Imarhil
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Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 11:07 am
Location: England, Middlesbrough

Growning Acer palmatum & Acer buergerianum from seed

Hi, I have previously mention when introducing myself that I'm aiming to grow Acer palmatum & Acer buergerianum from seed witht eh aim of trining them as bonsai. Now that I have received the seeds I'm looking for feed back with regards to stratification process. :D

Ok firstly I have found a website: https://www.greenculturesg.com/articles/july05/gcs020705b.htm that seems to give me a very good step by step guide for stratification of my seeds. However I would like to know what you guys think about it and if their is anything you may do different or add to this guide? For example in step 4: the author says “Place the 20 or more seeds, no more than 30 in the bag and begin to roll toward the open end to dispel most of the air. Zip it closedâ€

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Gnome
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Imarhil,

I have planted Japanese Maples from seed three times now. The first time I purchased seed and had very spotty germination. Subsequently I have collected seed myself and have had much better results.
Finally would it be best to leave this stratification till next year now as 90 days form now is approximately end of July? and I'm not sure this will give the plants enough time to grow before autumn comes and the seedling begin to go dormant again and most likely will be killed by the first frosts (I will be protecting these seeds from cold for at least the first two years by placing them in the garage at night during the winder). The other option I was contemplating if I started stratification this year is could I keep them growing indoors throughout this winter and get them outside as soon as the last frosts of 2010 have gone?
This is the real question that needs to be addressed. Brent Walston notes, and my experience is similar, that Japanese Maples are difficult to germinate once they have dried out and that the best results are obtained when you procure fresh seed and plant them the following spring. I collect mine in the fall and store them damp and cold over the winter, never having allowed them to dry out. By the next spring they can't wait to get going and often begin to germinate before I get them planted.

The seeds you have now most likely should have been planted this spring and you face a tough choice. Try to get them going this year and have tender new plants, if you are lucky enough to get any, going into winter. Or wait until spring and try to germinate them ten months from now. Either choice is not compelling.
In the meantime I'm looking into purchasing (Japanese Maples By J. D. Vertrees, Peter Gregor) to read up on Acers
While the volume by Vertrees is undeniably an excellent work it may not be what you expect. There is cultural information included but the bulk of this book is devoted to describing the numerous cultivars. Think of it as an encyclopedia of cultivars.

A better first choice in my opinion, especially from a bonsai perspective, is 'Bonsai with Japanese Maples' by Peter Adams.

Norm

Imarhil
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Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 11:07 am
Location: England, Middlesbrough

Thanks Norm

That has indeed given me a great deal to think about, for starters I will shift my attention to the book you recommended by Peter Adams, I have heard many good things about him and Japanese maples. :)

Since I may have missed my optimum chance for getting going this season I think I may experiment with what ive got and try grow half now and leave the rest of the till next spring. :idea:
I collect mine in the fall and store them damp and cold over the winter, never having allowed them to dry out.
Forgive me if I'm committing a faux pa by asking for secrets but how exactly do you do this Norm?

Mark

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Imarhil,
Forgive me if I'm committing a faux pa by asking for secrets but how exactly do you do this Norm?
Not at all. I'm lucky enough to have located a pair of mature trees in a neighboring town that, so far at least, produces a good crop of seeds every other year. I've looked in 2006, 7 & 8 and found seed in 06 & 08 but none in 07. Some fruit trees behave this way as well, bearing every other year. So I expect to not find any this year but I may be surprised.

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I collect them when they are mature and fully formed directly from the tree. I collect them in a paper bag and when I get home I simply roll the bag up and bury it in a bin of barely damp potting soil that I usually have. This bin is located in a cool, unpaved, unheated garage that is located on the north side of my home. Under these conditions the seeds rest until midwinter. They are never dried but are not damp enough to germinate either.

At this point I take a step that is not really necessary but increases the viability of the seed I eventually plant. By now the 'wings' have softened and by rubbing the seeds over one of my bonsai screens I am easily able to clean them. By placing them in water it is then easy to differentiate the viable seed from the duds. The live seeds sink and the empty husks float.

The first year I did this I checked every floater and they were all empty. Every sinker that I checked looked good. Since then I don't even bother to check, I just discard the floaters. Remember this process is not required but gives me something to do in the dead of winter and does greatly increase the germination rate when I plant.

Now I start the actual stratification process which is not much different than my earlier conditions. The only real difference is that I make an effort to keep them a little damper. I do this by rolling them up in several layers of newspaper, moistening them and placing them in a plastic bag to maintain moisture. Then they go right back where they were since fall.

That's it, probably sounds harder than it really is, especially if you skip the cleaning step. Just store them barely damp and begin stratifying at the appropriate time. Check them periodically to look for mold or germinated seeds. By early spring they will begin to sprout and you will need to plant if you have not already.

Norm

Imarhil
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Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 11:07 am
Location: England, Middlesbrough

Cheers Norm you have been a real help :D
By placing them in water it is then easy to differentiate the viable seed from the duds. The live seeds sink and the empty husks float.
I have read about this step and I think I will also screen the seeds when the time is right 8)

Mark



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