should I use? Can I add it to water and give it to the tree that way, or should I work it into the top of the soil as directed on the package?

I haven't used any yet. Are all 10-10-10 fertilizers at the same concentration, or all they all different? I'm holding off on feeding before I know exactly what to do because I don't want to kill my plant.
I have never used this type of fertilizer in a pot. Slow release Osmocote incorporated in the mix works and takes off some of the pressure of regular fertilization. Another choice is any water soluble produce such as miracle grow. This should be available in any hardware or box store. All 10-10-10, if mixed according to instructions, are the same strength. If you dilute it at half the rate (half the water or spread twice as heavy) it becomes 20-20-20.

I have had some issues with the leaves of Japanese Maples showing some damage which may be due to chemical ferts or perhaps sun/wind burn. By fall the leaves tend to get a bit rough looking and I'm not entirely sure what to attribute that to.

There are organic ferts available. If you choose to go this route find something that is water soluble, not solids. I have used a product called tree-tone which is a dry organic but it tends to muck up my nice free draining soil.

Hope I have to 'muddied the water' too much.

Norm

LexStarwalker
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Thanks for the tips Norm. I guess I should have waited to get a liquid organic fertilizer, if only because it sounds easier to deal with.

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Just a quick update. :)

My maple is doing very well. All of the leaf buds have opened, and I'm seeing new growth at most of the nodes. He's also gotten a little taller! He seems to be liking the new soil and pot. He's gorgeous when the sun hits his red bark and green and red leaves.

Thanks for all the tips and pointers. I'll try to post some more pictures sometime in the near future.

tomc
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LexStarwalker wrote:Just a quick update. :)

My maple is doing very well. All of the leaf buds have opened, and I'm seeing new growth at most of the nodes. He's also gotten a little taller!
Some growers would wait a year, others might push on. If your just dieing for something to do, leave the first pair of new leaves and clip off the rest on each branch. This will tend to shorten the internode length. Making your tree more compact.

I would not leaf-cut this year.

LexStarwalker
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Would it be better to do that, or to wait a year to give the trunk time to thicken? The trunk is very thin still.

Thanks!

tomc
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Pick one. if your goal is to fatten up the trunk plant him to field. Acer palmatum is shallow rooted, but potted s-l-o-w-s things down.

LexStarwalker
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I live in an apartment, so unfortunately putting him in a field is not possible. However, he is in a 5 gallon bucket now, so hopefully he'll have enough room until next spring.

I think I will hold off till then and then decide what to do. It seems most the mistakes I've seen people make on these boards are due to impatience and jumping the gun. I'm content to wait until the next step becomes clear. :)

That said, if you really think it would be a good idea to prune the new growth as you described, I will take you at your word as you obviously have a lot more experience in this than I!

LexStarwalker
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These are pictures from a few weeks ago, he's got even more leaves now!

Image
008 by LexStarwalker, on Flickr

Image
009 by LexStarwalker, on Flickr

LexStarwalker
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These are from today.

Image
010 by LexStarwalker, on Flickr

Image
011 by LexStarwalker, on Flickr



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