I have a new Ginkgo Maidenhair Biloba Bonsai Seedling Tree. It is about 8 inches tall. It has been in it current pot ( a bucket) for about a month now. It is getting new growth now as well. I was wondering what course of action I should take now? Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks
Anthony
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pdgamember
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Gnome
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Anthony,
Generally very young trees require several years or even decades (species dependent) before much in the way of training can be done. One notable exception would be root training which should be carried out at each re-potting.
Some trees require specific strategies (Black Pine) if they are to become good bonsai in the future. Others (Elms) can be allowed to grow with almost no intervention for years before training begins. The reason for this is that Elms will back bud on old wood very easily whereas Pines do so with reluctance, if at all.
I can't help with this tree as I have never grown it, perhaps someone else with more experience will reply.
Norm
Generally very young trees require several years or even decades (species dependent) before much in the way of training can be done. One notable exception would be root training which should be carried out at each re-potting.
Some trees require specific strategies (Black Pine) if they are to become good bonsai in the future. Others (Elms) can be allowed to grow with almost no intervention for years before training begins. The reason for this is that Elms will back bud on old wood very easily whereas Pines do so with reluctance, if at all.
I can't help with this tree as I have never grown it, perhaps someone else with more experience will reply.
Norm
The leaves are fairly large on Gingko, and do not reduce readily, if at all. So planning on a larger bonsai from the beginning will go a long way. But, as Norm's said, seedlings are poor prospects for any formal above the soil line training. Just let it grow for a few year, removing only those branches that are "flaws".
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pdgamember
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Thanks for the input guys...I have a few more questions.
When should I replant it. As I just planted it last month into a bucket. And what size pot?
Is it ok to cut the branches that I don't like right now? and how?
What should I be doing for feeding it besides watering it daily?
When is ok to take it outside and what temps?
So I don't need to worry about wiring the truck yet?
If I think of more I will ask.
Thanks again
Anthony
When should I replant it. As I just planted it last month into a bucket. And what size pot?
Is it ok to cut the branches that I don't like right now? and how?
What should I be doing for feeding it besides watering it daily?
When is ok to take it outside and what temps?
So I don't need to worry about wiring the truck yet?
If I think of more I will ask.
Thanks again
Anthony
It will not need to be replanted, really, until the roots fill the pot. If the pot it is currently in is very deep and overly large for the plant, planting into a smaller pot now (Spring) is a good idea. Then, you will not need to repot until the roots once again fill the pot.
On branch cutting... with an immature tree, and a seedling at that, cutting branches "you don't like" doesn't make sense since these may fill in to be the exact branches you'll need for balance later. You can't undo branch removal, really. So, only those branches that are flaws (wheels, crossing, bar, etc.) should be removed.
Watering should not ever be done on a schedule, but when it is needed. Gauge the soil, when it's starting to dry out, water again. This may be every day, every other day, once per week, etc. It depends on the species, soil, time of year, etc. And just because, say, once per week, works now, does not mean it will work in the late Spring or Summer. Water when it's needed, not when it's scheduled. Feeding should be done, usually, once per week during growing seasons (Spring/Summer).
If this is growing indoors, I'd take it outside when all danger of frost is past.
Wiring the trunk should only occur if you have a desired form in mind now. With a seedling, it is difficult to impossible to tell if the form desired will suit the particular tree in the future. Can you work into the form? Sure, but this is something that takes a certain amount of skill/mastery that most beginners just don't have the experience to appreciate. That's not a knock, just a simple fact. For a beginner, doing this will be kind of like dropping a blind Iowa man in the middle of Times Square and telling him he needs to walk home.
On branch cutting... with an immature tree, and a seedling at that, cutting branches "you don't like" doesn't make sense since these may fill in to be the exact branches you'll need for balance later. You can't undo branch removal, really. So, only those branches that are flaws (wheels, crossing, bar, etc.) should be removed.
Watering should not ever be done on a schedule, but when it is needed. Gauge the soil, when it's starting to dry out, water again. This may be every day, every other day, once per week, etc. It depends on the species, soil, time of year, etc. And just because, say, once per week, works now, does not mean it will work in the late Spring or Summer. Water when it's needed, not when it's scheduled. Feeding should be done, usually, once per week during growing seasons (Spring/Summer).
If this is growing indoors, I'd take it outside when all danger of frost is past.
Wiring the trunk should only occur if you have a desired form in mind now. With a seedling, it is difficult to impossible to tell if the form desired will suit the particular tree in the future. Can you work into the form? Sure, but this is something that takes a certain amount of skill/mastery that most beginners just don't have the experience to appreciate. That's not a knock, just a simple fact. For a beginner, doing this will be kind of like dropping a blind Iowa man in the middle of Times Square and telling him he needs to walk home.
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pdgamember
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Anthony,
Also, read [url=https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/overpot.htm]this[/url] to learn why an overly large container is inappropriate.
Norm
I'm sure kdodds will stop back and respond with specifics but in the meantime read [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3422]this[/url] in order to begin to familiarize yourself with the concept of bonsai mediums. They are very different than common potting soils.I have it in miracle grow soil right now.
Also, read [url=https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/overpot.htm]this[/url] to learn why an overly large container is inappropriate.
Norm
While you don't NEED a bonsai training pot, the dimensions/proportions of bonsai training pots are more coducive to developing nice nebari (above ground roots) and horizontal, as opposed to vertical, root growth. I'd look for a shallower pot, in any case, speaking heightwise, and one that is not too much bigger, maybe an inch or so, than the current root system.
I'd definitely switch to an OUTDOOR bonsai mix as well.
I'd definitely switch to an OUTDOOR bonsai mix as well.