Yellowing leaves on roses is a stress symptom. Unfortunately, many different things could be causing this stress:
Spider mites are common on indoor plants. They are very tiny. Unless you have a bad infestation (at which point you will begin noticing tiny bits of webbing), they are difficult to see with the unaided eye. But hold a piece of white paper under some branches and shake the branches. Spider mites will appear as teeny tiny reddish specks on the paper. They thrive on the dry conditions of air conditioned indoor air.
Over-watering can do it. I wouldn't keep the soil damp all the time. I would water it thoroughly and then not again until the top layer of the soil is drying out. But in the meantime, mist the leaves daily as long as the plant stays indoors. A humidity tray helps too - the plant doesn't like dry indoor air, even without spider mites.
Nutrient deficiencies can be the stress, but so also can fertilizer burn. How have you been feeding it?
You said your porch gets "nothing but sun." If it is truly a porch, not a patio, that sounds unlikely. Porches are attached to houses. Therefore, the porch is necessarily shaded by the house at some parts of the day. What direction does your porch face? If it faces west and gets the hot afternoon sun, that is not a good summer location for your rose bush. Any other direction would probably be fine. I would wait for a cooler, overcast day and get your rose out on the porch.
Keep us posted on how it is doing and what you find!
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rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
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OK I added a picture of my mini Rose's the picture is sideways but I hope you get the idea it's kinda dark but I hope you can see the stems without losing leaves. You said that mini Rose's are not made for inside life does that mean my Rose's are destined to die?? They were doing well. I read that Rose's need 6hour of sunlight so I'd bring them out early in the morning and then bring them back in. Please help save my Rose's.
I will try the spider mite trick and will start to wait to water my plants until it's dry. My house gets nothing but sun the sun shine's behind my house and I have no trees but around my porch I do get shade one side. I hope to start flower beds and transplant my inside flower's outside. I did read your post about the sun being to strong for my indoor plants. I also looked up my zone and I'm supposed to be zone 8. Thanks for your idea's I look forward to saving my plants my husband thinks I kill them on purpose but I have two daughters and I hope to learn enough to teach them not to kill plants. Lol I've been pretty stuck on your site I'm glad I ran across this article and many more. Thanks for the support I also wanted to tell you that the yellow leaves that are falling off Ave these white tiny dots on the back of the leaves. Are these spider mites??? I also wanted to add that I thought I was doing a good thing about raising my Rose's inside to help give them a good fighting chance. Seems if I just plant them they die. Like I said I have a brown thumb but I really want a green one. I added a picture of it you can't really see it but it's right there on the vain.
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I also wanted to ask if these little white spot's kinda look like eggs and I do have a one year who likes to eat everything are these spider mites a hazard to my children? I hope this doesn't sound like a stupid question but I never heard of this until I joined your sit. I don't know if that's what they are but I hope the details of these very tiny white egg looking things could help figure it out.a and to your question about feeding it that's a no. It's still in the soil that I bought it in and I just figured it was fertilized so I didn't think about feeding it. Is fertilizer the same thing as food for the plant??? I thought fertilizer was. Like it came with everything like taking a vitamins.
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Kelligirl921
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shelbyyyyy
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I am also new in Colorado, and I've tried some home remedies to save my mini roses from gnats (I found one green flying monster) but I don't know what else to do! I also got them on Valentine's Day and tried to put a humidifier in the room as some of the leaves are better but I'm not sure if I have too much going on!
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Roses would do better outdoors whenever the weather is good. Roses in the ground are hardy to zone 3 or 4.
If you do keep roses in pots, remember they require high light to bloom well and they are heavy feeders and need regular pruning since the only bloom on new canes and fertilizer after each bloom cycle. If you let your roses go dormant in winter, you would reduce watering and not feed them.
If you keep roses in pots long term indoors or out, you still need to remember that potted plants are totally dependent on you for all their water and nutrients. You will have to feed the roses, change the soil, and uppot as the plant grows. Most potted plants need to be repotted into a larger pot or the root ball reduced and repotted to keep it in the same pot with new potting mix every 1-2 years. Over time bacteria and fungal spores build up in the soil, especially if you have dead roots and have over watered, the soil becomes more acidic and the root mass grows and gets crowded because the pot does not allow the roots to spread and seek out new ground and nutrients. New soil give the plants a nice soft clean media for the roots to spread out in and it reduces the number of bacteria and fungi in the pots. The pots themselves if you are using older pots should be cleaned and bleached before reusing. Plants like roses, which are very susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases anyway deserve a new pot every couple of years.
Some people like to use the organic mix in pots. I prefer perlite and peat moss or cinders. I just have better luck with them. I find that the compost in the organic mixes hold too much water and it costs much more than a custom mix I make. I do use MG potting soil, it is a good product. Moisture control is only good if you know how to water; have total control over watering, or live where it never rains.
All plants need nutrients but organic fertilizer requires soil organisms to break it down into a form that the plants can use. You would have to use fish emulsion, kelp meal and compost tea every week since the soil cannot feed the plant in a small pots, you will need to feed the plant.
Roses are heavy feeders, they need regular feeding. I would use a rose food or MG for acid loving plants. Salts build up in the pots if you use a liquid fertilizer weekly like MG for acid loving plants then water weakly weekly with 1/4 strength solution.
Fertilize once each week with 1/4 strength fertilizer early in the morning and hit the under sides of the leaves while the stomata are open and the plant will have the day to dry off in good air circulation. The fourth week only flush the pot with water until it comes out the drain holes in the sink to leach salts from the pots.
Never leave a plant in a saucer full of water. I only 1 saucer with pebbles half filled with water as a summer watering hole for bees and beneficial insects. The first thing I do with any built in saucer is rip it off. The saucered pots are getting harder to find. I don't use self watering pots because they are very good at killing my plants.
If you do keep roses in pots, remember they require high light to bloom well and they are heavy feeders and need regular pruning since the only bloom on new canes and fertilizer after each bloom cycle. If you let your roses go dormant in winter, you would reduce watering and not feed them.
If you keep roses in pots long term indoors or out, you still need to remember that potted plants are totally dependent on you for all their water and nutrients. You will have to feed the roses, change the soil, and uppot as the plant grows. Most potted plants need to be repotted into a larger pot or the root ball reduced and repotted to keep it in the same pot with new potting mix every 1-2 years. Over time bacteria and fungal spores build up in the soil, especially if you have dead roots and have over watered, the soil becomes more acidic and the root mass grows and gets crowded because the pot does not allow the roots to spread and seek out new ground and nutrients. New soil give the plants a nice soft clean media for the roots to spread out in and it reduces the number of bacteria and fungi in the pots. The pots themselves if you are using older pots should be cleaned and bleached before reusing. Plants like roses, which are very susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases anyway deserve a new pot every couple of years.
Some people like to use the organic mix in pots. I prefer perlite and peat moss or cinders. I just have better luck with them. I find that the compost in the organic mixes hold too much water and it costs much more than a custom mix I make. I do use MG potting soil, it is a good product. Moisture control is only good if you know how to water; have total control over watering, or live where it never rains.
All plants need nutrients but organic fertilizer requires soil organisms to break it down into a form that the plants can use. You would have to use fish emulsion, kelp meal and compost tea every week since the soil cannot feed the plant in a small pots, you will need to feed the plant.
Roses are heavy feeders, they need regular feeding. I would use a rose food or MG for acid loving plants. Salts build up in the pots if you use a liquid fertilizer weekly like MG for acid loving plants then water weakly weekly with 1/4 strength solution.
Fertilize once each week with 1/4 strength fertilizer early in the morning and hit the under sides of the leaves while the stomata are open and the plant will have the day to dry off in good air circulation. The fourth week only flush the pot with water until it comes out the drain holes in the sink to leach salts from the pots.
Never leave a plant in a saucer full of water. I only 1 saucer with pebbles half filled with water as a summer watering hole for bees and beneficial insects. The first thing I do with any built in saucer is rip it off. The saucered pots are getting harder to find. I don't use self watering pots because they are very good at killing my plants.
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applestar
- Mod
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- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Oooh.... this doesn't look good.... please elaborate about what remedies you have tried. Were the leaves already wilting before you tried the remedies?
It's unfortunate, but at this point, the first thing to do is cut off all of the flower buds. Cut at an angle about 1/3 of the way down the stem above a leaf node with hopefully still healthy leaf bud (a little knubbin).
You could try submerging the cut stems with flower buds completely in tepid (not cold, not warm) water with a sheet of paper towel on the surface to push them completely under for 15 to 20 minutes, then arranging them in a little vase filled with cut flower food solution (if you have any) or a bit of peroxide and ground up aspirin and a pinch of sugar --- there's a recipe for this but I don't remember exactly. If they are not too far gone, they might still open enough for you to enjoy them a little bit. If they are too far gone, this will get them too wet and they will spoil quickly. If you'd rather not take the chance and you want to save them for any reason, DON'T put them in water >>> I would try to dry just the buds -- behead them and bury them in flower desiccant silica sand (craft store).
Examine the plant where you made the cuts -- hopefully you used a sharp pair of pruners and not crushed the stems. Do they look dry or do they look green with white core? Remove all of the dried up leaves -- they will just get moldy.
I need to hear what you did to the plant to know what more to do, but assuming it can be saved, one of the things I would do is put it in a cooler spot -- 40's to 50's °F and water less but not allow to completely dry out. Need more info for other stuff to do.
It's unfortunate, but at this point, the first thing to do is cut off all of the flower buds. Cut at an angle about 1/3 of the way down the stem above a leaf node with hopefully still healthy leaf bud (a little knubbin).
You could try submerging the cut stems with flower buds completely in tepid (not cold, not warm) water with a sheet of paper towel on the surface to push them completely under for 15 to 20 minutes, then arranging them in a little vase filled with cut flower food solution (if you have any) or a bit of peroxide and ground up aspirin and a pinch of sugar --- there's a recipe for this but I don't remember exactly. If they are not too far gone, they might still open enough for you to enjoy them a little bit. If they are too far gone, this will get them too wet and they will spoil quickly. If you'd rather not take the chance and you want to save them for any reason, DON'T put them in water >>> I would try to dry just the buds -- behead them and bury them in flower desiccant silica sand (craft store).
Examine the plant where you made the cuts -- hopefully you used a sharp pair of pruners and not crushed the stems. Do they look dry or do they look green with white core? Remove all of the dried up leaves -- they will just get moldy.
I need to hear what you did to the plant to know what more to do, but assuming it can be saved, one of the things I would do is put it in a cooler spot -- 40's to 50's °F and water less but not allow to completely dry out. Need more info for other stuff to do.