I'm new to the art of Bonsai here and have had a Portulacaria afra for a few years now and would like to start pruning it better and take clippings to create some new ones as well.
What is a good soil mixture for this type?
What books are good resources for this type of Bonsai?
What website(s) have good pruning advice for this type of Bonsai?
Will this type tolerate direct sunlight after having only limited amounts of direct sunlight for two years?
What styles of Bonsai work best through pruning and wiring for this type?
What soil type is best for clippings to create a new one (and how long to use this soil type)?
What size pot to use (and for how long) for new trees from clippings?
Does anyone know if there are still any retail stores in the Milwaukee, WI area that sell Bonsai supplies? I recently went to where one should have been that was listed on the Milwaukee Bonsai Society website and it was all closed up.
Thanks,
brianna
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creamysbrianna
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Gnome
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Brianna,
1. A coarse free draining mix is suitable for this species. A mix including a fired clay product, (Tuface, Haydite), lava rock with a little organic material mixxed in, usually pine bark.
2. I know of no book that deals exclusively with this species but Pual Lesniewicz has a book, "Bonsai in your home", that deals many species, icluding Portulacaria, suitable as indoor bonsai.
3. The moderator has informed me that linking to other websites is frowned upon, I suggest that you do a google search on it.
4. Full sun is acceptable, even preferable for this species, although part shade will do if that is all you can manage. A gradual move may be in order though since your plant has been in low light conditions. I take mine out each summer and they are in full sun right now.
5. Probably informal upright. I shape mine exclusively by clip and grow and have never wired them. Prune long shoots back to 1 or 2 pairs of leaves. If you keep in mind that buds will form at leaf axils you can direct future growth by choosing wether you cut bak to a vertical or a horizontal pair.I know of a person on another site who wires Jades with good luck though.
6. Use the same soil for cuttings as you do mature plants.
7. I usually start my cuttings in four or six packs recycled from purchased nursery plants. Small, two inch, pots will be adequate for cuttings for several years after that.
Norm
1. A coarse free draining mix is suitable for this species. A mix including a fired clay product, (Tuface, Haydite), lava rock with a little organic material mixxed in, usually pine bark.
2. I know of no book that deals exclusively with this species but Pual Lesniewicz has a book, "Bonsai in your home", that deals many species, icluding Portulacaria, suitable as indoor bonsai.
3. The moderator has informed me that linking to other websites is frowned upon, I suggest that you do a google search on it.
4. Full sun is acceptable, even preferable for this species, although part shade will do if that is all you can manage. A gradual move may be in order though since your plant has been in low light conditions. I take mine out each summer and they are in full sun right now.
5. Probably informal upright. I shape mine exclusively by clip and grow and have never wired them. Prune long shoots back to 1 or 2 pairs of leaves. If you keep in mind that buds will form at leaf axils you can direct future growth by choosing wether you cut bak to a vertical or a horizontal pair.I know of a person on another site who wires Jades with good luck though.
6. Use the same soil for cuttings as you do mature plants.
7. I usually start my cuttings in four or six packs recycled from purchased nursery plants. Small, two inch, pots will be adequate for cuttings for several years after that.
Norm
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creamysbrianna
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Norm its nice to see someone finally reply to my topic, I have found it difficult to find any reliable/consistant information on the internet since I posted this. There is not a lot of info availabel on this specises yet, I know it is fairly new to the bonsai community as being fully accepted still.
Thanks for the info though.
It would be nice to see any other people know about this plant or who have grown/trained this plant ot post here as well.
Thanks,
brianna
Thanks for the info though.
It would be nice to see any other people know about this plant or who have grown/trained this plant ot post here as well.
Thanks,
brianna
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creamysbrianna
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RcCalais, is this a Jade plant or a Dwarf Jade plant I ask this since they are two different plants and are not related until you get up eleven levels above the species level at the Division level.
Jade plant is Crasula Ovata
Dwarf Jade is Portulacaria Afra
The Jade plant has leaves that typ. get to be about 1" long by 5/8" wide with a long taper going back down to the stem. There is constantly a red edge on the leaves of this plant as well. Most of the leaves are a light green
As for Dwarf Jade its bark is reddish-brown in color. The leaves are mostly dark green, and the young leaves will have a pink-reddish edge to them. They tend to be not much more than 1/2 wide by 3/8" long, sometimes having a indent running the length of the leaf. Also, the leaves may form a heart shape but does not happen too often. They don't taper have a long taper like the Jade plant but a short one. They stems will be red where they are newest and turn green as you go back to where the stem spilt from the secondary or tridary branch.
I'm sure if you are able to identify which plant you have that would help others out greatly. There is tons of info on the Jade Plant vs. Dwarf Jade, use the taxonomy name I gave you earlier to get the best and most relevant search results on search engines. There are plenty of pictures of both plants that if you look closely enough and think about the shape and color of the leaves you will be able to determine which one you have.
If does turn you have a Jade plant I would recommend you start a new thread with the subject of Jade plant to get the better response to your questions.
Not many people know about the Dwarf Jade/Portulacaria Afra, which will limit how many people see this thread. Also, try posting on multiple forums. that's how I was able to get info for Portulacaria Afra, was through posting to multiple bonsai forums.
I hope this helps you out,
brianna
Jade plant is Crasula Ovata
Dwarf Jade is Portulacaria Afra
The Jade plant has leaves that typ. get to be about 1" long by 5/8" wide with a long taper going back down to the stem. There is constantly a red edge on the leaves of this plant as well. Most of the leaves are a light green
As for Dwarf Jade its bark is reddish-brown in color. The leaves are mostly dark green, and the young leaves will have a pink-reddish edge to them. They tend to be not much more than 1/2 wide by 3/8" long, sometimes having a indent running the length of the leaf. Also, the leaves may form a heart shape but does not happen too often. They don't taper have a long taper like the Jade plant but a short one. They stems will be red where they are newest and turn green as you go back to where the stem spilt from the secondary or tridary branch.
I'm sure if you are able to identify which plant you have that would help others out greatly. There is tons of info on the Jade Plant vs. Dwarf Jade, use the taxonomy name I gave you earlier to get the best and most relevant search results on search engines. There are plenty of pictures of both plants that if you look closely enough and think about the shape and color of the leaves you will be able to determine which one you have.
If does turn you have a Jade plant I would recommend you start a new thread with the subject of Jade plant to get the better response to your questions.
Not many people know about the Dwarf Jade/Portulacaria Afra, which will limit how many people see this thread. Also, try posting on multiple forums. that's how I was able to get info for Portulacaria Afra, was through posting to multiple bonsai forums.
I hope this helps you out,
brianna
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Gnome
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Juls,
Hi and welcome to the bonsai forum.
Here is something to consider though, most of my succulents (Portulacarias/Jades) have been grown from cutting with little regard for early root formation. They are healthy enough but it will be a challenge to produce a decent root-spread on these particular plants. For more information please refer to the sticky regarding root pruning and nebari formation.
Soil components can be a little difficult to locate. They can be purchased on-line but you are paying to ship rocks, try to find something locally. Read the sticky about soils at the top of the forum. Get back to us when you have absorbed this material, there is no hurry.
Norm
Hi and welcome to the bonsai forum.
Although they are not the same species I treat my Portulacarias similarly to my Jades. I note this because Jades don't seem to mind being root-bound at all. So there is really no big rush to re-pot.My Dwarf Jade's roots are coming out the draining holes. I assume that means that the plant needs to be replanted..
Here is something to consider though, most of my succulents (Portulacarias/Jades) have been grown from cutting with little regard for early root formation. They are healthy enough but it will be a challenge to produce a decent root-spread on these particular plants. For more information please refer to the sticky regarding root pruning and nebari formation.
Most growers don't use proper bonsai pots until a certain level of development has been reached, until then simply choose a conventional nursery container. Preferably one that is wider than it is tall.And the container for it? I live in Illinois.
Soil components can be a little difficult to locate. They can be purchased on-line but you are paying to ship rocks, try to find something locally. Read the sticky about soils at the top of the forum. Get back to us when you have absorbed this material, there is no hurry.
Norm