Help save my roses please!
This has been happening to roses all over the neighborhood. I was told that it is a disease and the only thing to do is to throw it away, treat the soil, and plant something else. Can it be saved??
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- Sick roses
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applestar
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- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
I haven't been actively growing roses for several years now and am not an expert, but those leaves look more like they are being eaten than diseased to me.
Maybe you've already written them off, but if you do want to save them, first thing to do is try to reduce stress, so deadhead/clip off all blossoms that are finished and don't let the hips/seeds form which saps the plants energy. Just in case, sterilize your pruners between each cut -- either spray thoroughly with with rubbing alcohol or dip in bleach solution (I don't remember for sure but I think it's 10%?).
I would also clip off any significant lay damaged leaves since they would be disease and pest magnets.
I'm sure more knowledgeable members will follow with relevant advice.
Maybe you've already written them off, but if you do want to save them, first thing to do is try to reduce stress, so deadhead/clip off all blossoms that are finished and don't let the hips/seeds form which saps the plants energy. Just in case, sterilize your pruners between each cut -- either spray thoroughly with with rubbing alcohol or dip in bleach solution (I don't remember for sure but I think it's 10%?).
I would also clip off any significant lay damaged leaves since they would be disease and pest magnets.
I'm sure more knowledgeable members will follow with relevant advice.
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applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30543
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
You don't think they need to be deadheaded? I thought that was something you are always supposed to do.... 
I always got rid of any flower petals that might hang around and get moldy/invite fungus, too -- but we do get a period of very humid weather in early summer just when the June bloomers and first blooms are flowering.
I always got rid of any flower petals that might hang around and get moldy/invite fungus, too -- but we do get a period of very humid weather in early summer just when the June bloomers and first blooms are flowering.It looks to me like a rose slugs attack.
https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/ ... flies.aspx
https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/ ... flies.aspx
I think it is more than thrips. Thrips are ubiquitous and they do cause stippling and damage to the flowers but not usually the holes. That looks more like the work of rose beetles or slugs which would come out in the evening and be hiding during the day.
I don't think it is a virus either.
I think Applestar has the right idea, cut back the roses. It looks like there are more roses that are not in the picture and none of them look like they have been pruned.
Roses should be planted 18 - 24 inches apart and at least 24-30 inches from the wall. The wall and thick foliage blocks air circulation and roses need that to avoid the fungal diseases which are much more common.
Roses should be deadheaded after bloom and cut back to a 5 leaf outward pointing node. You want to prune roses to a vase shape and keep the center open and the roses growing outward. Feed the roses after each bloom cycle. You can use any kind of rose food. Clean up debris and make sure tools are sanitized so you don't transfer and diseases from plant to plant. Put out some slug bait just in case the damage is being done by snails or slugs and I would use Rose care 2 in 1 for now to control whatever is chewing on the plants and the rose thrips. It will last about 6 weeks. Make sure all buds are removed during the treatment time. It contains imodicloprid and is harmful to bees and beneficial insects so you don't want flowers to attract them.
I don't think it is a virus either.
I think Applestar has the right idea, cut back the roses. It looks like there are more roses that are not in the picture and none of them look like they have been pruned.
Roses should be planted 18 - 24 inches apart and at least 24-30 inches from the wall. The wall and thick foliage blocks air circulation and roses need that to avoid the fungal diseases which are much more common.
Roses should be deadheaded after bloom and cut back to a 5 leaf outward pointing node. You want to prune roses to a vase shape and keep the center open and the roses growing outward. Feed the roses after each bloom cycle. You can use any kind of rose food. Clean up debris and make sure tools are sanitized so you don't transfer and diseases from plant to plant. Put out some slug bait just in case the damage is being done by snails or slugs and I would use Rose care 2 in 1 for now to control whatever is chewing on the plants and the rose thrips. It will last about 6 weeks. Make sure all buds are removed during the treatment time. It contains imodicloprid and is harmful to bees and beneficial insects so you don't want flowers to attract them.
I only have one rose bush and I trimmed off the damaged areas after the picture was taken. I was able to get a better picture of one of the insects. I couldn't find the 2 in 1 you suggested but the garden center had and recommended a 3 in 1 pesticide. They told me to wait until morning to spray it. I hope it works!! Thanks for the help!!
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It could be mites. My climbing roses looked the exact same as this with the yellowing and dying flowers. I have been treating them with spray I made myself every 3 days and it has made a huge difference. Do you notice little fuzzy webs on the blooms? That is usually a dead giveaway of mites.
My mixture is a 32 ounce spray bottle with warm water, some vegetable oil, soap (dr bronners works well) cayenne pepper, and garlic. I spray it on the underside of the leaves and really saturate them--it suffocates the mites. Not too much soap though, it will leave a residue.
My mixture is a 32 ounce spray bottle with warm water, some vegetable oil, soap (dr bronners works well) cayenne pepper, and garlic. I spray it on the underside of the leaves and really saturate them--it suffocates the mites. Not too much soap though, it will leave a residue.