Yay! The seed started tomato plants are finally going in the ground./final containers.
Plans have been sketched out for 4 tomato areas, and first one was planted today (all except the two Coyote's)
..Yes, yes, I packed them in. No way to fit them all otherwise.
(BTW I'm not necessarily planting watermelons 12" apart. That's just an indicator to show how many max *could* fit if I were to do so. Luckily I don't *think* I have this many watermelon seedlings since I gave away some and lost some to some kind of seed/root maggots.)
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Oh, I forgot I took this picture. This was when I was almost done but had reached my limit and took a break. Something like 6 remaining plants had to be hunted down. I took down the plastic sheeting air warmer/wind block because it was really muggy today, and if the hot-humid season is starting, I thought it would hinder air circulation and cause more problems for both tomatoes and winter squash.
I put up a CRW panel raised up on HD T-posts with fence clips. Top of the panel is 5 ft H which isn't going to be enough, but I thought I'd try it ths way and try pruning. It will take care of the double row in the back. I think I'll just use bamboo stakes and string for the rest. Though I *may* decide to put up another panel along the short end.- feldon30
- Senior Member
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:42 am
- Location: Rock Hill, SC
- Contact: Website
Nice list of tomatoes there. You're definitely packing as much as possible into your space!
Too bad you don't have a friend down the road with a huge backyard or property facing a creek that you could just drop a bag of Black Kow, put watermelon seedlings in and let em go! I'm doing this for Ambrosia melons this year.
Too bad you don't have a friend down the road with a huge backyard or property facing a creek that you could just drop a bag of Black Kow, put watermelon seedlings in and let em go! I'm doing this for Ambrosia melons this year.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Feldon, Imafan, we have a club -- I can't remember the initials/acronym right now ...something like Plant Everything Too Close... but I'll look for the thread.
ETA https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... =4&t=26392 (there might be a more recent thread too. Anyone know? help me out here lakngulf.)
OK! Came in pretty much drenched from the anticipated rain that started while I was still trying to get everybody planted -- but the second tomato garden area is in (I'm changing the thread title to read plural )
No photos of the garden -- it was too wet to risk taking the iPad out of the gallon zip bag "raincoat" -- but here's the stage map: Ha! I have a "before" when I had finished soil prep and was getting ready to plant BTW I'm trying a raised bed edging idea -- empty OJ bottles.
All of the sunflowers in the beds are up and doing well, but the extras I sowed in the unmarked little gap -- next to where I'm going to think of a way to put a hanging vertical garden -- were victims of slug attack. In fact, when I peeked, there was a big slug sitting where the sunflower should have sprouted (and probably did ) The slug did not survive.
I still have to sow the nasturtiums under the espalier cherries, and I think I'll start soaking and pre-germinating the pole beans. We're still looking at over night lows in the 50's for the next 10 days so I don't think the peppers will be planted out for a while yet, but I have extra cucumbers that have sprouted in those pudding cup soil blockers, so I'll plant those soon.
ETA https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... =4&t=26392 (there might be a more recent thread too. Anyone know? help me out here lakngulf.)
OK! Came in pretty much drenched from the anticipated rain that started while I was still trying to get everybody planted -- but the second tomato garden area is in (I'm changing the thread title to read plural )
No photos of the garden -- it was too wet to risk taking the iPad out of the gallon zip bag "raincoat" -- but here's the stage map: Ha! I have a "before" when I had finished soil prep and was getting ready to plant BTW I'm trying a raised bed edging idea -- empty OJ bottles.
All of the sunflowers in the beds are up and doing well, but the extras I sowed in the unmarked little gap -- next to where I'm going to think of a way to put a hanging vertical garden -- were victims of slug attack. In fact, when I peeked, there was a big slug sitting where the sunflower should have sprouted (and probably did ) The slug did not survive.
I still have to sow the nasturtiums under the espalier cherries, and I think I'll start soaking and pre-germinating the pole beans. We're still looking at over night lows in the 50's for the next 10 days so I don't think the peppers will be planted out for a while yet, but I have extra cucumbers that have sprouted in those pudding cup soil blockers, so I'll plant those soon.
Last edited by applestar on Fri May 23, 2014 2:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Replaced the map with most recent version.
Reason: Replaced the map with most recent version.
Your "stage maps" are sure nifty, AppleStar!
I would probably still get into trouble with a program like that. As it is, I try to do some rotations, keep sprinkler locations in mind, then just start off planting from "here" to the horizon!
Of course, I can't actually get to the horizon. There's always something in the way like a needed path or the neighbor's property line. So, I make a corner, come back on the other side, set plants too close together, lose plant tags . . . get terribly frustrated! Take stomach meds . . .
Your organizational mapping makes a good deal more sense . Here's Wishing You a Great Season!
Steve
I would probably still get into trouble with a program like that. As it is, I try to do some rotations, keep sprinkler locations in mind, then just start off planting from "here" to the horizon!
Of course, I can't actually get to the horizon. There's always something in the way like a needed path or the neighbor's property line. So, I make a corner, come back on the other side, set plants too close together, lose plant tags . . . get terribly frustrated! Take stomach meds . . .
Your organizational mapping makes a good deal more sense . Here's Wishing You a Great Season!
Steve
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Thanks, Steve. These maps are what keeps me sane -- or some resemblance thereof.
...and in a postage stamp garden, it's the only way I know to figure out where everything goes.
I took some pictures after today's rain ...catching and saving the rich water that get flushed out from uppotted seedling and container plant soil mix... I gave the water in the aluminum pan to the big banana.
...and in a postage stamp garden, it's the only way I know to figure out where everything goes.
I took some pictures after today's rain ...catching and saving the rich water that get flushed out from uppotted seedling and container plant soil mix... I gave the water in the aluminum pan to the big banana.
Ha. Yes I am still a member of the club. Glad you found the original post. I looked for it one day and could not find. There was an addendum I will try to find. Funny thing: Just yesterday I looked at my garden (well actually, my wife looked at my garden and said "my goodness that squash it squeezed in there among those tomatoes") and I thought that the PETC thread should be re-activated.applestar wrote:Feldon, Imafan, we have a club -- I can't remember the initials/acronym right now ...something like Plant Everything Too Close... but I'll look for the thread.
ETA https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... =4&t=26392 (there might be a more recent thread too. Anyone know? help me out here lakngulf.)
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Yes, it should. I really need to attend a meeting, I think.
Here is the third in-ground tomato garden staging map. It's a small area and just a few tomatoes. But the map maybe expanded later to include the "Bucket Brigade" of dwarfs and compact determinates in 5 gal bucket containers which, ATM, I'm thinking will be lined up on the adjacent patio.
Due to many interruptions, I only got around to very roughly prepping the area. Actually I still need to add more amendments.
The wall trellis to the right supports a trumpet honeysuckle and a robin builds a nest in it every year (is it the same bird?). She is sitting on her eggs now and takes off with an alarm call every time I get "too close." I don't know how many times I jumped when she screeched in my ear and winged right by me. Then she wouldn't come back to the nest until I left the area.
...then I discovered a BIG poison ivy near the foundation. It had big leaves -- probably a 3rd year or older plant --- and had grown a couple of branching vines under the siding (thank you mrs. Robin )
But the major "side track" came from the brick path. They were originally arranged to form curbed bays in front of the bed for strawberries. When I removed them for thorough weeding, I had the idea to make a path for easier access because this bed is 4 ft deep and I can't reach all the way in. I rather like it. ...but it did make the available planting space smaller..... I did plant the potatoes. They are tiny shriveled up overgrown sprouted in the pantry leftovers from last year' harvest. So I have no idea how well they will grow. But they will necessitate thorough digging up of the front border area during harvest, plus the all the mulch used for the potato growing can be worked in. I'll be able to get the area in better shape for next year after re-situating and re-arranging the strawberry plants properly in the process. Potatoes are good pioneer crop in new or refurbishing beds.
In a sunny, well drained area, sweet potatoes are great for next year's heavy feeders because you can leave behind all the vines and foliage greens over the winter to break down.
Here is the third in-ground tomato garden staging map. It's a small area and just a few tomatoes. But the map maybe expanded later to include the "Bucket Brigade" of dwarfs and compact determinates in 5 gal bucket containers which, ATM, I'm thinking will be lined up on the adjacent patio.
Due to many interruptions, I only got around to very roughly prepping the area. Actually I still need to add more amendments.
The wall trellis to the right supports a trumpet honeysuckle and a robin builds a nest in it every year (is it the same bird?). She is sitting on her eggs now and takes off with an alarm call every time I get "too close." I don't know how many times I jumped when she screeched in my ear and winged right by me. Then she wouldn't come back to the nest until I left the area.
...then I discovered a BIG poison ivy near the foundation. It had big leaves -- probably a 3rd year or older plant --- and had grown a couple of branching vines under the siding (thank you mrs. Robin )
But the major "side track" came from the brick path. They were originally arranged to form curbed bays in front of the bed for strawberries. When I removed them for thorough weeding, I had the idea to make a path for easier access because this bed is 4 ft deep and I can't reach all the way in. I rather like it. ...but it did make the available planting space smaller..... I did plant the potatoes. They are tiny shriveled up overgrown sprouted in the pantry leftovers from last year' harvest. So I have no idea how well they will grow. But they will necessitate thorough digging up of the front border area during harvest, plus the all the mulch used for the potato growing can be worked in. I'll be able to get the area in better shape for next year after re-situating and re-arranging the strawberry plants properly in the process. Potatoes are good pioneer crop in new or refurbishing beds.
In a sunny, well drained area, sweet potatoes are great for next year's heavy feeders because you can leave behind all the vines and foliage greens over the winter to break down.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
...45 plants in the ground and the patio container and windowbox when all done. Four more cherry tomatoes along the fence by the Enterprise Apple (49), plus ten 5-gal Dwarf and Compact DET Bucket Brigade (59) and twenty 3-gal square pot Compact Dwarf and Micro in a TBD formation bed design in a new front yard location (mostly DET... And that makes 79).... Yep, that's about my limit.
...telling myself I will only plan on planting 50-75 tomato plants next year....
...telling myself I will only plan on planting 50-75 tomato plants next year....
I am "telling myself" the same thing. But I seldom listen.applestar wrote:telling myself I will only plan on planting 50-75 tomato plants next year....
This year I am going for mass production, and then just do a reasonable amount for next year. I have lots of folks around the lake who boat by to check on my garden here. They admire, and I give them plenty of maters. It gives me pleasure to give them away, they like them, and the maters are pretty good, especially the ones grown in the virgin top soil from the farm.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Yay! Finished planting the tomatoes and most of the companions in the Patio Side Tomato Garden. I made a birdbath from a pot lid and a vase to recompense Mrs. Robin for all the fright I gave her, and for pruning a significant overhanging mass of the trumpet honeysuckle. I heard the loud whirring of a hummingbird over my head while I was planting, but I think it left in disgust at finding 2/3 of the blossoms gone.
While she was away, I took a blind shot of the nest by reaching up over my head and snapping the shutter. So pleased to find I obtained the interior view of the nest and the precious contents within
Here's the updated map (replacing the previously posted concept map) I realized this bed must be longer than I thought -- maybe 12-13 feet. I moved the two center front plants wider apart and switched places for Cherokee Lime and Cherokee Lime Stripes I'm going to have to rethink where to plant the marigolds and add more plants -- maybe basil and salvia or snapdragons.... While she was away, I took a blind shot of the nest by reaching up over my head and snapping the shutter. So pleased to find I obtained the interior view of the nest and the precious contents within
Last edited by applestar on Fri May 23, 2014 5:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Reason: Replaced the concept map with actual map.
Reason: Replaced the concept map with actual map.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
YOU KNOW WHAT??
I'm looking at the photo I posted thinking something is missing...
THERE IS NO RABBIT PROOF FENCE AROUND THIS BED
...well, I'm too tired to do anything now. I hope nothing happens to them until I can get to it.
Another thing I forgot to mention -- the area to the left in front of the honeysuckle used to be full of Crocosmia 'Lucifer' but I found a bunch of mushy corms. Crocosmia is borderline zone here and I think this winter's severe cold did them in since I didn't take extra measures to mulch and protect them... lulled by previous couple years of mild winters.
I'm looking at the photo I posted thinking something is missing...
THERE IS NO RABBIT PROOF FENCE AROUND THIS BED
...well, I'm too tired to do anything now. I hope nothing happens to them until I can get to it.
Another thing I forgot to mention -- the area to the left in front of the honeysuckle used to be full of Crocosmia 'Lucifer' but I found a bunch of mushy corms. Crocosmia is borderline zone here and I think this winter's severe cold did them in since I didn't take extra measures to mulch and protect them... lulled by previous couple years of mild winters.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
I soaked some pole and runner beans overnight 5/17-18 and rinse/drained them 4 times yesterday. Today, practically all of the Kentucky Wonder and Purple Podded Pole beans had germinated, and a handful of the Scarlet and Sunset Runner Beans, so. I sowed them in the VG raised bed gardens. These are what's left in the sprouter:
I also sowed some overgrown Sayamusume edamame. They were starting to green up and had to be planted or they would have spoiled, so I just stuck them anywhere I could.
The white on the runner beans are not germination but attachment scar/bellybutton, but there IS one starting to germinate at 12:00.I also sowed some overgrown Sayamusume edamame. They were starting to green up and had to be planted or they would have spoiled, so I just stuck them anywhere I could.
Any thoughts on the reported "allelopathy" issues with sunflowers, AppleStar?
I have had weeds from the nightshade family, first show up in my garden under sunflowers. The sunflowers certainly didn't seem to have any toxic effect on them! I have thought better of planting pole beans or anything that looks sensitive amongst the sunflowers. Mostly, they grow in the same places in the veggie garden, year after year.
No tomato worms since I started doing this! Sunflowers attract finches and chickadees right thru the season. It is like the birds are establishing "dibs" on the seeds long before they show up.
Steve
I have had weeds from the nightshade family, first show up in my garden under sunflowers. The sunflowers certainly didn't seem to have any toxic effect on them! I have thought better of planting pole beans or anything that looks sensitive amongst the sunflowers. Mostly, they grow in the same places in the veggie garden, year after year.
No tomato worms since I started doing this! Sunflowers attract finches and chickadees right thru the season. It is like the birds are establishing "dibs" on the seeds long before they show up.
Steve
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Oh interesting! I hadn't considered the sunflower allelopathy. Most of the pole beans went in under tomato and pea trellis, and under the cherry trees, but as indicated on the map a few were planted along the sunflower row so I guess I'll find out. I *think* sunflowers and cucurbits (melons and cukes) are supposed to be compatible.
Sunflowers and cherry tomatoes are to alternate along the fence along the apple tree so that should work out based on what you said. I checked on the sunflower seedlings there this morning, and they seem to be growing strong, so I'll go ahead and plant the cherry tomato seedlings. I know apple tree and tomatoes/solanacea are compatible, but I wonder if there will be negative influence from the sunflowers on the apple tree.... Maybe I'll plant the tomatoes a little closer to the apple tree to hopefully provide a bit of root zone buffer.
Sunflowers and cherry tomatoes are to alternate along the fence along the apple tree so that should work out based on what you said. I checked on the sunflower seedlings there this morning, and they seem to be growing strong, so I'll go ahead and plant the cherry tomato seedlings. I know apple tree and tomatoes/solanacea are compatible, but I wonder if there will be negative influence from the sunflowers on the apple tree.... Maybe I'll plant the tomatoes a little closer to the apple tree to hopefully provide a bit of root zone buffer.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
I had to plant two more watermelons in the SFHX watermelon patch. So now, I DO have 8 watermelons planted in that space. But there is a wide stretch between the watermelons' raised row and the fence and they can roam in that direction if they want,
The Charleston Gray that was wilty (furthest plant) had perked up a bit this morning... But got a bit limp again later in the sun. I guess something is wrong with its root system -- maybe I accidentally broke it's roots while transplanting without realizing it
The Charleston Gray that was wilty (furthest plant) had perked up a bit this morning... But got a bit limp again later in the sun. I guess something is wrong with its root system -- maybe I accidentally broke it's roots while transplanting without realizing it
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Update photo and map of the "Sunflower House" (SFH) tomato garden and the "Sunflower House Extension" (SFHX) watermelon patch plus the "Haybale Row" (HBR) protected squash patch
I have to say Dancing with Smurfs and Amethyst Cream stand out:
Not as startlingly dark, but Brazilian Beauty, too
And I didn't know Royal Hillbilly would exhibit some antho as well (though this one could be a sign of nutrient deficiency)
This cross's variegation is still going strong:
But Faelan's First Snow is losing variegation due to heat as expected: - applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
...aaaand... The WINNER of first fruits set and recognizably growing for the 2014 season goes to... Anmore Treasures!
This one was one of the few that DID sprout from the earliest 2/24 sowing on 2/28. I had massive failures from that sowing and tried sowing the earlier maturing varieties again on 3/12, but had to give up on growing the later maturing varieties (that didn't sprout) for this year. Nice! I love the types of tomatoes that put on like a bunch of grapes. Great sight, and most get ripe at the same time so you just pick a handful at one swoop.applestar wrote:...aaaand... The WINNER of first fruits set and recognizably growing for the 2014 season goes to... Anmore Treasures!
I have Sweet 100s that look similar to that. Also, have some good fruit on Brandywine, Better Boy, Celebrity and Fantastic. My wife asked yesterday when we could expect first ripe tomato. I think the earliest I have had decent harvest is Father's Day weekend. These will have to hurry to get ripe by then, but sunshine, water and good soil, you never know.
-
- Green Thumb
- Posts: 364
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2013 6:13 pm
- Location: South Florida
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
I can't wait to start tasting them either! ...and I'd love to hear about how everyone else's tomatoes are doing, what varieties you are growing and what you think about their flavors, etc. All the Gardener's in the southern regions are/will be harvesting already or soon.
Thanks for letting me know you are enjoying my posts. I was beginning to wonder....
Thanks for letting me know you are enjoying my posts. I was beginning to wonder....
I carried the youngest and the last tomato plants out to the spaces we left for them in the tomato patch today. That involves a pickup ride of nearly 20 miles, one way.
Luckily, I could entertain myself planting some interesting bean seed. The winds were gusting above 30mph. I felt sorry for the plants already out there!
So, Casey's and Coyote came back home after a "visit" to their future home. . .
Steve
Luckily, I could entertain myself planting some interesting bean seed. The winds were gusting above 30mph. I felt sorry for the plants already out there!
So, Casey's and Coyote came back home after a "visit" to their future home. . .
Steve
I should be part of that club! I plant everything close and pile everything in! I have beans, watermelons and corn all in the same bed. I did melons and corn in the same bed a few years ago. They did well - but I wasn't successful with melons - applestar, since you are in NJ what melons do you plant? I had trouble with my melons cracking. I talked to my friend and he said that melons don't like clay. I amended my soil by putting in some manure compost and lots of grit to help with drainage so we'll see how it goes this year.
In my tomato bed - which I think I spread pretty wide this year now that I'm looking at it. I put carrots as a border and planted some beans and some soy but the soy doesn't seem to want to come up. So it might just be the string beans.
If I can get the lettuce to hurry up and grow I will harvest that and put in more corn there. Or beans. I tried cranberry beans but they don't particularly seem to like to grow in this soil either. Bleh.
In my tomato bed - which I think I spread pretty wide this year now that I'm looking at it. I put carrots as a border and planted some beans and some soy but the soy doesn't seem to want to come up. So it might just be the string beans.
If I can get the lettuce to hurry up and grow I will harvest that and put in more corn there. Or beans. I tried cranberry beans but they don't particularly seem to like to grow in this soil either. Bleh.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
The way I see it you'll never know unless you try.
Have you seen this thread?
Subject: 2014 pre-germinating/sprouting experiment Peas, Corn, Curcs
I ran out of space in the thread title but I also pre-germinated edamame/soy, and all kinds of beans including Good Mother Stallard which is like cranberry. I need to post an update in that thread that they are all sprouting in this heat.
Melons -- honeydew grew well in the past. This year I'm growing leftover seeds and bonus seeds of musk melons.
Have you seen this thread?
Subject: 2014 pre-germinating/sprouting experiment Peas, Corn, Curcs
I ran out of space in the thread title but I also pre-germinated edamame/soy, and all kinds of beans including Good Mother Stallard which is like cranberry. I need to post an update in that thread that they are all sprouting in this heat.
Melons -- honeydew grew well in the past. This year I'm growing leftover seeds and bonus seeds of musk melons.
You have a very nice garden. I love how you mulch around everything. It reminds me of my mantra, "work smarter not harder."
I too prescribe to the "how much can I cram into garden" crowd.
Let me tell you, no matter how big your garden is, it isn't big enough.
My Father in law tilled a 20' by 40' garden while I was away on a business trip. After my tomatoes comprised 1/2 of my garden I expanded it to 30' by 50'.
I will be watching this thread with envy.
How many tomatoes did you end up planting?
I too prescribe to the "how much can I cram into garden" crowd.
Let me tell you, no matter how big your garden is, it isn't big enough.
My Father in law tilled a 20' by 40' garden while I was away on a business trip. After my tomatoes comprised 1/2 of my garden I expanded it to 30' by 50'.
I will be watching this thread with envy.
How many tomatoes did you end up planting?
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
The shriveled up tiny -- we're talking like marble-size to quarter size -- last year's harvest potatoes that had never-the-less had sprouted into a tangled mess in the paper grocery bag in the pantry. These were planted in the front row of the Patio Side Tomato Garden without much hope that they would grow.
Today, I noticed thumb-sized potato shoots starting to grow.
Thinking back, I believe these are "Eric's TPS" potato harvest. So this is going to be doubly interesting.
Today, I noticed thumb-sized potato shoots starting to grow.
Thinking back, I believe these are "Eric's TPS" potato harvest. So this is going to be doubly interesting.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
I started planting the peppers yesterday:
...the nasturtiums are not coming up very well. Only sporadically here and there. Maybe this means they don't respond well to the pre-germination technique. Since I'm out of nasturtium seeds but have a bunch of snapdragon "Black Prince" seedlings started, I may end up planting them where I indicated for nasturtiums. I'll just have to nurse the nasturtiums that did sprout along (not using any as trap crop) so I'll have flowers and leaves for my salad and sandwiches this summer.
I thought this is pretty late to be planting them out considering we had early Memorial Day weekend a week ago. The crazy thing is I noticed this morning that tonight's forecast for overnight low is 48°F ...the nasturtiums are not coming up very well. Only sporadically here and there. Maybe this means they don't respond well to the pre-germination technique. Since I'm out of nasturtium seeds but have a bunch of snapdragon "Black Prince" seedlings started, I may end up planting them where I indicated for nasturtiums. I'll just have to nurse the nasturtiums that did sprout along (not using any as trap crop) so I'll have flowers and leaves for my salad and sandwiches this summer.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30866
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
I'm a little worried because I keep thinking I see signs of russet mites on some of the tomato plants. One Pit Viper has succumbed and the surviving CT Striped Plum that I thought was doing well has green fruits on it now, but I had to remove most of the leaves yesterday. -- these are the leftover plants from the Winter Indoor grow out.
Among the 3 gal Squares, Annmore Treasures with fruits is starting to have that russeted appearance and I didn't realize so I hadn't isolated it. I put a tiny little brown spider on it, but am not confident that it can handle this. -- WHERE ARE MY MITE PREDATORS!? ...hoping to bring some green lacewing larvae and ladybug larvae around.
I think this is a question of foreign pests. I don't believe Russet mites are normally present around here, which probably means their predators aren't local either, and the local Garden Patrol may not be equipped to handle the situation.
...we're in the 40's here. So maybe it's the hot spell we had in the last week that helped them thrive, but the dips in the overnight temps we're experiencing now may help to slow them down.
Among the 3 gal Squares, Annmore Treasures with fruits is starting to have that russeted appearance and I didn't realize so I hadn't isolated it. I put a tiny little brown spider on it, but am not confident that it can handle this. -- WHERE ARE MY MITE PREDATORS!? ...hoping to bring some green lacewing larvae and ladybug larvae around.
https://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/cro ... lycope.htmNon-Chemical Control
There are a few of predators that feed on the tomato russet mite, but most of them do not seem feasible for a biological control program. Bailey and Keifer (1943) observed that a predatory mite, Seiulus sp., was effective in controlling tomato russet mite on tomatoes grown in home gardens. However, this predatory mite was not effective as a commercial biological control agent.
There are other predatory mites which feed on tomato russet mite. Typhlodromus occidentalis (Nesbitt), Pronematus ubiquitis (McGregor), andLasioseius sp. were predatory mites noted by Rice (1961). The Zambia Department of Agriculture (1977) implied that the predatory mite,Phytoseiulus persimilis (Athias-Henriot), may have controlled tomato russet mite. De Moraes and Lima (1983) observed that Euseius concordis(Chant) will feed on tomato russet mite. They indicated that its effectiveness as a predator of the tomato russet mite would be limited by the presence of Tetranychus evansi (Baker and Pritchard). The problem is with the webbing of T. evansi. It hinders the activity of E. concordis. Another problem is the presence of tomato russet mite with T. evansi for most of the year.
I think this is a question of foreign pests. I don't believe Russet mites are normally present around here, which probably means their predators aren't local either, and the local Garden Patrol may not be equipped to handle the situation.
https://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/cro ... lycope.htmDISTRIBUTION
The tomato russet mite is cosmopolitan in distribution. It is present in almost all areas where solanaceous crops are grown (Jeppson, et. al., 1975). The exception is in southern and northern latitudes below 60 degrees and above 60 degrees, respectively (Perring and Farrar, 1986). These latitudes do not appear to have conditions suitable for the tomato russet mite. This mite has been in Hawaii since 1942 and is present on the islands of Kauai, Maui and Oahu.
...we're in the 40's here. So maybe it's the hot spell we had in the last week that helped them thrive, but the dips in the overnight temps we're experiencing now may help to slow them down.