Juniper Bonsai Care in Hot Weather

[Enuff Sed]

A Little About Myself

Hello everyone, my real name is Alex so feel free to call me by my name. I'm a 20 year old from Texas....GO LONGHORNS...sorry. I work at UPS and go to school at the local University majoring in Business Management. I got my Juniper as a Christmas present from my sister & brother in law. I immediately fell in love with it's stress relieving capabilities and overall energy it gives off. It's 3 years old and I'm kinda new to this type of plant. Being from Texas I'm used to tomatoes, squash, corn and other Texas native plants. So naturally I have some questions .

My Tree

I've been doing some research online and have been taking care of my bonsai accordingly. My tree is by my window seal on a stand that recieves a little over 4 hours of sunlight and gets a nice breeze through out the day, I snip off any baby branches (not parent) that are pointing down and any brownish leafs, water every morning with a mister until the water is coming through the holes, once a week I submerge the tree to the soil until bubbling stops (recently started ) and is just recovering from a spider mite infestation (I took care of those little critters though ) Anyways, I will have pics up by the end of the day hopefully for y'all to enjoy

My Questions
1. The city I live in gets to about 100F+, never above 106 F, Is that too how for my juniper??

2. Little branches are falling off about 1/2" in length...Is my tree dying?!?!
Will Post Pics

3. My tree is 3 years old is it too soon to replant?

4. How much do I cut off with out effecting the tree negatively? Since December one parent branch has grown out a little over 3", and I feel the plant is having trouble supporting it. Will Post Pics

5. Being 3 years old is it too soon to Change the soil??

6. I know I'm Supposed to "pinch" parts of the plant...but not to sure what this means...you don't pinch tomatoe plants

Thanks in advance and I hope to learn more from everyone, aka more experienced than me . Again Thank you and I look forward to some cool discussions and a healthier tree. Any Suggestions or tips will be greatly appreciated!!

Alex

[ynot]

Alex,

Welcome,

Quick question:
Are you certain that you have a juniper? [As they have needles and you mentioned browning 'leafs'. This could be caused by [IE] trimming with scissors as that will cause browning.]

Also Please eliminate submersion as a regular watering practice, It is almost unheard of for [IE] any experienced bonsai practitioner to suggest using it on a regular basis.

Photos would be helpful,

My tree is by my window seal on a stand that recieves a little over 4 hours of sunlight and gets a nice breeze through out the day, I snip off any baby branches (not parent) that are pointing down and any brownish leafs, water every morning with a mister until the water is coming through the holes,

'Snipping' [Provided you have a Juni] Is the reason for the tips browning.

Watering every morning is not called for- unless it needs it.

Do you check to see if the tree requires moisture? Or do you simply water it?
Watering cannot be put on a schedule, You must check every day to determine if the tree needs water. You only water when it needs it. Dig down a knuckle or two into the pot to see if it is still moist [Not soaking wet- Moist.] if it is not moist it needs water.

No need to water with a mister either, The tree has no idea what container it was in . Watering until the water is flowing freely from the drainage holes is appropriate. When you have some free draining soil this will be more easily accomplished.

1. The city I live in gets to about 100F+, never above 106 F, Is that too how for my juniper??

Thats hot, No doubt. I think with adequate protection your tree will survive.

2. Little branches are falling off about 1/2" in length...Is my tree dying?!?!
Will Post Pics

Pics will help.
To check for signs of life simply scratch the bark of the tree [down to the cambium layer] in an unobtrusive spot. If it is alive, You should see a pale green color. Any other color [Brown, Tan etc...] is not a sign of life:(.

3. My tree is 3 years old is it too soon to replant?

5. Being 3 years old is it too soon to Change the soil??

Same question, And the answer is... No, I am willing to bet that the soil is of a very organic loamy fine structure [Fine = small particles which is not what you want] a looser more inorganic potting media would be beneficial. New soil would benefit your tree immensely

See these links for a bit about soil: https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3422
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3423
See [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3530]this[/url]thread for a bit more about proper bonsai soil.

4. How much do I cut off with out effecting the tree negatively? Since December one parent branch has grown out a little over 3", and I feel the plant is having trouble supporting it. Will Post Pics

Potentially, This is because your root system is weak. Again, Better soil will help w/ this. Please post some more pics.

6. I know I'm Supposed to "pinch" parts of the plant...but not to sure what this means...you don't pinch tomatoe plants Laughing

See the bottom of this page: https://www.bonsai4me.com/Basics/Basics_Pruning3.html
More about pinching/pruning: https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/pruning.htm

I told you it was a long reply...lol

ynot

[Enuff Sed]

Alex,

Welcome,

Quick question:
Are you certain that you have a juniper? [As they have needles and you mentioned browning 'leafs'. This could be caused by [IE] trimming with scissors as that will cause browning.]

Ya it'a a Juniper, just used leafs as an expression...sorry

Also Please eliminate submersion as a regular watering practice, It is almost unheard of for [IE] any experienced bonsai practitioner to suggest using it on a regular basis.

Will Do

'Snipping' [Provided you have a Juni] Is the reason for the tips browning. Watering every morning is not called for- unless it needs it.Do you check to see if the tree requires moisture? Or do you simply water it?

I use Prunning clipers to snip them...what should I do it with?? I stick a tooth pick in to see if it needs watering, and ya it does need it almost every morning.

Same question, And the answer is... No, I am willing to bet that the soil is of a very organic loamy fine structure [Fine = small particles which is not what you want] a looser more inorganic potting media would be beneficial. New soil would benefit your tree immensely

What soil would you recommend??

[ynot]

Ya it'a a Juniper, just used leafs as an expression...sorry

It's ok, Just making sure is all.

I use Prunning clipers to snip them...what should I do it with?? I stick a tooth pick in to see if it needs watering, and ya it does need it almost every morning.

Ok, The clippers are [one] reason it's browning. Did you read the links I posted about pinching?
You don't cut junipers- You pinch them.

Are you dipping the toothpick to check?
If so, A more effective/accurate way to check for moisture is to leave a chopstick [Not as good as a finger IMO..] stuck in the soil at all times [Halfway between the pot wall and the tree] and pull it daily to check, The color change is easily noticeable between the dry and moist portions of the stick. This easily determines the level of moisture within the pot.

What soil would you recommend??

Well I make my own, I suggest you read the stickys I linked to [And the links within them also].
They will help to familiarize yourself with the properties in good bonsai soil. Do not use potting soil or garden soil at all it is not appropriate for bonsai, After you read the stickys and look at the pictures you will notice a significant difference between proper bonsai 'soil' and what you normally think of as soil.

We can get more into soil after you read a bit:)

ynot

[Enuff Sed]

Ok, The clippers are [one] reason it's browning. Did you read the links I posted about pinching?
You don't cut junipers- You pinch them.

Ok...lose the clipers...got it

Are you dipping the toothpick to check?
If so, A more effective/accurate way to check for moisture is to leave a chopstick [Not as good as a finger IMO..] stuck in the soil at all times [Halfway between the pot wall and the tree] and pull it daily to check, The color change is easily noticeable between the dry and moist portions of the stick. This easily determines the level of moisture within the pot.

lose the tp, get a chop stick and leave it in instead of diping...check

Ok so far here is what I'm reading from you stickies...correct me if I'm wrong

1. Climate plays a huge roll in soil composition...especially humidity will contribute to what kind of moisture holding materials are used.

2. Large coarse particles that allow the plant to "breath", drain quickly (your vid), but still hold enough moisture and nutrients considering the climate.

3. Misting should only be done for cleaning, as misting can be bad due to water seeping into the soil and leaving the roots airless.

4. Feeder roots = good storage roots = bad ???

So basically there is no universal soil, it has to be custom made for the climate I live in...correct? Thing is my climate changes, it could be humid one day and dry the next. I'll have to keep a close eye on it I guess.

[Gnome]

Alex,

Hello and welcome to the forum. I see that Ynot has taken the time to get you started on what can become a lifelong journey. A few things, in no particular order.

3. Misting should only be done for cleaning, as misting can be bad due to water seeping into the soil and leaving the roots airless.

There is usually nothing inherently detrimental about misting, I don't think Ynot implied that. It is not a very effective method to water the your trees soil though. A watering can with a fine rosette will make quick work of watering. Some might argue that misting, especially outdoors is ineffective and a waste of time due to air circulation evaporating the water quickly. I'll say this since you are growing a Juniper, in nature Junipers gather much of their moisture through their foliage so there is no reason not to mist if you are so inclined.

4. Feeder roots = good storage roots = bad ???

Sort of, your tree might disagree if it were able. In order to get the tree into a shallow bonsai pots the fine feeder roots are retained as they are the ones that actually gather moisture and nutrients. There is also the question of exposed surface roots or nebari. These are older, thicker roots that are retained in order to give the impression of stability and age.

So basically there is no universal soil, it has to be custom made for the climate I live in...correct?

Yes, but keep in mind that any decent bonsai soil will be head and shoulders above the soil most mass produced bonsai are in. Furthermore, your watering practices can help in dealing with less than perfect soil. In other words it is the interplay between soil composition and watering practices that will determine your success.

You might find this of interest since they are located in your area. [url]https://www.dallasbonsai.com/bonsai_tree_care_index.html[/url]

Norm

[ynot]

Alex,
Just a few more comments [Even though Gnome speaks fluent 'ynot-ese' ]

3. Misting should only be done for cleaning, as misting can be bad due to water seeping into the soil and leaving the roots airless.

There is usually nothing inherently detrimental about misting, I don't think Ynot implied that. It is not a very effective method to water the your trees soil though. A watering can with a fine rosette will make quick work of watering. Some might argue that misting, especially outdoors is ineffective and a waste of time due to air circulation evaporating the water quickly. I'll say this though since you are growing a Juniper, in nature Junipers gather much of their moisture through their leaves so there is no reason not to mist if you are so inclined.

Absolutely true
Me included, Having said that I admit to doing it. As mentioned it is not inherently detrimental and has benefits indoors, Outdoors said benefits are limited in their duration [And ultimately their effectiveness IMO]. True also IMO.

4. Feeder roots = good storage roots = bad ???

Sort of, your tree might disagree if it were able. In order to get the tree into a shallow bonsai pots the fine feeder roots are retained as they are the ones that actually gather moisture and nutrients. There is also the question if exposed surface roots or nebari. These are older, thicker roots that are retained in order to give the impression of stability and age.

It is not quite so black and white as that but the feeder roots are a better utilization of space within the pot [Where space is an issue as Gnome noted.] This is the root [So to speak ] of what I was speaking to.

So basically there is no universal soil, it has to be custom made for the climate I live in...correct? Thing is my climate changes, it could be humid one day and dry the next. I'll have to keep a close eye on it I guess.

Yes, but keep in mind that any decent bonsai soil will be head and shoulders above the soil most mass produced bonsai are in. Furthermore, your watering practices can help in dealing with less than perfect soil. In other words it is the interplay between soil composition and watering practices that will determine your success.

Sadly, Nope.
Everyones climate changes, There will be many versions of soil that your tree will 'survive' in. But some will be far more effective and help your tree to thrive. Gnome is correct in stating that a home [or commercial bonsai] mix will be far and away better than what the mass bonsai are potted in.

1. Climate plays a huge roll in soil composition...especially humidity will contribute to what kind of moisture holding materials are used.

Yes,
Another aspect to consider it is that the composition of your soil contributes to the climate within your pot.

It is not so much 'what kind' of moisture holding materials you use as what % of your soil is moisture retentive.
[It is How much as opposed to what kind]

This refers to the second half of the above. Species of the tree is an issue also as some species prefer a dryer existence, Others like more moisture.

Lots of mixes will work but sometimes if your mix retains to much moisture you risk root problems and have to watch the frequency of your watering.

If it retains too little moisture this can be solved by watering more often but you end up with a high maintenance tree.

2. Large coarse particles that allow the plant to "breath", drain quickly (your vid), but still hold enough moisture and nutrients considering the climate.

Particle size is the most overlooked aspect of bonsai soil when starting out IMO- The ratio of inorganic to organic materials in the pot will determine it's moisture holding properties.

Also notice that it is not really required for the soil to hold massive quantities of nutrients as a regular fert program continually feeds your tree. The loose well draining properties of good bonsai soil let the frequent watering wash away excesses and prevent any buildup from frequent fertilization. You would be surprised how often people misunderstand this aspect of bonsai.

BTW- I am glad you watched the video [Did the speed surprise you? I see surprisingly few comments on that actually. I truly doubt most people watch it.]
The soil that you can see in the pictures in the stickys is not a top dressing btw, It is the contents of the pot the entire way down.

Hope this is not just a huge mess...

Pictures please

ynot