msalcido
Senior Member
Posts: 120
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:46 am
Location: Zone 7/8 - Dallas

Involucrata Tama Azisai/Burned Leaves

Hello all. Here I am again asking for assistance. :(
My 2 year Tama Azisai is not looking very well. It has burned/sun scorched leaves? I'm not sure what is causing this. It only gets morning sun from about 8a-11am, then it is complete shade. It's newly planted. Planted it in March.

Any ideas what can be causing this?

[url=https://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll196/mlsalcido/Hydrangeas/?action=view&current=BurnedLeaves-1.jpg][img]https://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll196/mlsalcido/Hydrangeas/th_BurnedLeaves-1.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=https://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll196/mlsalcido/Hydrangeas/?action=view&current=Burnedleaves.jpg][img]https://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll196/mlsalcido/Hydrangeas/th_Burnedleaves.jpg[/img][/url]

As always any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks!

luis_pr
Greener Thumb
Posts: 824
Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2009 8:31 am
Location: Hurst, TX USA Zone 7b/8a

No, I do not think the sun does that to the leaves. The leaves in direct contact with the sun will look either yellowish or whiteish if they get too much sun. Something else is going on. Some of the leaves seem to have a gray film that reminds me of powdery mildew infections but the dark black color is not common in PM Infecstations. Instead, leaves with PM will turn light greeenish/yellowish and then brown.

The dark black color may indicate a fungal infection such as anthracnose or other fungii. I would make sure that the plant is not getting too much soil moisture, never water the leaves, replace the mulch with new mulch, do not fertilize until next year and dispose infected or fallen leaves in the trash.

Water 1 gallon of water very early in the mornings when a finger inserted into the soil to a depth of 4" feels almost dry or dry. Maintain the shrub soil as evenly moist as possible but do not let the soil get wet for long periods of time. Keep about 3-4" of mulch at all times. If you notice new leaves getting these black spots, I suggest inspecting the roots for root rot and sending a leaf sample to the Dallas Agricultural Extension Service (https://dallas-tx.tamu.edu) for analysis in a clear plastic sealed envelope. Also, do not amend the soil with aluminum sulphate until this problem is resolved.

For more information, go to

https://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1212/ANR-1212.pdf

If you purchased this shrub by mail, I would contact the nursery now.

msalcido
Senior Member
Posts: 120
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:46 am
Location: Zone 7/8 - Dallas

Thanks Luis - I think it may be getting too much water. I have a drip line system and it is set to come on every other day and it gives about 1-2 gallons of water. I did add new mulch yesterday. This is out at the lake house in East Texas and I won't be able to make it out there until the weekend after next. UGGH! I'll ask my neighbor who will be out there this weekend to take a look.

I did contact the nursery (it was mail ordered) and this was the response -

Hi Mike,
Check the pH. Tama really needs acidic soil. It looks a little straggly too - another sign of pH.

Also, check the watering - could be too much water. Did it just start getting the edges crispy? That could be over watering.


So I'm guessing that is what it is.

I'll let you know the outcome.

Thanks again!

luis_pr
Greener Thumb
Posts: 824
Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2009 8:31 am
Location: Hurst, TX USA Zone 7b/8a

The logic does not sound right to me but feel free to address those concerns.

Check acidity levels with a soil pH kit. Over here it can as alkaline as 8.4. But alkaline soil will turn the leaves yellow and the leaf veins will remain dark green... gives the leaves a skeletal look of sorts... referred to as a "chlorotic look" sometimes. Soil that is too acidic, around a pH of close to 4, causes mineral defficiencies of nitrogen, phosphorus, pottasium and others. I do not know of places that are so acidic here in Texas but maybe we just found one. But some of these defficiencies turn the leaves all yellow, including the veins. So none of that matches your pictures.

Underwatering causes wilting at first, then the edge of the leaves turn brown and then the rest of the leaf turns brown. Overwatering causes fungal infections in the roots and-or in the leaves. Overhead watering (watering the leaves) causes powdery mildew (gives leaves a grayish greenish color, sometimes purplish) or leaf spots. I noticed some grayish areas on some leaves.

Good luck with Tama, Mike! I love the way its flower buds open up with those involucratas. Lucky you do not have to worry about JBs here too! (it is a problem for involucratas in northern areas)

msalcido
Senior Member
Posts: 120
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:46 am
Location: Zone 7/8 - Dallas

Thanks Luis! I was kind of baffled at the response as well.
It's at the lake and I'm not able to make it there this weekend. Hopefully it will be fine when I arrive next weekend. :cry:

I'll keep you posted.

msalcido
Senior Member
Posts: 120
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:46 am
Location: Zone 7/8 - Dallas

Well I ended up losing Tama. I transplanted from the ground to a pot to try and keep it moist and levels in tact - it completely dried up and died or at least I think. I'm still watering it in hopes that it may come back. What signs do I look for to see if it is still alive? :cry:

luis_pr
Greener Thumb
Posts: 824
Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2009 8:31 am
Location: Hurst, TX USA Zone 7b/8a

Oh, no! Well, you could prune the stems in 1" increments until you hit green. You might be able to use your fingernails too. Lightly scratch the stem and sometimes you can "see" green. If the stems are too thin, pruning is better as scratching may end up bending the stem instead.

Suggestion: dump it in a bucket full of water until there are no more air bubbles or about 30 minutes or so??? The rootball sometimes dries out such that it rejects water and you have to do this to make it start reabsorbing moisture.

Good luck!



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