arborrelli
Full Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:53 pm
Location: Western New York USDA Zone 6

Request Serissa Styling Assistance (Images Enclosed)

I ordered this Serissa from Meehans Miniatures in November of 09, and have done little to it except for watering, feeding, and some trimming. I'm not really pleased with the current style (or the thickness of the trunk, I'll have to eventually repot it to work on that), and I would like to have some sort of plan of action for spring time to start laying down some general ground work for the future style of this tree.
[img]https://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/arborrelli/Serissa/100_5001.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/arborrelli/Serissa/100_5002.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/arborrelli/Serissa/100_5011.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/arborrelli/Serissa/100_5012.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/arborrelli/Serissa/100_5004.jpg[/img]

There are also some slight marks where some wire was beginning to bite into the trunk, and an unsightly notch in the trunk where it appears that someone had cut a rather large branch off.
[img]https://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/arborrelli/Serissa/100_5014.jpg[/img]

So, I would just like some suggestions or tips on styling this particular tree.

User avatar
Gnome
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 5122
Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A

arborrelli,

Sorry, I don't have any experience with this species.
I'm not really pleased with the current style (or the thickness of the trunk, I'll have to eventually repot it to work on that),
Actually it does not look too bad for a starter plant but I agree that it is too tall/out of scale. Serissa has such a bad reputation for being difficult that I don't know if I would have the guts to chop it. Maybe someone else can offer more.

Norm

User avatar
djlen
Green Thumb
Posts: 660
Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:37 pm
Location: Just East of Zone 7a

Gnome wrote:arborrelli,

Actually it does not look too bad for a starter plant but I agree that it is too tall/out of scale. Serissa has such a bad reputation for being difficult that I don't know if I would have the guts to chop it. Maybe someone else can offer more.

Norm
arborrelli,

I agree with Norm. I think it looks very nice for a starter tree. I have many Serissa plants that I've started as cuttings from my original plants and I find them not as difficult as many suggest. I also find them to be fast growing but not fast in the trunk thickening dept. :)
They require patience and letting them go in order to thicken in the trunk area. They are no different than any other plant in that respect. The more greenery you allow to stay on the top, the more the trunk will develop. I've decided to just let my Serrissa grow 'wild' and I'm just starting to see thickening. Over the Spring and Summer you will see much faster growth and also increased trunk girth.
This hobby is like a double edged sword. We want a 'Bonsai Tree' so we trim the tops and roots and put it into a small pot. Unfortunately that's not the way to develop your tree. To encourage growth one needs to put the tree into a bit larger pot when it gets root bound and let the top go crazy. It won't look like a Bonsai Tree, but over the Summer you will see a nice change in the trunk.
Another aid is what we call a "Gro-Out" pot. You might look into putting your tree into one of them for the summer. I think you'll see a difference over time.

Rosaelyn
Senior Member
Posts: 244
Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:40 am
Location: Brighton, Michigan

Arborrelli,

Being unfamiliar with how readily Serissa backbud, I would also be nervous to suggest any drastic cuts... Even though, my first thought would be to have a shorter tree to match the trunk better.

Norm and Len both suggested some grow out time. If you are looking to begin your styling sooner than that, my thought when I saw your tree was adding a little more curve to it - not a lot, not that over-stylized way that many trees (especially Chinese Elm) tend to come to the US.

Your tree already has a slight curve to the trunk. The thing needing work over time would be branch placement. Picture 2 shows the branches best, and is what I am looking at for reference. It is possible that the branch placement is better from a different side. Picture 1 is nice, but it is hard to see the branches due to all the leaves. (Which is good! Your tree looks very healthy.) :)

Here is a quick Photoshop'd idea of what I was thinking...

[img]https://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x103/littlegirl550/Bonsai/Serissa2.jpg[/img]

Obviously, the top needs to be thinned some, but I wasn't sure how the branches were all positioned up there. I noted the tree's lines to form a more triangular shape in red, curving the trunk and keeping only certain branches the sat on the outside of the curves. Ideally, a branch at the first curve would be nice, but like I said, I have no idea how easy it is to get a Serissa to backbud.

Adding curve to the trunk will also shorten it some, and give it some better proportions.

Hopefully this gives you some ideas, as well. :)

arborrelli
Full Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:53 pm
Location: Western New York USDA Zone 6

djlen wrote:I have many Serissa plants that I've started as cuttings from my original plants and I find them not as difficult as many suggest.
I've been thinking about taking a cutting from this plant as well (will be done once I decide what I want to do with it). Is there anything in particular that I should do to encourage rooting for it?
To encourage growth one needs to put the tree into a bit larger pot when it gets root bound and let the top go crazy. It won't look like a Bonsai Tree, but over the Summer you will see a nice change in the trunk.
Another aid is what we call a "Gro-Out" pot. You might look into putting your tree into one of them for the summer. I think you'll see a difference over time.
I was thinking about doing this for the summer. Could I just put it in any larger pot and allow it to grow?
Rosaelyn wrote: If you are looking to begin your styling sooner than that, my thought when I saw your tree was adding a little more curve to it - not a lot, not that over-stylized way that many trees (especially Chinese Elm) tend to come to the US.
Thanks for the help. I'll keep the suggestion in mind, however, I dislike even that little added curve. The subtle curve that it has now is about as much as I like.

If anything, I'd prefer it to be about half the height it currently is, but I am not willing to chop it that low until I know how readily the species back buds. [url=https://www.kitsunebonsai.com/serissa.html]This site[/url] says that they back bud well, but also mentions that shoots will grow where previous branches have been pruned away. Slightly confusing to me.

User avatar
djlen
Green Thumb
Posts: 660
Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:37 pm
Location: Just East of Zone 7a

They back bud like a bear. :) In fact if you're not careful you won't be able to see the trunk....lol. They actually back bud all over the trunk and branches when they are active and under good light.
BTW, I fertilize with a flowering plant fertilizer and find that it pushes growth and flowers nicely.

To make cuttings use Rooting Hormone. I use Schultz but any good Rooting Hormone will be effective. I also root in Turface or similar medium because I find that there is less die back using that stuff as opposed to potting soil etc.
Just follow the instructions on the hormone bottle, and if you can make a mini greenhouse to keep the cuttings in for a few weeks they should root nicely for you.
Having said all this, remember that everything you take off the tree will cause a slowing in the trunk's growth. The more the plant photosynthesizes the more girth will result on the trunk and so cutting branches decreases leaves and it's ability to photosynthesize.
I'm confused about what you envision for this tree. I personally like it's look (informal upright) so I wouldn't chop it, but each person has their own ideas. Can you elaborate?

arborrelli
Full Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:53 pm
Location: Western New York USDA Zone 6

djlen wrote: I'm confused about what you envision for this tree. I personally like it's look (informal upright) so I wouldn't chop it, but each person has their own ideas. Can you elaborate?
I'm not exactly sure what I want to do with the tree as of right now, all I know is that I am a little displeased with the placement of some of the branches, the current front of the tree (even though I can't figure out how it was intended to be viewed), and the proportions of the tree.

I might not do anything except for repotting it come spring time and allowing it to grow out and see what happens from there.

Why I mentioned chopping it: I prefer the shorter, thicker bonsai.
I'm also getting very antsy for spring, and this is the closest thing that I currently have that even looks like a bonsai yet. I've been very good and haven't done anything too drastic to my plants yet.

User avatar
djlen
Green Thumb
Posts: 660
Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:37 pm
Location: Just East of Zone 7a

The "front" of the tree will be whatever is most pleasing to you. You are the artist. The "front" may change in your eye many times before you are done with it, and that's OK.
arborrelli wrote:
djlen wrote:
I might not do anything except for repotting it come spring time and allowing it to grow out and see what happens from there.
When you re-pot, consider just leaving the roots alone and just planting in a bigger pot and leaving the top just go wild for the Summer season. I can assure you that you will see a much broader trunk in the Fall if you do, and then if you like you will have much more tree to work with.



Return to “Indoor Bonsai Forum”