air layering

[gbhunter77]

I have a wonderful Japanese maple. However the point where the J.maple was grafted in is pretty far up the trunk. Would air layering work or should I use another maple and graft a branch in. Also if air layering is a good idea, when should it be done.

[Fig3825]

I'm not an expert, but I successfully air layered a crape myrtle this season. Based on my research, Jap Maples are tough to propogate by layering but it IS possible. I haven't done it myself, so I can't say either way.

I think you want to do your layers by mid summer and anticipate planting the layered limbs early fall. That is what I plan to do with my myrtle layers.

The key is to allow enough roots to grow inside your wrap that the new limb/plant can sustain itself when cut from the tree and planted on it's own.

I have three layers still on our crape myrtle. I will be cutting them off and planting them here in the next two weeks. They have been on the tree for about 10 weeks. All three have nice roots. The smallest branch used was around 1/4" and the largest was 3/4". Since I haven't planted them yet, I can't say whether or not my methodology is successful or not.

[kdodds]

When considering air-layering a graft, you have to consider why it was grafted in the first place. These maples are not branch-grafted to "fill out" or anything like that. They are grafted on to hardier root stock for a reason. The ungrafted top half generally has a very poor, very weak root system. You might think, "Well, the roots will be in a pot, not the ground, so why not?" But, the fact of the matter is that winter is a lot tougher on potted trees than it is on in-ground trees (barring perma-frost, in-ground trees benefit from geothermal heating). IF I were to try something like this, I would air-layer a less important branch in early spring and plan on keeping the tree itself in a heated (30-40ºF) greenhouse winter-round.

[gbhunter77]

2 things I could air layer the grafted trunk to shorten it(risky could kill the tree).
Or I have another maple(not japanese but also grafted) cut it of below the graft line and graft on a larger branch from the japanesr maple...if I were to take that route what time of year is best?

[TomM]

Whooa. Think about what you are asking.

Forget (for now) about the time of year.

If you are trying to create a tree that is partially Japanese maple (grafted onto hardy root stock - but still Japanese maple) and partly some different kind of maple (but not Japanese) grafted onto it what is it going to be? It will have different size leaves, different colors, budding out at different times, different bark (color and texture) different growth rares, different hardiness.

Why do this? What's the point. It would probably die anyway.

That's not what bonsai is.

[tomc]

I have airlayered branches of Japan maples successfuly. I have girdled very hearty sugar maples and re=potted them into a deeper pot--in effect a total root replacement, successfuly.

But I would not try one till after leaf out in the spring. A-n-d it didn't work every single time for me.

I'm just sayin'

[gbhunter77]

I will air layer it just a few inches below the graft. That wsy I still get the strong roots and can fit it ino a pot. Once the leaves fall off I will prune it back about45%. Come spring(May) I will air layer this badboy. If I can find ready maple stock that is comparible I will consider a graft or 2. My parens have a big old Japanese maple in their yard. I can get grafts from there.

[TomM]

Do you have a heated greenhouse, as kdodds mentioned? Any comments about his post? Read above.

[gbhunter77]

No green house here. But I will air layer the root stock the tree is attaached to not the tree it self. The graft is very close to the top of the tree so there is really no choice if I want to air layer the trunk. Plus like he said the maple it self has weak roots so there is no point in trying to air layer a branch. I hope I can find a root stock I can graft to as I rather do that. I can also us a heated mat I usually cover the pot in pine bark and the tree with burlap to prevent burn.

[Gnome]

gbhunter77,

Probably the most significant reason for grafting A. palmatum would be to continue the cultivar line. Cutivars cannot be propagated via seedlings and A. p cuttings can be difficult to root, leaving grafting as the most commercially viable alternative. Since you have all winter to decide perhaps you can do a little more research into the cultivar you are working on. You really would be better off, from a aesthetic standpoint, if you avoided the graft.

Brent Walston writes:

Most cultivars for bonsai are better on their own roots than as grafts due to uneven growth rates between the understock and the scion...We find that most cultivars on their own roots are quite vigorous, often exceeding the growth rate of grafted plants in the early years.

These remarks are from the plant catalog at Evergreen Gardenworks. About one third down this page.
https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/acer.htm

Norm

[gbhunter77]

I do have J.maple seeds but I heard these take decades. I just recovered from stage 4 Hodgekins. ..And lately it feels like I might be embattled again but this time the odds are going to favor the opponent . I always wanted a maple bonsai that I made. I did not want to just buy one done. If time and other things allow I will try to air layer the plant above the graft. I will start the seeds too...but ill see how long it wil take. I have one I made and its almost done. Just need to wait till spring and I can do another heavy root cut. This one is blue star juniper. Sorry if I have been posting so much. I just want to stay busy. You guys are a wealth of information. Thanks for all the help.
God willing I will get to see the final plant.

[TomM]

Sorry to hear of your illness - and I'm sure that all here share the concern as we pray for good health. Don't be sorry for "posting so much". Yes - stay busy with your trees and future projects. And hopefully the help offered will bring you good results.

[tomc]

I had my best luck starting a Japan maple from seed doing one of the following.

Taking a volunteer seedling and promptly replanting it for the first few years ina gallon pot. Or.

Planting seed directly from the tree to quick draining soil. Any shallow pan with bottom drainage will do. The "but" here and I cannot stress this too strongly is "direct from the tree to dirt". Dried japan maple seeds have a nearly 0.0% gemination rate.

This year is the first year I have collected seedling Japan maple seedlings in many years. Mine stayed in oversize paper-white (daffodil) pans or to feild three to seven years, before any real training besides alternate year leaf cutting and a little top pruning to enourage low & spreading growth.

Yes, leaf cutting does slow growth, getting a major coppicing to heal over takes longer IMO.