Polistes
Full Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 7:48 pm
Location: Minnesota

Forgive me for I have sinned

LOL anyways here is what I have done to my umbrella tree, I think I pruned/defoliated a little to much. I also trimmed back the rootball too.

I want my tree to be an informal upright/broom style tree but don't really know how to get it to shrink down. Its actually a little to tall as it stands.

[img]https://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh195/Polistes/100_4620.jpg[/img]

Top left:

[img]https://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh195/Polistes/100_4616.jpg[/img]
Top Right
[img]https://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh195/Polistes/100_4617.jpg[/img]

So what should I do to get it more compact now and get it going along the broom style. And if I want to shorten it further how do I do so without lopping off its head. Input is very welcome. And how does this particular tree make branches and grow? This whole art is a bit new to me.

And what is the tree going to do from here growth wise? Knowing how it determines it send up new branches/leaves would be well. Its growth pattern if you will. At least what its going to do in response to the pruning of some leaves and branches.

Its currently soaking there since it got repotted as well, thats not its main display location.

User avatar
Gnome
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 5122
Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A

Polistes,

Well, there's good news and bad news. First the bad news, I have serious doubts about using this species as a broom style tree. Informal upright is more like it.

The good news is that the plant should respond well and recover. I don't think you understand the habit of this plant yet though. The 'branches' that you left in hopes of sprouting new leaves are not actually branches but leaf stems. As such, they are going to dry up and fall off, but don't panic. It is simply a misunderstanding of the nature if this plant which produces compound leaves. New shoots will emerge from the bases of the leaf stems after they fall away.

There are several threads, including one by myself, in the gallery area of our bonsai section, take a look and I think thing will be a little clearer. Pay attention to comments about removing terminal buds this is important when defoliating this species.

Norm

Norm

Polistes
Full Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 7:48 pm
Location: Minnesota

Well to be honest I want this style
[img]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ed/Schefflera_arboricola.jpg[/img]

It looks broom like to me.

I will also be needing to cut it down a few inches. Hopefully when I get a better grasp on how this particular species works I can turn it into something nice.

[img]https://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh195/Polistes/100_4621.jpg[/img]
As for that pic its not in the terrarium yet, it has to shrink first. I don't know how to go about it. Also the pot itself would be buried but even so its too large.(The crabapple there is doing fine btw but I was planning on rotating the two the umbrella for the crabapples dormancy. Then when it wakes up the umbrella goes back out.)

Here you can see another issue, even with the pot being buried this tree as it is is way to tall, I need to shrink it, if thats even possible, but for now I think the best course is to let it recover from its first pruning bout. :) Also as you know, and as I stated in the first post I indeed do not yet understand how this plant functions yet ;)

Here are the other links to my threads that may help you see what I am trying to do. :)

The crab apple:
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25682

The setup.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24947

User avatar
Gnome
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 5122
Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A

Polistes,
Here you can see another issue, even with the pot being buried this tree as it is is way to tall, I need to shrink it, if thats even possible, but for now I think the best course is to let it recover from its first pruning bout.
I agree, had you not re-potted it I would suggest that you prune it back very hard. Since the roots were disturbed that might not be prudent right now. An intact rootball would have ensured a good response from a drastic shortening, but to be safe now I would not suggest it.

Norm

Polistes
Full Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 7:48 pm
Location: Minnesota

Gnome wrote:Polistes,
Here you can see another issue, even with the pot being buried this tree as it is is way to tall, I need to shrink it, if thats even possible, but for now I think the best course is to let it recover from its first pruning bout.
I agree, had you not re-potted it I would suggest that you prune it back very hard. Since the roots were disturbed that might not be prudent right now. An intact rootball would have ensured a good response from a drastic shortening, but to be safe now I would not suggest it.

Norm
Indeed I am going to have to leave it be for now. But how would I go about cutting it back, just pick a spot abvove the lowest leafe stem and cut? The ares where there are still good leaf bunches is where I would cut, just slightly above them, though not for six months at least possible a year.

[img]https://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh195/Polistes/100_4621-1.jpg[/img]

Basically I would cut it where the red line is.

User avatar
Gnome
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 5122
Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A

Polistes,

Yes, or even lower, branches will emerge at the location of previous leaf stems. The root system must be strong though or you risk failure. I do have one caveat to include; I only have experience with the normal (non variegated) variety of this plant. Sometimes the variegated forms (in general) are not as vigorous as the normal, green, ones. A little more research is in order. luckily, as you surmised, you will not be taking this step anytime soon.

Norm

Polistes
Full Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 7:48 pm
Location: Minnesota

Indeed the varigated form is actually infected with a virus, while it said to be harmless the plant IS weakened and not as robust as a normal one. I am kicking myself for not thinking that the varigation was due to a virus and not simply genetics.

User avatar
Big Vine
Senior Member
Posts: 156
Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 8:31 am
Location: Florida - Zone 8b

I strongly encourage you to visit the site of David Fukumoto...
Scroll down on the main page and look for the section on 'Training True Indoor Bonsai,' which should be of particular interest and probably the first place to start.
https://www.fukubonsai.com/

David is a Hawaiian bonsai nursery owner and probably has the most extensive experience in working with Schefflera arboricola as bonsai than anyone else in the world.

The simplified/abbreviated version of what I've learned/interpreted from his site...
In a nutshell, you will need to allow the plant to grow out quite vigorously for some time (I recommend at least one growing season), which means it will get quite tall and wild/out-of-control looking. After this period of wild growth, you then chop down fairly low on the trunk to promote the emergence of buds/branches near the base of the tree. This 'reduction-building' process can be repeated as deemed necessary, but the key is to allow the tree to keep growing healthy and vigorously for an adequate period of time before chopping down low.

There is much more to it than that, but you'll need to find out for yourself!
PLEASE, please do the research before you attempt any sort of drastic 'reduction-building' on your tree. This species responds well if it is healthy, but you could very well end up killing it if the tree isn't as healthy as it should be and/or you aren't quite sure what you're doing. ; )

I have a few Schefflera projects in the works, which I have posted about more extensively over on the Bonsai Vault forum, in case you're interested.
-Sean



Return to “BONSAI FORUM”