Germination of "Difficult" seeds - USDA method

[Joyfirst]

Amazing photo! I might try it on my west burr gehrkins, because they are very slow to come out. On the other hand, now I got heat pad, so that might help too.

[tedln]

Duh_Vinci,

I'm germinating seven heirloom varieties this year. I planted ten seed of each variety. Of the seven, only the Cuostralee is having a difficult time germinating. The seed has been planted now for fourteen days. I am thinking about trying the bleach wash method on some more Cuostralee seed and trying again. If the method works, why can't it be applied immediately after fermenting before drying and saving seed?

I also question the viability of the Cuostralee seed I received from a reputable seed company. I ordered all my seed from the same vendor at the same time. I received all my seed except the Cuostralee within ten days. It required an additional six weeks before the Cuostralee arrived. I'm wondering if my vendor may have acquired some old seed from a different vendor to fill my order.

The viability of some vegetable seed can be determined by the float test. Simply drop some seed in water and stir or shake the container. The seed that floats to the top is not viable. The seed that drops is viable. Will the method work with tomato seed?

Ted

[Duh_Vinci]

If the method works, why can't it be applied immediately after fermenting before drying and saving seed?

Ted, I have no scientific data to explain their suggestions for planting the seeds soon after the treatment, but purely by observation while utilizing this method, I can come up with the following:

Once the seeds are treated with bleach, seed shell becomes very very soft/pliable. And if planted immediately following the treatment, moist soil/soil-less mix keeps the seed shell soft, allowing the actual seedling to break free of this shell (once awaken). If treated seeds allowed to get dry again, the seed shell become dry and tough again, and germination probably would take almost as long as the seeds "not treated". Just a thought, but open to any suggestions...

Of the seven, only the Cuostralee is having a difficult time germinating. The seed has been planted now for fourteen days... I'm wondering if my vendor may have acquired some old seed from a different vendor to fill my order...

While 14 days is non unheard of, at this point, I think I would definitely take a different venue, just as a back up plan. And if those first seeds germinate in few days - so be it a surprise. Most of the fresh, home grown seeds I'm use to seeing germination in 3-5 days (seven max, and mostly from commercial sources)... Anything longer - I become "impatient" =)

The seed that drops is viable. Will the method work with tomato seed?

Ted, many say that it does work, but what I've noticed, once tomato seeds are dry, and introduced into a liquid - non treated seeds with plenty of fuzz on the tend to stay afloat for a while. With this bleaching method - no exception. But after 30 min of treatment, most seeds indeed sink to the bottom. But in addition, you can clearly see through semi-transparent skin of the seeds, which ones are full, and which are "blanks"

Good luck with your new batch, please let us know how it works for you! All the difficult to germinate varieties for me I've treated with bleach, and have germination on the second try (which makes me happy).

Regards,
D

[Ozark Lady]

I have some tomato seeds that are just not germinating, the rest of the tray is up and going, and this 3 pack is nothing at all.

I think I will try that and plant those again.

Let me see if I get this... non-viable seeds you will see, what?

You said, blank, okay the shell is invisible, and in a good one, we see the baby, by blank do you mean we can look through the no good ones?
Do you mean, it is not circled, just a glob?

I wonder if low germination, or poorly germinating, can be predicted by the vigor in the seedlings seen? Will some be small and misshapened?

[Duh_Vinci]

What I would personally consider non-viable seeds using this bleaching method - are the seeds where you see just a milky colored, almost solid substance inside the shell, no definition, unlike those little curly pig tails of viable seeds you see in the picture.

As for the misshapen seedlings - I believe that all seedlings of the same variety should germinated relatively same time, and would be about the same size, with distinct cotyledons. Those seedlings that are unable to shake off the seed shell (even after couple of day of misting them a little with water), I wouldn't bother.

Good luck on the second batch! Let us know how it goes!

Regards,
D

[tedln]

I've had quite a few of those where the stem would grow, but the leaves (cotyledons) were still encased in the shell. I could tell they were having difficulty shaking the shell off. I didn't know if they were strongly attached or if a proven method of removing the shell case existed. I first attempted to remove the shell by simply pulling on it. I pulled the entire plant out tap root and all. I then held the tiny plant with one hand and pulled the shell case with the other. When the case came off, the leaves immediately unfurled. I replaced the plant into the same hole I pulled it from. That was three days ago and the plant is doing fine.

Since then, I hold the plant in the soil with one hand and pull the shell with the other. I haven't damaged any so far.

Since I've never grown tomatoes from seed, I assumed they are very delicate. In fact, they seem to be pretty tough and resilient with a determination to grow if the conditions are right.

Ted