I've had a chinese elm bonsai for about 4 years now. And over this winter it was dropped all it's leaves and produced warty patches on it's bark. It has also had some bark peeling but I understand this is typical as the tree ages. The tree also has a white/yellow fluffy mold growing on the soil which first arose after being an idiot about watering it (Filling the drip tray and letting it sit. Doh!) but it persists after going to a more judicious method of watering. The tree has one last green leaf and it is beginning to shrivel. Also, the branches of the tree itself appear shriveled, with it being the worst at the top of the tree.
Any ideas on what is going on here? Is my tree a complete loss?
[img]https://I.imgur.com/iX5Kx.jpg[/img]
(Sorry about the terrible quality of the photo, but you can still see some of the warty bark and mold.)
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SonicCephalopod
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TomM
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Elms are not "indoor trees" (tropical). That leads me to the question - have you been keeping it indoors for 4 years?
Elms are deciduous. They lose their leaves in Fall - go dormant through the Winter months - and 'leaf-out' again in Spring.
If kept indoors they will not go dormant properly. Their life cycle gets screwed up and they will eventually die.
As for the watering issue if root rot sets in, and it doesn't happen overnight, it doesn't rectify itself when returning to correct practices. It will kill a potted tree. Can't say that root rot is your problem but it would not surprise me.
Has the tree ever been re-potted? Given fresh fast draining bonsai soil? Root pruned? So many things to consider. A Chinese elm bonsai has needs as a TREE. If not cared for properly they will die.
Elms are deciduous. They lose their leaves in Fall - go dormant through the Winter months - and 'leaf-out' again in Spring.
If kept indoors they will not go dormant properly. Their life cycle gets screwed up and they will eventually die.
As for the watering issue if root rot sets in, and it doesn't happen overnight, it doesn't rectify itself when returning to correct practices. It will kill a potted tree. Can't say that root rot is your problem but it would not surprise me.
Has the tree ever been re-potted? Given fresh fast draining bonsai soil? Root pruned? So many things to consider. A Chinese elm bonsai has needs as a TREE. If not cared for properly they will die.
Last edited by TomM on Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Scratch the bark on the tree with your fingernail, If it's green underneath, the tree is still alive. If it's not...well then the tree is dead. You Have a long road ahead of you to get this tree healthy again. First of all, get it outside (after the threat of frost has passed). Reduce watering and keep it in the shade until you see new growth...then re-pot it with fast draining bonsai soil. Inspect the roots and cut off all of the dead slimy ones with a sharp,clean instrument. Then once again, leave it alone and let it rest in the shade for a month or so. Then once it gets used to it's new soil and cleaned up roots it can be fertilized..but about half strength.
Leave it outside from now on. It will go dormant next fall and start fresh next spring.
Don't wire anything or trim anything until next year. Just let it recover.
When watering this tree. stick a chopstick in the soil for a few minutes, if it comes out clean, water it. If it's damp...don't water it. Never let the bottom of the pot sit in water.
Leave it outside from now on. It will go dormant next fall and start fresh next spring.
Don't wire anything or trim anything until next year. Just let it recover.
When watering this tree. stick a chopstick in the soil for a few minutes, if it comes out clean, water it. If it's damp...don't water it. Never let the bottom of the pot sit in water.
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SonicCephalopod
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Thanks so much for the feedback folks! The tree usually is outside from mid May to October depending on weather. It was repotted, root trimmed, and given fresh soil last May.
Luckily it does still show green under the bark and our freakish weather here this year means I feel comfortable getting it outside immediately. Usually this time in March it's hovering in the low 40's and refreezing at night. It's been sunny and in the 70's all week. ^.^
One last question; If I get a new bonsai (Thinking a fukien tea.) Should I keep it isolated from the chinese elm and the tools used on it? I'm still worried about parasites and disease.
Luckily it does still show green under the bark and our freakish weather here this year means I feel comfortable getting it outside immediately. Usually this time in March it's hovering in the low 40's and refreezing at night. It's been sunny and in the 70's all week. ^.^
One last question; If I get a new bonsai (Thinking a fukien tea.) Should I keep it isolated from the chinese elm and the tools used on it? I'm still worried about parasites and disease.
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TomM
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Sonic,
About the elm : "outside from mid May to October" and then into the house is the problem. That's how you would care for a tropical tree, not a temperate or hardy variety. A tree that needs dormancy needs to be 'cold' for the Winter - like outdoors. A general rule to remember is 40/40. Forty days below forty degrees.
This rule varies somewhat for certain varieties and for your location. Sheltered but unheated sheds, garages and such usually suffice but with a little snow cover can provide occasional moisture.
"Usually this time in March it's hovering in the low 40's and refreezing at night". Ahh, perfect for elms.
On fukien tea - hardly anyone here would recommend this tree. It is the number #1 "insect magnet"! Scale being the biggest problem. They need more light than most people can provide.
For indoors you should consider ficus (fig), bougainvillea, natal plum or mini-jade. Clean your tools with alcohol.
About the elm : "outside from mid May to October" and then into the house is the problem. That's how you would care for a tropical tree, not a temperate or hardy variety. A tree that needs dormancy needs to be 'cold' for the Winter - like outdoors. A general rule to remember is 40/40. Forty days below forty degrees.
This rule varies somewhat for certain varieties and for your location. Sheltered but unheated sheds, garages and such usually suffice but with a little snow cover can provide occasional moisture.
"Usually this time in March it's hovering in the low 40's and refreezing at night". Ahh, perfect for elms.
On fukien tea - hardly anyone here would recommend this tree. It is the number #1 "insect magnet"! Scale being the biggest problem. They need more light than most people can provide.
For indoors you should consider ficus (fig), bougainvillea, natal plum or mini-jade. Clean your tools with alcohol.