Juniper Bonsai
Please let me know today if I can move my bonsai outside in 60-70 degree temps during the day and 30-40 degree at night. I am trying to save this tree and would appreciate a response.
-
Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
duda,
I provide some protection, in the form of mulch, for my Juniper but it is outside and we have much colder temperatures than you. It has also been hardened off properly, meaning a slow transition from summer to fall to winter.
I see that this is your third post on this subject but you did not answer my previous inquiries, you have to help us help you! It is best to keep related questions in a single thread.
Norm
Yes, those temperatures are mild for a Juniper so if I were you I would get it outside. If possible I might avoid freezing temps this year because we don't know how it was handled before you received it. If it survives it should then remain outside forever.Please let me know today if I can move my bonsai outside in 60-70 degree temps during the day and 30-40 degree at night. I am trying to save this tree and would appreciate a response.
I provide some protection, in the form of mulch, for my Juniper but it is outside and we have much colder temperatures than you. It has also been hardened off properly, meaning a slow transition from summer to fall to winter.
I see that this is your third post on this subject but you did not answer my previous inquiries, you have to help us help you! It is best to keep related questions in a single thread.
Norm
Gnome,
I do not know what else you want to know. Plant is 4 years old, purchased from Mt Fuji Bonsai on December, 24, 08. Watered that day, misted 3 times daily for the last 3 weeks. Watered at roots yesterday, put outside today with fingers crossed and water in a little plate underneath. If there is anything else you will need to be specific.
I do not know what else you want to know. Plant is 4 years old, purchased from Mt Fuji Bonsai on December, 24, 08. Watered that day, misted 3 times daily for the last 3 weeks. Watered at roots yesterday, put outside today with fingers crossed and water in a little plate underneath. If there is anything else you will need to be specific.
-
Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
duda,
So now we know that you have watered it only once since the initial watering the day it arrived nearly three weeks ago. You have also kept it inside. two mistakes that may prove fatal.
Misting is not a substitute for thorough watering. Each time you water you should saturate the soil, a little moisture on the top of the soil is not sufficient. The trick is knowing when to water again, three weeks was probably too long for a tree inside a dry home. Read the thread on basic care in our new learning center for tips on watering, check out the toothpick method
I'm not surprised that the tree is losing its needles after its recent treatment. Junipers do not belong inside, many have tried but most fail. Now that it is outside and watered it may recover, it's hard to say. By the time Junipers get dry and drop their needles it is often too late. Don't leave it on a plate if there is any chance that water may wick back up into the pot, constantly soggy roots are a problem as well.
https://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/Juniperus.html
Norm
In your other thread I asked:Gnome,
I do not know what else you want to know. Plant is 4 years old, purchased from Mt Fuji Bonsai on December, 24, 08. Watered that day, misted 3 times daily for the last 3 weeks. Watered at roots yesterday, put outside today with fingers crossed and water in a little plate underneath. If there is anything else you will need to be specific.
Do you water it as well as misting it? Misting is not a replacement for thorough watering. Are you keeping the tree inside? Junipers don't do at all well inside, but a sudden move outside may not be a good choice depending on your weather.
So now we know that you have watered it only once since the initial watering the day it arrived nearly three weeks ago. You have also kept it inside. two mistakes that may prove fatal.
Misting is not a substitute for thorough watering. Each time you water you should saturate the soil, a little moisture on the top of the soil is not sufficient. The trick is knowing when to water again, three weeks was probably too long for a tree inside a dry home. Read the thread on basic care in our new learning center for tips on watering, check out the toothpick method
I'm not surprised that the tree is losing its needles after its recent treatment. Junipers do not belong inside, many have tried but most fail. Now that it is outside and watered it may recover, it's hard to say. By the time Junipers get dry and drop their needles it is often too late. Don't leave it on a plate if there is any chance that water may wick back up into the pot, constantly soggy roots are a problem as well.
https://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/Juniperus.html
Norm
It looks better this morning, I just watered it again and removed from tray. Hopefully I did not overwater it but I am still shooting in the dark here.
This tree came only with generic instructions, non which suggested keeping it outside. The lady who sold my son this plant may or maynot have been legitimate, but told him that watering should be cut down during colder months. Since I consistantly overwater plants, I was being cautious due to the importance of this tree to me.
What about fertilizing it in the near future? I am going to think positive and assume that this tree will live.
This tree came only with generic instructions, non which suggested keeping it outside. The lady who sold my son this plant may or maynot have been legitimate, but told him that watering should be cut down during colder months. Since I consistantly overwater plants, I was being cautious due to the importance of this tree to me.
What about fertilizing it in the near future? I am going to think positive and assume that this tree will live.
-
Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
duda,
I know this may seem contradictory but Junipers don't like to be constantly wet either. You have to make the effort to determine when to water by examining the tree. You cannot water on any kind of schedule. Cooler weather slows water usage as will being outside, our homes are almost always very dry for plants.
Check your PM's
Norm
OK, that's encouraging.It looks better this morning,
Red flag, generic instructions are practically worthless as you can now see. Junipers do very poorly inside and the vast majority of experienced growers don't even attempt it.This tree came only with generic instructions, non which suggested keeping it outside.
True enough, for plants in cooler climates that are over-wintered outdoors or in a cold room. In warm environments (your home) regular watering is essential.but told him that watering should be cut down during colder months
I understand, watering incorrectly, either too much or too little, too frequently or infrequently, is often at the root of the problems we see here. Make sure to read the material I suggested earlier and if it is not clear we can help with specifics. Can you describe the soil? Is it dense and peaty or loose and gritty? This is important in relation to how often you water.Since I consistantly overwater plants, I was being cautious due to the importance of this tree to me.
I know this may seem contradictory but Junipers don't like to be constantly wet either. You have to make the effort to determine when to water by examining the tree. You cannot water on any kind of schedule. Cooler weather slows water usage as will being outside, our homes are almost always very dry for plants.
Have you fertilized it since you owned it? Can you see any small spheres that burst if you squeeze them? If so then don't fertilize now. Considering your relatively mild climate, and assuming none of the above apply, you could fertilize it once at half strength. Then wait for the growing season to begin in earnest. Fertilizer, in and of itself, will not make your tree recover, proper culture is paramount.What about fertilizing it in the near future?
Check your PM's
Norm
-
Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
duda,
I'm glad your tree is looking better, good luck with it. The reason I asked about the soil is that a loose, gritty soil will drain and dry quicker than a dense, finely textured one.
I'm still not sure you fully understand proper watering technique so I'll try to cover it for you. Every time you water you should do so thoroughly, no half measures. Water until the soil is saturated, wait a few minutes and do so again. It is important that the entire root mass is wet. By watering slightly or sparingly you may be promoting a situation where the top is constantly damp and the interior is slowly becoming dry.
The real trick in watering is not the amount of water applied, that is the easy part, you cannot over-water by over-watering.
You over-water by watering too frequently. The trick is to determine when to water again. To do so get a thin kitchen skewer and insert it deeply into the pot and leave it there. To check soil moisture remove the skewer and hold it to your cheek, you will soon begin to learn that what appears to be dry on top is not necessarily the case below the surface.
In short don't try to gauge the quantity of water instead gauge the frequency with which you water. When you do water always do so thoroughly and then wait for the soil to approach dryness, a little water often is the wrong approach. Better to water deeply and less frequently.
Norm
I'm glad your tree is looking better, good luck with it. The reason I asked about the soil is that a loose, gritty soil will drain and dry quicker than a dense, finely textured one.
I'm still not sure you fully understand proper watering technique so I'll try to cover it for you. Every time you water you should do so thoroughly, no half measures. Water until the soil is saturated, wait a few minutes and do so again. It is important that the entire root mass is wet. By watering slightly or sparingly you may be promoting a situation where the top is constantly damp and the interior is slowly becoming dry.
The real trick in watering is not the amount of water applied, that is the easy part, you cannot over-water by over-watering.
You over-water by watering too frequently. The trick is to determine when to water again. To do so get a thin kitchen skewer and insert it deeply into the pot and leave it there. To check soil moisture remove the skewer and hold it to your cheek, you will soon begin to learn that what appears to be dry on top is not necessarily the case below the surface. In short don't try to gauge the quantity of water instead gauge the frequency with which you water. When you do water always do so thoroughly and then wait for the soil to approach dryness, a little water often is the wrong approach. Better to water deeply and less frequently.
Norm
-
Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
duda,
I water almost exclusively from the top with a watering can. This is the traditional way and the way that most growers recommend. The reason that is usually cited is that if you routinely water from the bottom you risk the possibility of allowing dissolved minerals that are present in your water or fertilizers to accumulate in the soil. By watering copiously from above you help to flush out any accumulation of salts. Since I don't water using the submersion method very often I can't really verify the risk of doing so.
Another reason I don't water this way is that it is very time consuming and not practical for me since I have a lot of pots that need watered. There is no way that I could take care of everything this way, I don't have enough tubs or enough hours to spend doing this.
If you water from above, the way I described above, there is really not much reason to water from the bottom, especially if your soil is loose and free draining as it should be. If your soil is compacted and difficult to wet properly an occasional soaking will help to ensure that the interior of the soil mass is not dry. Also I often soak things immediately after I re-pot to ensure that the new medium is thoroughly saturated the first time.
I also sometimes water Jades and Portulacaria this way but they are an unusual example. In nature they often experience extended dry spells and then can be inundated with water, this is why they have evolved to store water the way they do. With them watering from the bottom, very infrequently, mimics their natural conditions.
Norm
I water almost exclusively from the top with a watering can. This is the traditional way and the way that most growers recommend. The reason that is usually cited is that if you routinely water from the bottom you risk the possibility of allowing dissolved minerals that are present in your water or fertilizers to accumulate in the soil. By watering copiously from above you help to flush out any accumulation of salts. Since I don't water using the submersion method very often I can't really verify the risk of doing so.
Another reason I don't water this way is that it is very time consuming and not practical for me since I have a lot of pots that need watered. There is no way that I could take care of everything this way, I don't have enough tubs or enough hours to spend doing this.
If you water from above, the way I described above, there is really not much reason to water from the bottom, especially if your soil is loose and free draining as it should be. If your soil is compacted and difficult to wet properly an occasional soaking will help to ensure that the interior of the soil mass is not dry. Also I often soak things immediately after I re-pot to ensure that the new medium is thoroughly saturated the first time.
I also sometimes water Jades and Portulacaria this way but they are an unusual example. In nature they often experience extended dry spells and then can be inundated with water, this is why they have evolved to store water the way they do. With them watering from the bottom, very infrequently, mimics their natural conditions.
Norm