tedln
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Seed Starting Method!

I've been looking for a sensible way to start tomato seeds and other seeds and then leave them in the original starting container and medium without repotting. Simply move them from the starting container into the garden. I described this method which I think will work and was asked to post photos.

I chose to use two plastic cups which are easily available at most grocery stores. If you don't buy the name brand, they are very inexpensive. I believe both cups are eight ounce cups, one is simply taller than the other. The red cup, which is intended to be the outer cup is available in many colors making it easy to color code plant varieties preventing getting plants mixed up. The blue cup, which is intended to be the inner cup; is in fact translucent; making it easy to monitor the root development of the plant (easy to see if it is root bound).

I apologize for the quality of the photos. I made them in a hurry.

[img]https://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll308/tedln/2010%20Garden/IMG_2127.jpg[/img]

I used the sharp point of my pocket knife to drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the blue cup. You can probably find an easier way to drill the hole. I then filled it with soil and pressed it down firmly. I placed one of the expanding seed starting pellets in the center of the soil and pressed it down about 3/4". I use the pellets because they are very loose in texture allowing the emerging seedling to easily emerge from the soil. When the soil and pellet are moistened, the pellet expands reaching the height of the soil around it. I then plant my seed about 1/4" deep into the pellet.

[img]https://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll308/tedln/2010%20Garden/IMG_2130.jpg[/img]

I then pour about 3/4" of water into the red cup and place the blue cup, pre-moistened into the red cup. The water in the red cup rises about 3/4 of the way up the blue cup. This will allow the water in the red cup to keep the seed in the blue cup moist for a longer period of time.

[img]https://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll308/tedln/2010%20Garden/IMG_2132.jpg[/img]

Because the blue cup is taller than the red cup, it makes it easy to lift the blue cup and add water to the red cup. It also makes it easier to check the roots. The blue cup can probably be purchased in clear plastic, but I didn't check for any.

I also like the idea that with the exception of the starter pellets, and seed, and probably the soil; everything is reusable.

I don't know how well it will work, but it is worth a try. If you have any refinements or ideas, let me know.

Ted

GardenJester
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interesting setup. I was just thinking, if you plant the seed, leave top 2-3" of the cup unfilled with soil, you could bypass up potting. When it's usually time for up potting just fill in the top 2-3" to the first leaf stem. All the benefit of up potting but no disturbance of the plant's delicate roots. Also, you can invert a clear plastic cup or a cut out plastic bottle over the cups, you would have a miniture greenhouse.

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tn_veggie_gardner
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Location: Hermitage, TN.

I like this & agree that it would be great to be able to bypass potting up from seed starting container/medium to cup to final home. I like the semi-clear plastic cups also, like your blue one (I buy the 16 or 20 oz ones) for that mid-stage, so you can see root development (and know when they are getting root bound and need to be potted up again). I have no problems with root harm using them in direct sunlight (hence, I do not use the non-clear cup outside of it, or instead of it). Anyway, my only question for you is, the pellets you are using, hopefully do not contain an outer netting, right? Cuz then you'd have a whole nother issue if you did not remove the netting from them.

- Steve

tedln
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Location: North Texas

The whole point of this is to avoid up potting. I will just leave the plants in the seed starter cup until it is time to plant them in the garden. I want to do it in two steps, plant the seed and then plant it in the garden.

I was thinking about some kind of cover and thought maybe those clear plastic bubble lids you see in service stations where they sell those icy drinks. I forget what they are called, but they come in different sizes. I have a friend who owns some of those places. I will ask him to get a few of his and see how they fit.

I may decide to not use a lid in order to avoid the high humidity which occurs under the cover causing disease on the seedlings. I also want to give them a little air circulation after they sprout.

Nope, no netting on the pellets. I checked ahead of planting. I've never seen the netting on the small pellets, only on the big pellets.

Ted

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tn_veggie_gardner
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Location: Hermitage, TN.

Yea, that's a great idea! I wonder if those plastic slurpy covers (or whatever they are) would fit any of those cups? They seem closse to the right size. Let us know what you figure out. The Ted Terrarium For Tomatoes. =)

TZ -OH6
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I think you will be over watering. This design is not the same as a self watering container/wicking reservoir. Hydraulic pressure will force the water from the outer cup into the inner cup and equalize the water level the same as if the cup was sitting in a pan of water. From that equalized level high in the cup (not the bottom holes) the water will wick up so you will have moist soil over top of waterlogged submerged soil (= low oxygen). In addition, you will be watering X number of cups instead of one pan and not have the benefit of using the pan as a carrying tray.

I also do not see the need for a seed starting pellet (extra money, no benefit). Potting mix works just fine, and sprouts create great force when expanding so super soft soil is not needed, you will also get more seed coats stuck on the sprouts with shallow planting in soft mix.

If you start with fully hydrated potting mix in a large container you shouldn't have to water for a long long time. Even with shallow little 1.5" cells the soil stays moist for several days after the seeds come up.

I think that the best way to avoid up potting is to simply plant the seeds in a half full cup and then add more mix as the seedling grows, or simply plant the seed in a full cup of mix and not worry about adding.


Also, do not cover the tops. Increased humidity and wet soil reduce the need for roots. Higher water loss from the leaves and drying soil stimulates root growth.

tedln
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Posts: 2179
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 6:06 pm
Location: North Texas

TZ -OH6 wrote:I think you will be over watering. This design is not the same as a self watering container/wicking reservoir. Hydraulic pressure will force the water from the outer cup into the inner cup and equalize the water level the same as if the cup was sitting in a pan of water. From that equalized level high in the cup (not the bottom holes) the water will wick up so you will have moist soil over top of waterlogged submerged soil (= low oxygen). In addition, you will be watering X number of cups instead of one pan and not have the benefit of using the pan as a carrying tray.

I also do not see the need for a seed starting pellet (extra money, no benefit). Potting mix works just fine, and sprouts create great force when expanding so super soft soil is not needed, you will also get more seed coats stuck on the sprouts with shallow planting in soft mix.

If you start with fully hydrated potting mix in a large container you shouldn't have to water for a long long time. Even with shallow little 1.5" cells the soil stays moist for several days after the seeds come up.

I think that the best way to avoid up potting is to simply plant the seeds in a half full cup and then add more mix as the seedling grows, or simply plant the seed in a full cup of mix and not worry about adding.


Also, do not cover the tops. Increased humidity and wet soil reduce the need for roots. Higher water loss from the leaves and drying soil stimulates root growth.
I had thought about the effects of hydraulic pressure as opposed to molecular attraction in the wicking effect. I had attempted to place the water level in the outer cup in such a way that the equalized pressure would still require wicking to get the water to the level where the seed is planted. I was wrong or the wicking effect is to strong. The top of the soil and the seed are saturated.

I used the seeding pellet because I already had them handy. I believe the potting soil I have is to coarse to be used for seed starting. My thought was to use the pellet for germinating with the seedling roots quickly penetrating into the coarser soil. Seed starting soil would be better than the soil pellets.

I'm also looking at a tray method of germinating and growing as opposed to individual cell (large or small cell) growing.

Still thinking about it.

Ted

Ted



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