Great, you paid attention in HS biology, unfortunately, HS biology is SEVERELY limited in what it teaches you. The "dwarf garden juniper" is Juniperus procumbens 'nana', which has an accepted USDA zoning from 4a through 9b, which encompasses ALL of Texas, and then some. FYI, "central" Texas would be anywhere from 7a to 8b, well within keeping for this tree. So, Texas does, indeed, share "indigenous characteristics". There is NO juniper species that grows well indoors. In greenhouses, perhaps, but not in homes. If your father has 30yo indoor junipers, I'd love to see them, because he would be the ONLY person I know of who specializes in indoor juniper keeping. Perhaps you can get him to give you the details of his setup so we can share it with the (quite literally) dozens upon dozens of people here (and thousands elsewhere) killing their junipers by keeping them indoors. Search this board. Seriously.
You seem not to understand the concepts of diseases, pathogens, parasites and predators in horticulture. Lanscape species are landscape species for a reason. They're RESISTANT, even moreso than natives many times over. Take a look at Lonicera, Euonymus, and a whole host of other landscape materials that "go wild" in environments that they "have not evolved to handle". The saving grace with landscape confiers is that a) they are slow growers and b) poor reproducers. Some, in fact, can not reproduce at all unless certain conditions are met (i.e. wildfires).
Acclimation for plants revolves more around humidity and moisture levels than temperature (provided they're kept zone appropriate). Moving a plant from 80Ã‚ÂºF to 100Ã‚ÂºF is NOT a problem. In fact, the temperature shifts from day to night that is has evolved to handle, and indeed may require, may be GREATER THAN THAT. You will not "send the plant into shock". I've been doing this for better than 2 decades, and the only time I've seen "shock" like this is when a) tropicals are moved out into too cool nights too soon, b) humidity levels are too low, or c) the tree is light tender, grown in shade, and moved to full sun (which has nothing to do with temperature).
Dumping ice water (although I have not tried it) is not a valid analogy. Assuming a summer temperature of 90Ã‚ÂºF, and an ice water temperatore of 35Ã‚ÂºF, you're talking about an INSTANTANEOUS drop of 55Ã‚ÂºF which is NOTHING like moving a plant from 75Ã‚ÂºF to 100Ã‚ÂºF (peak, remember, it's going to drop at night), you just have to manage watering and moisture, and possible keep it shaded.
Just so you know, junipers take VERY high humidity levels very well. They just don't like to have their feet wet. In fact, they can be grown very well in greenhouses with humidity levels well over 70%. What they do not like is the super low ambient humidity in homes, which is almost always less than 30%, and more often than not under 25%, somewhere around 20%. Now, you want a real shocker? That's drier than the Sahara, where MOST trees can not grow.
I think you may need to do more research on junipers. Juniperus procumbens 'nana' is from southern Japan, which is NOT dry and is, in fact, mild temperate. Kind of well, kind of like the less dry areas of, well, Texas.
By the very fact that you posted here LOOKING FOR ADVICE, ahem, soliciting advice, clearly defines that any advice given is NOT unsolicited. If you don't like the collective knowledge of, quite literally thousand and thousands of bonsai growers from all levels of experience, by all means, thumb your nose at "authority" petulantly. BUT, don't ask "how to speed the recovery" and expect ANYONE who knows ANYTHING valid about these trees and this species to blindly agree with what you're doing when what you're doing has blindly killed thousands upon thousands of trees in the past.
Nutrients will not help if the tree isn't absorbing them. Junipers kept indoors (particularly in air conditioned rooms) will not be able to take up enough nutrients to fuel the most rapid growth. So, over fertilizing might lead to root burn, especially if you're battling indoor dryness by overwatering, thereby causing root rot. It's a descending spiral into failure, really. But, by all means, try out the snake oils, they can't hurt when the conditions are all but certainly going to induce death.
For your "exposed roots", without seeing them, it's pretty much a given that any advice would be blind, which is something I think this thread needs to avoid right now. Strict facts are going to help, here, if anything will.
And to this last:
YÃ¢â‚¬â„¢all have been absolutely no help, as for putting it in the shade. With ambient temperature in the triple digits, it wouldnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t matter how much shade it was under, it would cook either way. And if thatÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s what I wanted it would be much more efficient to just stick in the oven on bake. So unless somebody has a suggestion on the proper fertilizer ratio, or any other nutrient that might help my plant recover, then you are of no use to me and IÃ¢â‚¬â„¢m just going to keep doing what IÃ¢â‚¬â„¢m doing.
Well, really, isn't that what you were going to do anyway? If it's so glaringly obvious that we're ALL off our rockers here, how is it, do you think, that we've helped SO many people?
Oh, and word of advice, you probably do NOT want to go on to specialized bonsai sites with this thread, especially not with the sophomoric attitude and redwood sized chip on your shoulder. Oh, you'll get the same advice, but it's entirely probable that your thread will be locked and your account will be banned.
Good luck "doing it your way".