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I have quite a few though I'm sure many others collections dwarf mine. I have been gardening for a long time, but I normally bought starters from nursery's. This year I'm going to plant a bunch of heirlooms by seed. My main objective is to have a wide variety of tomatoes and lettuce with onions, eggplant, peppers, peas, beans, potatoes both sweet and Irish style, pumpkins, maybe some melons, cucumbers, carrots, various herbs etc.
So not having much if any experince with stating my own seeds I am at a loss of when I should start everything. I am in Missouri (5b) my last est. frost date is 4/30.
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gixxerific
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rainbowgardener
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Your seed packets would usually tell you how many weeks prior to last frost to plant. That is at least a good starting point until you have your own personal experience.
To start with the peas, lettuce, beans, carrots, and onions I wouldn't start indooors. They are all quick sprouting cool weather crops (except beans). I just sow them in the ground "as soon as the ground can be worked," which for me is somewhere around mid-March. And root crops don't transplant well. The beans go directly in the ground too, but later after all danger of frost and after the soil warms up a bit.
Here's a vegetable planting guide:
https://cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/720.pdf
if you add the days to germination + the weeks to transplant that should give you how much to count back from last frost to find planting date. But I notice on the tomatoes, using the shortest of both those ranges gives you 6 weeks; using the longest of both ranges would be 9 weeks. I start my tomatoes 8 wks before my average (50%) last frost date, so that I have good sized well developed plants to set out. So I'm sort of in the middle between earliest and latest start, but towards the early end.
The pumpkins, melons, cucumbers would be the last to start, because they want not just no frost but for the soil to be really nicely warmed up before you put them out and they are very fast growers. If you start them too soon, you will have huge plants spreading out all over the place with nowhere to put them.
To start with the peas, lettuce, beans, carrots, and onions I wouldn't start indooors. They are all quick sprouting cool weather crops (except beans). I just sow them in the ground "as soon as the ground can be worked," which for me is somewhere around mid-March. And root crops don't transplant well. The beans go directly in the ground too, but later after all danger of frost and after the soil warms up a bit.
Here's a vegetable planting guide:
https://cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/720.pdf
if you add the days to germination + the weeks to transplant that should give you how much to count back from last frost to find planting date. But I notice on the tomatoes, using the shortest of both those ranges gives you 6 weeks; using the longest of both ranges would be 9 weeks. I start my tomatoes 8 wks before my average (50%) last frost date, so that I have good sized well developed plants to set out. So I'm sort of in the middle between earliest and latest start, but towards the early end.
The pumpkins, melons, cucumbers would be the last to start, because they want not just no frost but for the soil to be really nicely warmed up before you put them out and they are very fast growers. If you start them too soon, you will have huge plants spreading out all over the place with nowhere to put them.
Dono,
I agree with Rainbow... Tomatoes and Eggplants - 8 weeks or so (though some very early varieties I will start at 12 weeks, so by the time these are ready for transplant, maybe 5-6 of those earlies will be sitting in 2 gallon pots.)
Peppers - I must say that for me, these guys are usually much slower growers than tomatoes. So 12 weeks for me on sweet and hot peppers. They would be 10-12", chilling on the rack by the window until the transplant date.
And for cukes - 4 weeks I think is plenty. These guys grow quick.
Let us know how it works out - looks like you have plenty of seeds to work with (by looking at your table)
Regards,
D
I agree with Rainbow... Tomatoes and Eggplants - 8 weeks or so (though some very early varieties I will start at 12 weeks, so by the time these are ready for transplant, maybe 5-6 of those earlies will be sitting in 2 gallon pots.)
Peppers - I must say that for me, these guys are usually much slower growers than tomatoes. So 12 weeks for me on sweet and hot peppers. They would be 10-12", chilling on the rack by the window until the transplant date.
And for cukes - 4 weeks I think is plenty. These guys grow quick.
Let us know how it works out - looks like you have plenty of seeds to work with (by looking at your table)
Regards,
D
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gixxerific
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Thanks DV Your numbers are pretty close to what I'm coming up with. 12 on peppers sounds good because they need warm soil to be planted in. This is a lot to do and figure out since I'm new to seed starting but I'll get it sorted out. I'm thinking Feb is when I will start the tom's at least. I was just upstairs going through my seeds. I came down to see If I could find a printable calender to get things more organized.
I have 2 different planting calenders that are pretty close to each other than I have one from MO university Ext. which I am following a little closer because the other 2 came from outside this state and the dates are bit different.
I do have a bit of seed even some from you DV via Earl K. He sent me a few of the seeds you gave him so thanks to both of you. I was going to send him a few later after I have opened them, I should get your address to send you some too.
So much work so little time.
c'mon spring I'm getting excited already.
I have 2 different planting calenders that are pretty close to each other than I have one from MO university Ext. which I am following a little closer because the other 2 came from outside this state and the dates are bit different.
I do have a bit of seed even some from you DV via Earl K. He sent me a few of the seeds you gave him so thanks to both of you. I was going to send him a few later after I have opened them, I should get your address to send you some too.
So much work so little time.
c'mon spring I'm getting excited already.
Dono - don't get me started on the spring! You are absolutely right, spring can't get here soon enough!
With the seed germination, during few months I've experimented with about 6-7 batches of various seeds, temperatures and mixes. If there is any experience I can share from these tests:
Seed starting mix in my personal trials worked the best was Espoma Organic Starter (blue bag, with ziplock). Very nice texture, easily moisten (compare to Jiffy, Ferry Morse and leftover Miracle Grow starters). This was also the only mix where I've never gotten any "white" stuff on the surface either. There was absolutely no seeds damping off with Espoma. Even a stubborn, old pepper seeds that took almost 20 days to germinate - no issues with any type of mold or anything alike on the surface!
And after reading few posts here on mycorrhizae and it's benefits - this mix has both ecto and endo mycorrhizae, the "good guys" must be doing something right! Healthiest seedlings I've seen!
The other thing, after testing germination and growth over and over again - adding 1 part of worm castings (1-0-0) to 3 parts of seedling mix (as suggested on the castings package) - makes a huge difference in vigor and overall development of the seedlings.
I know you would do fine! And you have done so much work in preparing your plot - wishing you the best growing season yet!!!
As for the seeds - really appreciate the offer, but I think I'm all set for this year. Expanding garden as soon as the weather permits. Can't wait!
Regards,
D
With the seed germination, during few months I've experimented with about 6-7 batches of various seeds, temperatures and mixes. If there is any experience I can share from these tests:
Seed starting mix in my personal trials worked the best was Espoma Organic Starter (blue bag, with ziplock). Very nice texture, easily moisten (compare to Jiffy, Ferry Morse and leftover Miracle Grow starters). This was also the only mix where I've never gotten any "white" stuff on the surface either. There was absolutely no seeds damping off with Espoma. Even a stubborn, old pepper seeds that took almost 20 days to germinate - no issues with any type of mold or anything alike on the surface!
And after reading few posts here on mycorrhizae and it's benefits - this mix has both ecto and endo mycorrhizae, the "good guys" must be doing something right! Healthiest seedlings I've seen!
The other thing, after testing germination and growth over and over again - adding 1 part of worm castings (1-0-0) to 3 parts of seedling mix (as suggested on the castings package) - makes a huge difference in vigor and overall development of the seedlings.
I know you would do fine! And you have done so much work in preparing your plot - wishing you the best growing season yet!!!
As for the seeds - really appreciate the offer, but I think I'm all set for this year. Expanding garden as soon as the weather permits. Can't wait!
Regards,
D
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gixxerific
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my planting calenders say to plant Tomatoes around May 15 or so. That seems VERY late to me. I always put mine out too early around mid March, I'm not very patient.
Doesn't make sense to me though. If I start my plants 8 weeks before the last frost which is Mar 30 - April 30 the plants would be roughly 3 1/2 month's old before I put them out in May. I would have to assume that they would be root bound by than and too big too transplant with a successful crop.
Am I being over complicating or is something amiss here.
Sorry after looking into it again I see that it goes till April 30. So maybe I will start my plants mid Feb instead of the first of Feb. Sound right? I don't want to screw this up.
Doesn't make sense to me though. If I start my plants 8 weeks before the last frost which is Mar 30 - April 30 the plants would be roughly 3 1/2 month's old before I put them out in May. I would have to assume that they would be root bound by than and too big too transplant with a successful crop.
Am I being over complicating or is something amiss here.
Sorry after looking into it again I see that it goes till April 30. So maybe I will start my plants mid Feb instead of the first of Feb. Sound right? I don't want to screw this up.
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rainbowgardener
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I start my tomato seeds around Valentine's Day and my average (50%) last frost here in 6B is April 15. I've tried starting them earlier and it doesn't work for me, because I don't have anywhere to put big plants under lights. I end up with them on windowsills where they get tall and spindly from not enough light.
Depending on the weather, I put my tomatoes out right around that last frost date or even a bit earlier, having spent some weeks hardening them off, carrying them out whenever weather is good and bringing them back in when it gets chilly. (The things we will do for that first June tomato!
)
That's definitely earlier than usually recommended, and I have been known to lose a few plants that way (but I always have backups in the wings). But mostly it works. The thing about those averages is they are based on over a hundred years of historical data. So they say 50% of those years there's no frost in Cincinnati after Tax Day. But in these global warming times, I'm sure it is now less than 50%. (But that still doesn't mean it can't happen and I do watch weather forecasts very closely that time of year!)
Depending on the weather, I put my tomatoes out right around that last frost date or even a bit earlier, having spent some weeks hardening them off, carrying them out whenever weather is good and bringing them back in when it gets chilly. (The things we will do for that first June tomato!
) That's definitely earlier than usually recommended, and I have been known to lose a few plants that way (but I always have backups in the wings). But mostly it works. The thing about those averages is they are based on over a hundred years of historical data. So they say 50% of those years there's no frost in Cincinnati after Tax Day. But in these global warming times, I'm sure it is now less than 50%. (But that still doesn't mean it can't happen and I do watch weather forecasts very closely that time of year!)
Well, I started my tomatos and peppers in the end of February last year, but I did not use grow lights (going to change that this year), so they were both extremely (1-3 in.) small. This year I'm starting my peppers under lights in the beginning of February and the tomatoes the same way at the end of the month.
I had a frost toward the end of May, which killed all my cucumbers, last year; even though the last frost date for my area is April 30. Because of this, I'm hesitant to set anything out before the middle of May this year. I don't know how well tomatoes and peppers handle a late frost; but I know that cucumbers do not take a late frost well at all.
As for onions, I've never heard about direct sowing them in the north, at least not the large sweet onions. I plan on starting mine indoors Feb. 1, this year. I've found hardly any information on growing onions from seed, but I did find one person in my zone who did it by starting them in January. I'm starting them a bit later than that person.
Good luck with your gardening and seed starting!
I had a frost toward the end of May, which killed all my cucumbers, last year; even though the last frost date for my area is April 30. Because of this, I'm hesitant to set anything out before the middle of May this year. I don't know how well tomatoes and peppers handle a late frost; but I know that cucumbers do not take a late frost well at all.
As for onions, I've never heard about direct sowing them in the north, at least not the large sweet onions. I plan on starting mine indoors Feb. 1, this year. I've found hardly any information on growing onions from seed, but I did find one person in my zone who did it by starting them in January. I'm starting them a bit later than that person.
Good luck with your gardening and seed starting!
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Ozark Lady
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I suggest getting Jeff Ball's 60 minute gardening. I just ordered a replacement for the one that I had.
He breaks gardening down into small parts, like seed starting, and plans it all out on a calendar... I grow more than he does, and different plants but it sure does help me to get my plants and seedlings lined up as far as, when to start what.
I can't do what he does in the 60 minute time frame, for me that is not the value of the book, for me the spacing of the plants and stuff and how to do successsion planting helps me alot.
He will start you out week by week, you just look for his frost date. Then you make your own calendar of when to start what, based on the new calendar that you just made up.
I live in zone 6b and I tend to want to rush things. I can't wait for my new copy to get here, my old one burned in a house fire... and I miss it.
Without it, I will be jumping into starting tomatoes and peppers... next week! Actually, I have been thinking the end of January, but, wanna bet that is too early? My frost free date is 2 weeks before yours.
Really, more important than when you start your transplants, or just as important is how well you raise them. You don't want pale, leggy, sickly transplants. Nor do you want short, stubby ones. I think that raising transplants is an art in itself... one that I am not so good at, until I can start them outside... Did I mention that I kill houseplants? ha ha
He breaks gardening down into small parts, like seed starting, and plans it all out on a calendar... I grow more than he does, and different plants but it sure does help me to get my plants and seedlings lined up as far as, when to start what.
I can't do what he does in the 60 minute time frame, for me that is not the value of the book, for me the spacing of the plants and stuff and how to do successsion planting helps me alot.
He will start you out week by week, you just look for his frost date. Then you make your own calendar of when to start what, based on the new calendar that you just made up.
I live in zone 6b and I tend to want to rush things. I can't wait for my new copy to get here, my old one burned in a house fire... and I miss it.
Without it, I will be jumping into starting tomatoes and peppers... next week! Actually, I have been thinking the end of January, but, wanna bet that is too early? My frost free date is 2 weeks before yours.
Really, more important than when you start your transplants, or just as important is how well you raise them. You don't want pale, leggy, sickly transplants. Nor do you want short, stubby ones. I think that raising transplants is an art in itself... one that I am not so good at, until I can start them outside... Did I mention that I kill houseplants? ha ha
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rainbowgardener
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gixxerific
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Thanks to everyone for their ideas, much thanks. My main goal is Toms right now if everything else dies the day I plant so be it just give my some tom's.
I was talking about this with my boss today. he was telling me about may is what his mom would do it. She used to grow Tom's etc for home use and for sale. So I came to the conclusion that I have been wrong in putting them out as early as I normally do. Not so much wrong but jumping the gun being that they won't do much at all UNTIL the soil warms up a bit. Not to mention that fact that I have planted several years thinking all was good only to have a late frost. Not so bad when you can just go to the store and get new ones but when you are depending on your seedlings to do well it could spell disaster. I don't do well with disaster.
I need to talk to my aunt who has a SUPER garden that ALWAYS does VERY well and see what she does.
Thanks again and please bear with me, I am almost sick with fear of failure.
I was talking about this with my boss today. he was telling me about may is what his mom would do it. She used to grow Tom's etc for home use and for sale. So I came to the conclusion that I have been wrong in putting them out as early as I normally do. Not so much wrong but jumping the gun being that they won't do much at all UNTIL the soil warms up a bit. Not to mention that fact that I have planted several years thinking all was good only to have a late frost. Not so bad when you can just go to the store and get new ones but when you are depending on your seedlings to do well it could spell disaster. I don't do well with disaster.
I need to talk to my aunt who has a SUPER garden that ALWAYS does VERY well and see what she does.
Thanks again and please bear with me, I am almost sick with fear of failure.
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gixxerific
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One more thing my local Ext. say's Mar 30 - Apr 30. Do you stay with the latter or go midway? I work outside so the weather is daily thing for me, I'm almost as accurate as the weatherman on Tv. I just don't get 6 figures a year to be wrong half the time. 
This is probably the most important question, there is a 30 day window that brings into the picture a myriad of complexity. That's a lot of time for good or bad things to happen.
This is probably the most important question, there is a 30 day window that brings into the picture a myriad of complexity. That's a lot of time for good or bad things to happen.
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rainbowgardener
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Well, IMO, the tomatoes that I put out early aren't doing much VISIBLE while the soil is still cold, but they are putting out roots and getting established so they are ready to jump up as soon as it warms a little.
I always have the biggest plants and earliest tomatoes in the neighborhood!
And yes, pushing the season so hard, I do occasionally lose a few plants (most often in the hardening off process, misjudging or just screwing up on when to bring in vs leave out etc, rarely once they are actually in the ground). I always have more waiting, so it's not such a big deal.
I always have the biggest plants and earliest tomatoes in the neighborhood!
And yes, pushing the season so hard, I do occasionally lose a few plants (most often in the hardening off process, misjudging or just screwing up on when to bring in vs leave out etc, rarely once they are actually in the ground). I always have more waiting, so it's not such a big deal.
Pepper4, did you use grow lights? I didn't and that's why I think I had such poor seedlings.pepper4 wrote:garden5 I am in Ohio and did try growing onions from seed indoors for my first time last year but basically had no success so I bought sets and onion plants. I think I am going to do the same this year.
How tall were your seedlings when you planted them.
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The Helpful Gardener
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If you don't have the lights there is little or no reason to start now; it is still really early for Zone 5 gardeners. My date is Apr 15th; Gixx call your extension service and ask. They will do you better than a month long window you will get an approximate day, anyway. And almanacs are surprisingly good for the most part, especially on generalities like frost dates...
HG
HG
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gixxerific
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Rainbow same here I always put them out early and had the first plants out of people I know. Mine were 5-10 times bigger that my 2 neighbors last year.
Scott those dates are from my Local Ext agency. I don't think you can nail it down to on date. I found another site [url=https://davesgarden.com/guides/freeze-frost-dates/index.php?q=63385&submit=Go]Daves Garden[/url] that has it broke down in percentages. So March 30 is says a 90 % chance of frost and on Apr 24 a 10 % chance (if you go to that site I would be the Warrenton choice). So I think I gonna go with Apr 11 as planting time I will start my seedlings based on that date which will be about the mid of Feb. Sound right to everyone?
By the way Daves Garden is a pretty cool site you can obviously find your frost dates as well as it having a fairly extensive section you could use to identify bugs, birds, plants and other useful gardening related goodies.
:Edit: Oh yeah Scott I do have some grow lights and a way to heat them so hopefully everything will come out all peachy, or in this case tomatoey
Scott those dates are from my Local Ext agency. I don't think you can nail it down to on date. I found another site [url=https://davesgarden.com/guides/freeze-frost-dates/index.php?q=63385&submit=Go]Daves Garden[/url] that has it broke down in percentages. So March 30 is says a 90 % chance of frost and on Apr 24 a 10 % chance (if you go to that site I would be the Warrenton choice). So I think I gonna go with Apr 11 as planting time I will start my seedlings based on that date which will be about the mid of Feb. Sound right to everyone?
By the way Daves Garden is a pretty cool site you can obviously find your frost dates as well as it having a fairly extensive section you could use to identify bugs, birds, plants and other useful gardening related goodies.
:Edit: Oh yeah Scott I do have some grow lights and a way to heat them so hopefully everything will come out all peachy, or in this case tomatoey
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gixxerific
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rainbowgardener
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As far as putting them out, you can't just go by the calendar... that's why they were giving you a range of dates, because every year is different. I start the seeds by the calendar, because in February you can't know what April will bring. But in late March and early April, I am watching the 10 day weather forecasts like a hawk. (And some times 15 day --www.accuweather.com has a 15 day forecast).
That helps me figure out to do, and when to be hardening things off and when to be bringing them back in.
By late March I have trays and trays of tomatoes and other stuff that could go in the ground whenever the ground and weather cooperate. I do a lot of bringing trays in and out in those last weeks.
I also have a pop up greenhouse, that I got super cheap at a discontinued sale at big box store. It is NOT very good, not at all air tight, but provides some protection. And I have a regular metal shelving unit that I wrap in plastic to make a mini greenhouse (with velcro down the front for access)... All of this is just to get the seedlings started being used to outside temps with some protection, in those last weeks.
(And by then the 16' under grow lights is way too full and I have to have somewhere to put things!)
(It's a kind of craziness, I know -- it all sounds kind of bizarre to me as I write it out, oh well)
That helps me figure out to do, and when to be hardening things off and when to be bringing them back in.
By late March I have trays and trays of tomatoes and other stuff that could go in the ground whenever the ground and weather cooperate. I do a lot of bringing trays in and out in those last weeks.
I also have a pop up greenhouse, that I got super cheap at a discontinued sale at big box store. It is NOT very good, not at all air tight, but provides some protection. And I have a regular metal shelving unit that I wrap in plastic to make a mini greenhouse (with velcro down the front for access)... All of this is just to get the seedlings started being used to outside temps with some protection, in those last weeks.
(And by then the 16' under grow lights is way too full and I have to have somewhere to put things!)
(It's a kind of craziness, I know
-- it all sounds kind of bizarre to me as I write it out, oh well)-
gixxerific
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I feel ya RG I know that date isn't set in stone. That is why I'm going for the middle and also I'm going to start another set 2 weeks after the first just in case. I went with the middle in case it is all good I figure if the weather is not cooperating another 2 weeks in the house won't kill them, I hope.
To be quite honest I'm an idiot. I realized last night that I have been looking at the date all wrong. In my notes I have 4/30 written down for the last frost which is April 30. For some reason every time I looked at it I was thinking March. I should know that Mar is 3 not 4 my birthday is in Mar. Dohhhhh!
To be quite honest I'm an idiot. I realized last night that I have been looking at the date all wrong. In my notes I have 4/30 written down for the last frost which is April 30. For some reason every time I looked at it I was thinking March. I should know that Mar is 3 not 4 my birthday is in Mar. Dohhhhh!
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Ozark Lady
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Don't feel bad, I just erred the other direction.
For some reason I thought April 15 was frost free.... Nahh that is pay the tax man day...
My frost free hits March 23.... I gotta get those seedlings started for cabbages and broccoli... and get out there with the really early crops... gee running late already!
For some reason I thought April 15 was frost free.... Nahh that is pay the tax man day...
My frost free hits March 23.... I gotta get those seedlings started for cabbages and broccoli... and get out there with the really early crops... gee running late already!
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rainbowgardener
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Well interestingly enough here our average (50% of the time) frost free date IS tax day. But 90% frost free isn't until 1 May.
But of course as I've said elsewhere, those averages are based on 100+ yrs of data. In these global warming times, you can count on it being earlier (I.e. less than 50% of the time will we have frost after tax day).
But of course as I've said elsewhere, those averages are based on 100+ yrs of data. In these global warming times, you can count on it being earlier (I.e. less than 50% of the time will we have frost after tax day).
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Ozark Lady
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gixxerific
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Alrighty than, I think I have it all ready to go. Using May 1 as a general last frost I just finished putting together a calender that has when I should plant seed and when I should transplant. Of course I know this is just a basic plan and weather at the time will dictate what really happens. I still have a few, not many, other things I need to plan out but it's about 90%+ done for. I feel so much better now.
Now to put together a site plan. I have graph paper that I am going to get a rough idea of where I will put everything, well the most important things. I will base it on last years placements and plant accordingly so as to not put anything in the same place.
You should have seen me I had about 6 different references that I was using to put this all together. My wife said "Look at you your so cute" at least she's on board with me.
I need some sleep now.
Thanks to everyone for bearing with me and good luck to you all this coming season, it's gonna be a good one I can feel it.
Now to put together a site plan.
I have graph paper that I am going to get a rough idea of where I will put everything, well the most important things. I will base it on last years placements and plant accordingly so as to not put anything in the same place.You should have seen me I had about 6 different references that I was using to put this all together. My wife said "Look at you your so cute" at least she's on board with me.
I need some sleep now.
Thanks to everyone for bearing with me and good luck to you all this coming season, it's gonna be a good one I can feel it.
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gixxerific
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Maybe you could use a floating row cover this year on the peach trees.Ozark Lady wrote:After tax day, 2009 we had an ice storm, and it literally killed all the blooms on the peach trees.
So, you just never know...
But, I will hedge my bet, and use tunnels to regulate the garden..
Can't help the fruit trees though.
Crazy weatther...
According to the resource that Gix put up, my 50% date is Apr. 30 and my 90% frost-free date is May 16.
However, last year, a freeze came along and killed the cucumbers on May 18. Now, I didn't have any toms or peppers planted, so I don't know how well thy would have survived the frost. It was after this that I decided not to plant any toms or pepper out until about the end of May this year.
On this thread, it looks like a lot you with similar climates to mine put out your tomatoes as early as the middle or end of April, with good results. Maybe last year was a fluke for me. I think I'm going to follow your leads and set some tomato plants out early (end of Apr.) and see how they do. Maybe I'll put some milk jugs over them. I don't know how effective it would be to put peppers out early, though. Anyone ever tried that?
However, last year, a freeze came along and killed the cucumbers on May 18. Now, I didn't have any toms or peppers planted, so I don't know how well thy would have survived the frost. It was after this that I decided not to plant any toms or pepper out until about the end of May this year.
On this thread, it looks like a lot you with similar climates to mine put out your tomatoes as early as the middle or end of April, with good results. Maybe last year was a fluke for me. I think I'm going to follow your leads and set some tomato plants out early (end of Apr.) and see how they do. Maybe I'll put some milk jugs over them. I don't know how effective it would be to put peppers out early, though. Anyone ever tried that?
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gixxerific
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- Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 5:42 pm
- Location: Wentzville, MO (Just West oF St. Louis) Zone 5B
I. am starting 2 different sets of Tom's, 1 for backup just in case. About the peppers I would wait for those maybe even 2 weeks or more after the last frost.garden5 wrote:According to the resource that Gix put up, my 50% date is Apr. 30 and my 90% frost-free date is May 16.
However, last year, a freeze came along and killed the cucumbers on May 18. Now, I didn't have any toms or peppers planted, so I don't know how well thy would have survived the frost. It was after this that I decided not to plant any toms or pepper out until about the end of May this year.
On this thread, it looks like a lot you with similar climates to mine put out your tomatoes as early as the middle or end of April, with good results. Maybe last year was a fluke for me. I think I'm going to follow your leads and set some tomato plants out early (end of Apr.) and see how they do. Maybe I'll put some milk jugs over them. I don't know how effective it would be to put peppers out early, though. Anyone ever tried that?
I think you're right, Gix. To my understanding, peppers really don't do much unless the soil is warm. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to remember reading that if you set out peppers in cool soil, it may actually cause them to perform worse throughout the season than if they were planted in warm soil. It was something to that effect.gixxerific wrote:I. am starting 2 different sets of Tom's, 1 for backup just in case. About the peppers I would wait for those maybe even 2 weeks or more after the last frost.garden5 wrote:According to the resource that Gix put up, my 50% date is Apr. 30 and my 90% frost-free date is May 16.
However, last year, a freeze came along and killed the cucumbers on May 18. Now, I didn't have any toms or peppers planted, so I don't know how well thy would have survived the frost. It was after this that I decided not to plant any toms or pepper out until about the end of May this year.
On this thread, it looks like a lot you with similar climates to mine put out your tomatoes as early as the middle or end of April, with good results. Maybe last year was a fluke for me. I think I'm going to follow your leads and set some tomato plants out early (end of Apr.) and see how they do. Maybe I'll put some milk jugs over them. I don't know how effective it would be to put peppers out early, though. Anyone ever tried that?
I don't think it would be a bad idea to lay some clear plastic over the soil maybe two weeks prior to planting so as to warm it up; milk jugs might work also. I might just set out a pepper plant or two early using this method and see how they do compared to the main crop.
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gixxerific
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- Posts: 5889
- Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 5:42 pm
- Location: Wentzville, MO (Just West oF St. Louis) Zone 5B
I would whole heartily agree. I just read the same thing in a book over the weekend. Peppers are weird they almost seem to like poor soil and just all around bad care, to a certain extent of course.garden5 wrote: I think you're right, Gix. To my understanding, peppers really don't do much unless the soil is warm. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to remember reading that if you set out peppers in cool soil, it may actually cause them to perform worse throughout the season than if they were planted in warm soil. It was something to that effect.
I don't think it would be a bad idea to lay some clear plastic over the soil maybe two weeks prior to planting so as to warm it up; milk jugs might work also. I might just set out a pepper plant or two early using this method and see how they do compared to the main crop.