Removing Leaves off Tomato Plants?

[BarbMathias]

any info on stripping all the leaves off tomato plants?

[cynthia_h]

Just this one: if you strip all the leaves off of a tomato (or any other) plant, it will lose its ability to photosynthesize. Generally, no more than one-third of a plant can be removed at one time, and in sensitive plants, even less.

Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9

[TZ -OH6]

BarbMathias,

In regards to what situation? Planting out seedlings, or pruning mature plants?

[rainbowgardener]

Since I read this forum diligently , I know there are people saying stripping the leaves will help the plant focus more on growing fruit, increasing yield. However, cynthia is right, the leaves are how the plant produces food. Also tomato fruits exposed to too much direct sun get sun scalded. So (as usual), I think the question is one of balance. Once you have fruit (I wouldn't touch it before it has started setting fruit), you may want to pinch out suckers and reduce the number of branches and leaves a little to encourage the plant to focus on fruit, but don't overdo. Once the plant is getting really big, I also pinch out growing tips of stems, to keep it from getting huger and again try to focus it on growing fruit versus just getting bigger.

[The Helpful Gardener]

I strip lower leaves as a disease preventative (lots of splash-up diseases like early blight get a start that way). Cynthia is right, no more than a third of Any plant EVER (I hear the knives sharpening in the Bonsai Forum already, but that is a wee different kettle of fish).

HG

[minu]

OK so as a novice gardener, not only did I plant my tomatoes too close (about 15inches apart only) but I also did not pinch off any lower suckers and now have a few vigorously growing tomato plants with multiple strong branches that have already flowered and some have set fruit. I am trying to stake down the multiple branches with bamboo stakes but the plant just keeps growing and is now shading some basil plants that I had set next to the tomatoes.
What can I do in this scenario? OK to cut off some of the secondary branches that have not flowered but have mature leaves?

Needless to say I have learned my lesson and will pay more attention to the spacing instructions instead of getting overly enthusiastic

Thanks
Minoti

[rainbowgardener]

yes, it should be ok to cut a few branches off... focus on the ones lowest to the ground. At this point if possible, I'd just move the basil somewhere else, your tomatoes do need some room and the basil moves pretty easily, much more than the tomatoes. You could even stick the basil in containers some where. If the tomatoes are too crowded it reduces air circulation and increases the chance of diseases (as does having any leaves touching the ground, why I suggested if you remove branches, do the bottom ones).

[The Helpful Gardener]

Right on, RG!

S

[earth-tone]

Speaking of pinching off leaves, what is the best method? I've heard not to use cutters, but rather your fingers instead.

[TZ -OH6]

I don't know of anyone who has ever killed a tomato plant by using nippers to cut suckers off instead of fingers, but a good strong thumbnail works best for me.

[The Helpful Gardener]

True TZ, but you can make a mess of a plant going for a branch too large and peeling out a chunk of plant. Why choose? I do both...

HG

[springbok89]

hi

I can appreciate peoples concerns when removing leaves from your tomatoe plants it CAN be assumned that more leaves+sunlight=more growth and this may be true. I question this method also and I'm currently doing my own trials, so that I can pass my own judgement on the matter. I couldnt help but notice perhaps a bit of prejudice against the new is goin on in this topic so...

I do have a few things to say

a) I have been told by a Dr in the field that it works.
b) I have witnessed it being done in HYDROPONIC production the tomatoes were indoor cordons in a tec greenhouse.
c) mature leaves are not as efficient as young leaves.
d) I have been told the various sugars are synthesised within the fruits structure but cant find evidents of this.
e) theres a myriad beneficial changes in conditions on both the fruit (humidity/air supply for instance) and area IMPROVING LIGHT AVAILABILITY IN THE GREENHOUSE ALLOWING POLYCULTURE TO BE PRACTISED?


this is my own personal view from asking questions, researching and seeing I have not done it myself and wont say I have till the crop is in.
If it does work the possibilities of polyculture in particular appeal to me as I don't have much space.
if we don't experiment nothing will be learnt . thanks [/u]

[rainbowgardener]

I think we are all here because we want to keep learning more about gardening and finding out/ trying new things. I think it's great when people set up experiments and test things out. Please do let us know, springbok, how yours works out.

In the meantime, there is a whole wide range of people's experience/ opinion about pruning tomatoes, pinching out suckers, taking leaves off, etc, with some people leaving their plants totally alone, some people (e.g. me) pinching out suckers and pinching out growing tips once the plant is getting very large and some people doing a lot of pruning and stripping leaves. I would just put one thing out there about the radical pruning end: do remember that one thing the leaves do is provide shade for the tomatoes. If you are growing outdoors not in greenhouse and you remove too many leaves, your tomatoes can sunscald. Here's something about that:

"The sudden exposure of fruits to direct sunlight in hot, dry weather can cause sunscald. This results in white or yellow patches on the side of the tomato exposed to the sun. To avoid sunscald, limit pruning and keep foliage healthy to provide shade and protection for the ripening fruit."
https://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4dmg/Pests/Diseases/tomaprob.htm

[SP8]

OK so as a novice gardener, not only did I plant my tomatoes too close (about 15inches apart only) but I also did not pinch off any lower suckers and now have a few vigorously growing tomato plants with multiple strong branches that have already flowered and some have set fruit. I am trying to stake down the multiple branches with bamboo stakes but the plant just keeps growing and is now shading some basil plants that I had set next to the tomatoes.
What can I do in this scenario? OK to cut off some of the secondary branches that have not flowered but have mature leaves?

Needless to say I have learned my lesson and will pay more attention to the spacing instructions instead of getting overly enthusiastic

Thanks
Minoti

Set up a reflector to get some sun on your basil and let your tomatoes run their course.

[The Helpful Gardener]

I too am trialing mostly leafless tomatoes and springbok is correct; more light and air circulation IS a good thing so far. No detrimentals I can see to this point; more to follow...

HG

[stella1751]

I have to prune my tomatoes. The wind in Wyoming can get quite high; I heard once this summer that we made hurricane strength, but I don't know how high that is. It can also occur in sudden, violent bursts. One perfectly calm day I was out minding my own business when a gust of wind exploded and dissipated, all within the space of seconds. Thwack! I was almost felled by a three-foot long healthy branch of the neighbor's tree hitting the back of my head. Even though it hurt, it made me laugh. I whirled around to face my attacker, and there was a branch lying at my feet

That said, any Wyoming plant over a foot tall needs to be supported in some way. I use tomato cages for my tomatoes. I space my tomatoes 30" to 36" apart. As they mature and put out new branches, I feed the new branches up into the cages. Eventually, the center growth becomes impacted, and the inner growth suffers from lack of air and sunlight.

So, I prune. Like Cynthia_H advised, I never take more than a third of a plant at a time, but I will tell you that my previously lush tomatoes resemble plucked chickens when I am done. Yes, they also concentrate on production. However, my reason for pruning is not so much to enhance production but to provide support for new branches while making certain the inner plant's vital machinery stays well oiled

One note: If you over-prune, as I do on occasion, you will stress your plant. Earlier this summer, I pruned one of my guys to the nth of his life. The next morning, he had blossom drop. I've left him alone since, and he has yet to regain his full glory. The other four, however, have been pruned at least twice, and two are ready to be pruned again.

Confessions: I might like doing it too much.

[cynthia_h]

Hurricane strength winds are > 76 mph.

Lower than that, they're a "tropical storm" or, even lower, a "tropical depression."

We had 60- to 65-mph winds in early April; I had to deliver papers to a bank and was stunned that a very large (approx. 12" diameter) branch had been blown off of a tree in the bank's parking lot. Fortunately, the two women and their dogs who had arrived at the bank in the smashed-up car were uninjured. Unfortunately, the car was completely undriveable.

Hurricane-strength winds would definitely strip leaves and fruit off of many plants, shrubs, and/or trees.

Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9

[SP8]

I too am trialing mostly leafless tomatoes and springbok is correct; more light and air circulation IS a good thing so far. No detrimentals I can see to this point; more to follow...

HG

None for me either.

[img]https://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/SamhainP8/Tom.jpg[/img]
5 July 2009


Over 60 fruit from this one plant

[Shoe]

I read that some think photosynthesis happens in the leaves. That is true, but it is not the only place photosunthesis happens. Photosynthesis actually happens in the chloroplasts. Chloroplasts have chlorophyll which makes the plant green. Tomato stems are green. Photosynthesis also happens in the stems.