carolc
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Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 2:27 am
Location: Poland OH.

screenIng bonsai pots

I'm just getting started and wondered if using a small bit of hot glue to hold the screening in place would be easier than wiring? Or is that a bad idea? cAROL :?:

tomc
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Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2011 2:52 am
Location: SE-OH USA Zone 6-A

Carol I'm almost never as dilligent as my advice. Your going to view photo spreads of the vent-hole screen wired down to its pot and the tree itself wired to the pot also. here's why.

I had a bird-squirrel-beastie of some kind upend one of my crabs this year. It was of course a tree I did not wire down.

Soil, screen, tree, and pot, all went each their own direction.

If you have no extra soil (for instance). Even if you catch this accident promptly. The outcome becomes less good the longer it takes to mend your trees needs.

So there (even if it is a little round the barn) may be ample reason why all the parts of top heavy trees-in-pots are all wired together.

You can get part of your need done with some hot-glue. But it won't keep the tree in the pot.

Dirt
Tell me what'cher using for bonsai soil please?

carolc
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Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 2:27 am
Location: Poland OH.

good advice on the wireing. thanks. as for potting soil----I've just only potted two plants so far. I've read so many different combinations on potting soil I didn't know where to begin. many of the combinations included materials I don't have access to. so this is what I started with.

a small amt. of a good quality potting soil
some spagnum moss
some finely shredded coconut bark
and some finely (very small) crushed lava rock

the lava rock is NOT so fine that it can get through the screen, I crushed it myself.
what do you think friend. Carol

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manofthetrees
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Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2010 7:14 pm
Location: west seneca ny

howdy carol,
I only add sphagnum moss to my tropicals (ficus) because they don't mind the water retention ,otherwise I would use it sparingly if at all, I'm not sure of the water retention properties of coconut bark ( usually pine bark is used) but this is what would be used to hold water in the soil , as for the lava rock you do want some sort of uniformity, for small trees 1/16 to 1/8 inch and larger trees 1/8 to 3/16 is about what you would want to acheive. dust should be sifted out also .
IMO unless you are dealing with more developed trees with fine root developement all you need to have is a well draining soil that retains moisture for a week +/- .soil that doesnt dry out easily will only breed problems .
all in all minus the sphagnum moss you should be fine with what you have ( in the past ive used topsoil,sand and pea gravel and stuff didnt die)

tomc
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Posts: 2661
Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2011 2:52 am
Location: SE-OH USA Zone 6-A

Carol,
Back home (NH) the localism feed store were Blue Seal. Here in Athens its Whites Mill. I get any oyster-shell (just a little) granite chicken sratch (grani-Grit) about half. Crushed bark mulch, is most of the remainder of my soil.

Peat, potting soil (loess), does have its use in some temperate trees soil. But if they aint azalea or bald cypress, be very sparing of soil components that have tiny particle size.

My eldest describes bonsai soil as: a bag of rocks with a little bark mulch added on. I think she's about right.

I don't think you need to repot, but your beta-built soil is going to have less fines in it.

Less fines, means your screened drainage ports don't clog as fast. Soil will percolate faster and your trees will stay happier.



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