Making a Vermicomposting bin...

[Ridiculous]

ok, it's late and I'm ready for bed but I gotta ask this question first...

I've been throwing around the idea of composting with worms lately. then I got my gardens alive catalog today and it has a worm composting system in there which got my wheels turning again.

I thought to myself, "self, I could easily make one of these!, I have the resources and the talent needed but I don't understand one thing, maybe HG will know"

ok, so now that you know what is goin on and that the later it gets the faster my wheels turn! here it is...

if I make one of these I don't want to do the whole 'sort the worms from the compost' thing, just way to big of a pain in the rear to me. so I was reading about this system here and it says, "as the worms break down the organic matter in that tray, add a second garbage filled tray. Worms start in the bottom tray and migrate upward as they seek new food sources."

how in the world do they get from one tray to another?
does that really work?
please explain this whole system to me?!!??

here's a link if you have NO idea what I'm trying to get at: [url]https://www.gardensalive.com/product.asp?pn=3421&ss=3421[/url]


sorry of none of this made sense, I'm tired but yet I can't stop thinking of how I'm gonna make this work. I basically wanna make an exact replica of that one, with the fancy spout for the tea and everything! I just gotta figure out how

[Toil]

[url]https://wiki.vermicomposters.com/wormbin/How_to_make_a_worm_bin_bag[/url]

This design blows them all out of the water for ease of use and productivity. Feed the top, harvest from the bottom. Done. No sorting. No fiddling with trays.

[img]https://wiki.vermicomposters.com/wormbin/images/4/4a/Wormbinbag.jpg[/img]

[cynthia_h]

Three points here and then I have got to do something rational, like cut fabric up and make quilt blocks out of it:

1) I don't understand how to get vermicompost out of the bottom of the laundry bag without everything just going WHOOSH into the dishpan. My fingers are short (well, no surprise: *I* am short), so encircling the bag to cut off worm dumpage wouldn't be practical. Pointers here, please?

2) The worm trays work because they are, basically, plastic screens. The screen openings are exactly the right size for worms to climb up into the next layer of trays once the castings are deep enough for them to *want* to climb up into the next layer. Give them fresh bedding and new food and--watch 'em go! I have the Worm Factory.

3) I looked at the link to the laundry bag system, and the estimate for materials was $40. Not bad, if you're comparing to the full retail price for some of the worm palaces. But many counties, cities, and solid-waste disposal companies offer subsidized compost bins and even worm bins. For example, the county where I used to live offers what they call a "worm ranch" (it's actually the Worm Factory right now; my GF ordered one) for $34. It retails for $100. If you happen to live in Alameda County, California, see https://stopwaste.org/home/index.asp?page=175 for more info.

My BioStack bin originally came from stopwaste.org . Even then, $33 was a terrific savings over retail! And the BioStack still works just fine. The lid is a little out of square, but so what? I just put a couple of bricks on the top to keep it in place during wind/rain storms, and the critters are happy.

My worms live in their snug home in the carport. No wind or rain for them!

Cynthia

[Toil]

Well, the concern about stuff falling out the bottom is not necessary. For one there is a pull cord that opens and shuts the bag, but I busted mine a while ago. It's useful for getting started but beyond that isn't necessary

So two scenarios: The first is that the funnel shape quickly becomes a clogged funnel shape. Unfinished waste can't get through. Think three stooges getting through a door. they can't all fit.

second, If castings were to tumble out into the tray, the system would behave like those auto-watering dog bowls. The castings will never make it out of the tray as long as the walls of the tray are higher than the bottom opening of the bag. In the picture the cord is shut, but when it's open, the funnel shape is more pronounced and it hangs down lower. I actually recommend keeping it open once it is going strong.

My castings are fluffy and spongy, so they actually just stay put until I agitate the bag.

cost: mine const less than 40$ for sure. I got some wood from lowe's, some on sale poly felt from michael's, thread, and al that. It doesn't add up to 40. I treated the wood with tung oil, which can be rubbed on by hand, as I keep it in the basement and it doesn't need to be painted.

And it's not a laundry bag. It's more like a funnel made of felt.


But here is the important part: I have a homemade 3 tray bin, a homemade rubbermaid bin, and a worm bin bag. It seems my worm bin bag always needs to be fed and watered from all the activity going on. In a plastic bin, you are worried about having too much moisture and overfeeding. No problem here. In fact, during cold weather I have been feeding bokashi in big servings and letting it go down, so I can use the heat to keep the worms active and continue production. If I put too much they have somewhere to go.

Speaking of which, in the tray system, you have to keep the tray completely full of bedding for the worms to migrate. In the bag, there are no barriers. So I'm not constantly making bedding. They really don't need it at this point, I just want the carbon. In fact, I'm using material from the slow bins as bedding for the bin bag.

The flat plastic bins work, but so much slower that I get the feeling nothing is going on. It's only relative, but that's the difference I am talking. I believe it has to do with the diffusion of air into the bag via the fabric. If we added up the area of all the tiny holes in the fabric, and all the holes you make in a plastic bin, what is the comparison? I would suggest there is none.

This is a serious answer to recycling the organic matter from your kitchen. Every other worm bin I have tried is fun and interesting to watch and raise, but this one is the workhorse for our household. And since I turn my scraps to bokashi compost, I am talking EVERYTHING from my kitchen: dairy, meat (not much of it with dogs about), aliums, oils, and anything else you aren't supposed to give to worms.

If your municipality is subsidizing worm bins, you may want to let them know about the bin bag. Sowing the bags and making the frames is a great way to hire some local people to do some valuable work


PS - cyn, my mom is an avid quilter. only person I know who goes around showing a cell phone video of her first time working with the long arm. I made my bag with her, since I cannot sew. We had a very good time. It would be neat to see a quilted version, but it would have to be all synthetic.

[cynthia_h]

I'm not *concerned about stuff falling out* of the bottom. I want to know what will keep everything from falling out whenever I "harvest" castings, since my hands are shorter than the apparent circumference of the bag.

And...I've never worried about keeping my trays full of bedding. If the worms are just moving up into a tray, I put maybe 1/4 to 1/3 of a tray's worth of bedding, and they do fine. I've never (4 years the first time, 4 years this time) worried about keeping the tray full of bedding. WAAAAY too much work. This is supposed to be easy!

Cynthia

[Toil]

How are the worms moving up? In my trays they only move down unless they are totally full.

In any case I am implying they have more area they can access in the bag.

And I don't know what to tell you. Stuff simply doesn't fall out when I harvest. It's also virtually free of worms as they move on.

[cynthia_h]

Go back to my first response here for "how they move up": when the castings build up in the first (bottom, but in the beginning it's the *only*) tray, I put the second tray on and some bedding in it.

When I began to see specks in that bedding, it showed me that the worms were exploring the new area. That's when I began to put food into it for them, and I added a bit more bedding. I'd say the second tray was then just over 1/3 full with bedding + food.

I mentally divide the worm tray into 8 feeding areas and feed them in succession. By the time I get back to area #1 (8 quarts of peels, scraps, and other what-have-you later), the food is pretty broken down and the worms seem interested, by their movements, in the new offering.

They move up through the "screened"--slotted would be a better word--bottom of the second tray. Then they move up from the second tray to the third. Then...the worm-keeper lifts Trays #2 and #3 out of the frame and harvests whatever s/he hasn't harvested from Tray #1, so it's now available whenever a new Tray #3 is needed.

Somewhere, sometime, I saw a schematic of how this works, but can I find it now???

cynthia

[cynthia_h]

Found an actual photo of the one I have. There seem to be a lot of "Worm Factories" around right now, but this is the exact model I have:

https://cgi.ebay.com.au/Reln-Plastics-Worm-Factory-farm-4-trays-Sydney-/380201059485

And there's a nice close-up of the bottom of a tray, showing the slots where the worms move up, exploring the new food and bedding possibilities.

cynthia

[top_dollar_bread]

I wish I had the trays cynthia, they look like real good worm farms
ive seen them at the garden store for 90+$
I got my compost bin from my cities free compost course,I took your great advice and got it for 20$ from city, normally it cost around 60$.

Toil
how do you separate the worms in your end product? It looks like when that thing opens all the goods & worms fall in the tray.do you hand pick out the worms or what?

my cheap 5$ worm bin works pretty well, during the summer I get finish casting with in a month tops (3 weeks).
[img]https://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac78/top_dollar_bread/user380_pic8763_1254091188.jpg[/img]
to collect I simply push the finish worm compost to the side and fill the other half side with bedding and food. most if not all worms move to the new bedding and food in about a week, then the finish casting is collected and set to cure.
[img]https://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac78/top_dollar_bread/user380_pic8771_1254091595.jpg[/img]
I started with just one bin like so and a small amount of worms, I now run 3 bins from the same herd of starting worms and all seem to be happy and breeding.
bedding is now just news paper and leaves (leaf mold or fall leaves),I no longer use coco or peat

[Toil]

Toil
how do you separate the worms in your end product? It looks like when that thing opens all the goods & worms fall in the tray.do you hand pick out the worms or what?

I'm having trouble explaining it!

Ok, when I harvest castings, there are no or very very few worms. They have left that area for the tasty morsels up top. There are cocoons but they are spent. Just like the tray system. If you see worms and scraps you just need to wait.

Because of the funnel shape, most of the contents stay put. What comes out is the finished castings at the bottom. Then after a day or 3 the rest settles down. It never spills out all over because of the laws of physics. I can picture the principles at work but can't explain. let me suggest an experiment:

fill up a large mixing bowl with water, and also a soda bottle. now put the soda bottle upside down with the opening submerged. You'll see the bowl does not overflow and the bottle does not empty, gravity be damned. I think it's because atmospheric pressure pushes the outside water down as hard as it pushes the inside water down. Equilibrium, so nothing moves. Soil, water, whatever it all bows to the same law.


Also it's harder to get stuff out the bottom than you think. I usually have to massage the bag a bit. but the castings I just move over to an aerated bin until I want to use them.

[runfox]

Wow all this time I have been dumping leaves and such on my compost pile waiting for results, looks like this worm method yeilds so much more in a lot shorter time too! I'm going tohave to try your bag setup, looks too simple and cheap to make to pass up. And clean enough to have in the house or garage where my wife can put the worm food in , instead of dumping it in the ttrash can.

One question, how does this compost compare to a regular outdoor compost bin ? I mean is this simliar, can I use this worm made compost to make compost tea?

[cynthia_h]

I have regular compost, too, so you haven't been "wasting" your leaves. I left a "just in case" population of worms in my BioStack composter--leaves, random bits of fabric, weird stuff beyond the worms' capacity goes in there.

Worm tea: 9 or 10 parts water to 1 part worm leachate or castings. Pretty much the same as regular, I think.

But the worm castings themselves are more intense in my experience than the regular compost. I simply use less and think of vermicompost as a "booster" or "extra special" compost.

Cynthia

[Toil]

oh no, I would not say worm castings production is faster than a perfectly managed hot pile. It is certainly easier though, because the worms do the managing.

And remember, part of the speed I get is from using bokashi to feed the worms. I don't want to mislead here. Without the bokashi, things were slower. A bokashi bucket, btw, is an even better place for a wife or househusband (male wife) like me to dump scraps, because it looks great in the kitchen.

For a family of two adults, one well established worm bin bag and two bokashi buckets used in alternation makes it possible to recycle about 80-90% of kitchen scraps without ever leaving the house. You can also do paper towels and such. But we try to use rags. A compost pile, on the other hand, will take all your scraps from the first day.

Be realistic though about how much humus the worms will give you. Your kitchen scraps are not enough to treat a back yard. So you would still want a pile for all your yard waste, as that's a big part of the picture.


yup, use it like regular humus from a compost pile to make tea and all that. For starting seeds, I believe it blows hot pile humus out of the water.[/I]

[Toil]

It never spills out all over because of the laws of physics. I can picture the principles at work but can't explain. let me suggest an experiment:

fill up a large mixing bowl with water, and also a soda bottle. now put the soda bottle upside down with the opening submerged. You'll see the bowl does not overflow and the bottle does not empty, gravity be damned. I think it's because atmospheric pressure pushes the outside water down as hard as it pushes the inside water down. Equilibrium, so nothing moves. Soil, water, whatever it all bows to the same law.

disregard this! I mean the bottle experiment works, but it has nothing to do with what I am talking about. poke a hole in the bottle and the bowl will overflow. sorry!

[runfox]

And remember, part of the speed I get is from using bokashi to feed the worms. I don't want to mislead here. Without the bokashi, things were slower. A bokashi bucket, btw, is an even better place for a wife or househusband (male wife) like me to dump scraps, because it looks great in the kitchen.

Ok Toil explain what a bokashi bucket is? I guess your saying you put the food scraps in a bucket you cover up and let decompose a little before it gos to the worms? That makes sense I have a garbage can and recycle bin in our pantry. So I guess I would add a small bucket for foods scraps , but it will have to be covered to keep from stinking right?

A question too, when you collect the casting, why do you have to let it cure? is it to wet to use right away? Seams like it would be ready to make compost tea with then wouldn't it?

[Toil]

I think bokashi is covered in the permaculture forum.

basically I am making something like sauerkraut out of my trash. It's airtight.

[cynthia_h]

A question too, when you collect the casting, why do you have to let it cure? is it to wet to use right away? Seams like it would be ready to make compost tea with then wouldn't it?

I use my worm castings right away *or* later, whichever I need. I've never noticed a difference in performance. I will say, though, that if you let them dry out completely (as opposed to keeping them sealed in a bucket or similar), they take on the durability of cement.

Cynthia

[runfox]

Ok Toil so I guess I need to buy a bokashi compost setup to start with right.? I don't know enough about tto make my own, but I see some for under $70 so I guess that would be a good place to start. Then when the bokashi mix is done in about 3wks you put it in vermicompost right? Then another few weeks and you have worm casting which can be made into compost tea, or added to utside compost pile or such.

So food scraps in bokashi, then to verimicompost worm home, then casting to plants, garden or where ever right? So you cant put any food scraps or such directly into the vermicopost bin? The worm wont eat it that way? This whole process sounds a litle involved now.

One more question. Now I buy this bokashi bin and set this up, my wife will wonder what the heck I'm thinking, and I can keep it it the house and she can scrap the dishes right into it and it wont stink up the house or atract flies bugs or anyother such nasty problems right? Cause if any of the above happens , she is going to take it right out and toss the whole deal.

[cynthia_h]

I know you were addressing Toil, but the kitchen scraps can go directly into the worm bin. Mine do and have done for quite a long time.

Cynthia

[Toil]

they sure can. I still do that with spoiled veggies, which can't go in bokashi.


the worm bin/bokashi combination is just faster. BUT, and a big BUT - be realistic! it took me almost a year to get my worm bins running this efficiently. Yeah the bag is easier, but you are starting with not a lot of worms. It takes time and you can't feed a lot until they build up.

Cyn - I store mine as well, but I am careful to make sure it has air. I've been told it is very important.

[runfox]

OK so kitchen scraps CAN go directly into worm bag. So if that is the case, why would I need a bokashi bucket? I thought the scaps had to go into the bokashi bucket to break them down so the worms could do the rest. So what purpose does the okashi bucket serve then? Is it just to speed up the whole break down process?

I am intersted in the worm bag because 1) I can make it no or little cost to me, 2) looks easy to use 3) I want lots of worms, I plan on having chickens soon, enough surplus worms for them would bea good thing, 4) the castings looks like a much richer source for compost tea. I live in florida where our sandy soil drains well, but retains almost next no nutrients. Pretty much all my plants need major help to grow , vegitables, flowers everything. I want need as much mulch, compost as I an make.

[applestar]

I'm a vermicomposting and bokashi composting newbie as of last fall, so toil and cynthia can answer better and in more detail, but basically, there are things that you can't put in with the worms either because they won't eat them or because they're toxic/inhibiting to the worms. Most of the those OTHER things, bokashi microbes can handle.

I bought a bokashi kit (bucket and a bag of dried inoculated bran) for about $60, and got another kit with a 20% off coupon. Shop around. Then the bokashi (dried inoculated bran) is about $10~$12.

My bokashi bucket is about 3/4 full now and I'm looking for a 2nd bucket. Ideally you need at least 2 so you can keep another bucket going while the 1st one finishes "cooking". For my 2nd bucket, I'm about to try making a DIY version out of plastic buckets and a lid. You drill a bunch of holes in the bottom of one and slip it in the solid-bottomed one. If you want to get fancy, you can get a plastic spigot kit, drill an appropriate hole in the bottom, and have a way to drain the leacheate from the bottom bucket (commercial buckets have this feature). You want a tight fitting lid for odor control.

I think the commercial bucket is about 4-gal. In the garage, I have 3-gal ones from Home Depot (lid not so tight) and 3.5 gal pickle buckets from a Deli (tight fitting lid with rubber O-ring but very hard to take off and struggling with it each time I need to add something might not be so fun... )

[url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21051]I've also tried making my own innoculated bokashi[/url]. My first batch is ready and am using it now. So far so good.

[Toil]

I'm a vermicomposting and bokashi composting newbie as of last fall, so toil and cynthia can answer better and in more detail, but basically, there are things that you can't put in with the worms either because they won't eat them or because they're toxic/inhibiting to the worms. Most of the those OTHER things, bokashi microbes can handle.

I would go further. Most things worms can't handle, which you put in the bokashi, can then be handled by worms. Only thing that makes me skittish is citrus peels. Also, now that I am feeding mostly bokashi, I wonder if my annual fruit fly and fungus gnat convention will stay home this spring.

The other reason I do it is that it is so much faster than raw scraps, and just as it makes gobs of worms appear in your soil, it seems to whip them into a frenzy in the bin. Or an orgy, rather. My worm numbers are insane compared to pre-bokashi.

Take just the dry bran inoculated with fermenting microbes. If the surface of a bin is showing few worms, and you throw in a handful, the next day or so you will return to find worms crowding the surface. It's just uncanny.

So in my experience food scraps + bokashi fermentation = ultimate worm food. If I were feeding raw scraps, I would need a place for overflow.

Chickens - consider black soldier fly larvae. now THAT is waste disposal. then you can feed the larvae to the chickens they will go nuts I'm told (they also dig bokashi - it's supposed to control chicken odor). BSF larvae will chomp through 10 times the material worms will chomp in the same time frame. At least. Probably more.

Also, the climate in central florida is tropical, no? Wigglers are not great with heat, but african nightcrawlers are. I haven't tried them but I hear good things.

[top_dollar_bread]

A question too, when you collect the casting, why do you have to let it cure? is it to wet to use right away? Seams like it would be ready to make compost tea with then wouldn't it?

You don't need to cure casting but I cure my casting because
1. my bin is outside and its not just worms in ther (fungus gnats, fruit flys, larva from who knows what, pill bugs, spiders, composting mites, etc etc)
2. lots of my casting is used indoors for container plants, I don't want them critters in my house so I let the compost cure (sit in a container with holes for oxygen), this gives a nice window for them critters to escape or die (become microbe food) before I use in indoors
3. I don't use all my finish casting at once and my worms perfer beddng and food not finished casting (got to keep up)


Toil
thanks for the explanation ,that worm bag sounds great!

I also second BSFL (black soldier fly larva) I'm sure the chickens will love them, plus they eat like champs (the larvae)

Also, the climate in central florida is tropical, no? Wigglers are not great with heat, but african nightcrawlers are. I haven't tried them but I hear good things.

I disagree, wigglers work better in heat IME..I'm in cali and it gets pretty hot here, my bin is outdoors and they seem to perform better in the summer then in winter

[cynthia_h]

Runfox, I know we're throwing lots of info at you and, being the Internet, faster than an ordinary human can most likely process it.

That said, there's an entertaining *and* informative thread here at THG about BSF for chickens at https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=48301 .

And I have no compunction about throwing citrus rinds in with my worms; the rinds disappear just fine. I just think of the worms as true vegans; anything that's not "vegan" goes into my BioStack bin. I do not use the bokashi system; it took me years for DH to get on board with *not* throwing food waste away, and I'd rather not add another complication now.

A binary system he can work with: fruit/veg = worms; bread / eggshell / other misc. = BioStack. Even though there *are* worms in the BioStack, there are tons of other critters, too, so more possibilities for transformation of kitchen/other waste into compost.

(Aside to bokashi supporters: I know this makes me less ideologically pure, but ya gotta work with whatcha got. And this is what I got. )

Cynthia

[runfox]

Ok sorting, processing all information and options. So to summarize options:
1) Bukashi bin takes all table scraps, including stuff worms don't like, end result can be buried in garden or fed to worms.Can be kept in house with lid on, no odor problems?? Only downside here is paying some $12.oo a month for grain starter stuff. Not cheap. I would have to find some way to make my own or whatever .


2) verimicompost ( worms) I can make this myself, feed them most but not all table scraps, keep this in garage or outside, may smell and attack flies or such right? End result makes compost I can use .

3) Black Soldier Flie composting, sounds interesting, that sounds like an outside garbage can, fast volume reduction, end result?? some compost but mainly chicken feed I think.

[top_dollar_bread]

for bokashi you can get rice or wheat bran at the feed store for cheap and in bulk ,
I also read people using news paper and letting that ferment with [url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rejuvelac]rejuvelac[/url] or lactobacilli.

making rejuvelac
[url]https://www.sproutpeople.com/cookery/rejuvelac.html[/url]

both are also great for soil!
also the worm bin should not smell, no composting should smell when done right.

[Toil]

Ok sorting, processing all information and options. So to summarize options:
1) Bukashi bin takes all table scraps, including stuff worms don't like, end result can be buried in garden or fed to worms.Can be kept in house with lid on, no odor problems?? Only downside here is paying some $12.oo a month for grain starter stuff. Not cheap. I would have to find some way to make my own or whatever .


2) verimicompost ( worms) I can make this myself, feed them most but not all table scraps, keep this in garage or outside, may smell and attack flies or such right? End result makes compost I can use .

3) Black Soldier Flie composting, sounds interesting, that sounds like an outside garbage can, fast volume reduction, end result?? some compost but mainly chicken feed I think.

Yes basically but as top pointed out it's best to make the bran at home (I use EM). More like 1.50$ per month than 12$.

Keeping a bokashi bucket has no downsides I can think of.

[runfox]

OK thanks for all the info, its starting to make sense now. All the verimicomposting and bokashi buckets and all are totally new to me. I never heard of any of this before I joined this forum.

So I guess for now I may try and make the verimicompoast bag deal in this thread for starters. I can afford that for now. Then when I have money Ill buy a bokasi bucket and try to add that to the routine. I will have to do some splaining and educating my wife on all this too. I don't know what she will think. I guess as long as the bokashi bucket doesn't smell or at attack bugs or fly's it shouldn't be a problem in the pantry with our garbage can and recycle bin.

So you all have your bokashi buckets in the house right? I guess the verimicopost with the worms will be in my garage, out of the sun. Do the worm bins attract fly's or bugs or any such stuff? I know it will have a lid and all.

[applestar]

I have mine in the kitchen. Bokashi compost has an odor, but which both toil and agree are NOT unpleasant. Now how to describe it... is it like Kim-Chee without the cayenne overtones? I don't want to dissuade you from trying Bokashi because I really think it's a great concept, but my kids and my cats definitely don't like the smell of it. Kids, vocally so, cats, I have seen make abrupt course change as they are walking by. (But only when I open the lid )

The fresh Bokashi bran's odor is, IMHO, delicious.

My last Bokashi leacheate, however, smelled yucky until I diluted it to 10%, at which point, it because unnoticeable. It might be because I'd forgotten to check for it in a while. Do you regularly check, Toil? Also, I was concerned that the smell would come back after applying it as soil conditioner to my indoor plants, but the plant area did not have any lingering afterodor. The watering can, however, did need to be rinsed a couple of times (I simply watered with it some more).

[cynthia_h]

My worm "habitat" is in my carport. Although there *are* flies in the carport, they stay up in the roof area. Where the worm habitat is, there are no flies, even though statistically there should be some.

And no odor, even when I lift up the lid to feed my little invertebrate workers.

Because it's outdoors, though, a few undesireable critters (a couple of slugs, and earwigs) have found their way into the worms' home. despise slugs, despise earwigs

But Mary Appelhof, pioneer of vermicomposting and author of Worms Eat My Garbage, experimented over the years with keeping worms in the kitchen: under the sink, near the traffic paths, etc., and never experienced odor problems or "invader" problems in the house. She also enlisted the academic and gardening communities in her town to perform both controlled and open experiments/observations, and the verdict was uniformly positive: worms were fine in the house.

Maybe you'd like to pick up a copy of her book second-hand? Her tone of voice (in writing, of course; that's all I have to go on) was very warm, friendly, and down-to-earth.

Worms Eat My Garbage (2nd ed., 1997), Mary Appelhof, ISBN 978-0-9778045-1-1, pub. by Flowerfield Enterprises, LLC, 10332 Shaver Road, Kalamazoo, MI 49024

Cynthia

[!potatoes!]

got two sets of nested-bucket vermicomposting containers in my kitchen...no smell, no flies.