Just wondering what the best thing to do for it is?... The trunk is not much wider then my thumb. Would I be better off moving it to a bigger pot or planting it in the garden?
Thanks
First Bonsai - Move to bigger pot or plant in garden?
Hi so ive bought my first Bonsai. Ive wanted one for a while now but I didnt plan on getting one today but I came across it and liked it
Just wondering what the best thing to do for it is?... The trunk is not much wider then my thumb. Would I be better off moving it to a bigger pot or planting it in the garden?
Thanks
Just wondering what the best thing to do for it is?... The trunk is not much wider then my thumb. Would I be better off moving it to a bigger pot or planting it in the garden?
Thanks
An evergreen shrub photographed at sundown against a blue house, nets (on my monitor anyway) a dark blob against a house.
Usually when I plant a tree to field, it is to allow the tree to grow faster.
A bonsai hobbyist is generally in pursuit of the thickest (trunk) and oldest looking tree s/he can create.
Inasmuch as the photograph is not self evident, where did you want your tree to grow?
Usually when I plant a tree to field, it is to allow the tree to grow faster.
A bonsai hobbyist is generally in pursuit of the thickest (trunk) and oldest looking tree s/he can create.
Inasmuch as the photograph is not self evident, where did you want your tree to grow?
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ElizabethB
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LmS - greetings and welcome to the forum. DITTO Tom - a better photo would help the forum members identify your bonsai and provide you with care instructions.
I have had a couple of Bonsai over the years but I never really got into the art of Bonsai - it really is an art form.
The basic premise is to restrict the roots and train the tree. Bonsai enthusiast keep the roots pruned and in containers that appear to be too small for the plant. The plant itself is pruned and trained using wire to get it to the desired shape.
The answer to your question is no and no. Not until your plant has been identified. You need to educate yourself on growing, training and caring for Bonsai. You are in the Bonsai forum. Take your time and read lots of the discussions. Post a better picture so your plant can be identified. A clear picture of the overall pant, close up of the leaves and a good photo of the surface of the pot/soil. Bonsai enthusiast will be able to give you good advice on caring for your plant.
Glad you decided to join our little family.
Good luck
I have had a couple of Bonsai over the years but I never really got into the art of Bonsai - it really is an art form.
The basic premise is to restrict the roots and train the tree. Bonsai enthusiast keep the roots pruned and in containers that appear to be too small for the plant. The plant itself is pruned and trained using wire to get it to the desired shape.
The answer to your question is no and no. Not until your plant has been identified. You need to educate yourself on growing, training and caring for Bonsai. You are in the Bonsai forum. Take your time and read lots of the discussions. Post a better picture so your plant can be identified. A clear picture of the overall pant, close up of the leaves and a good photo of the surface of the pot/soil. Bonsai enthusiast will be able to give you good advice on caring for your plant.
Glad you decided to join our little family.
Good luck
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Gnome
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LmS,
Although the picture is rather dark I believe your tree to be a Japanese Maple. Is that correct? Whether you should move it up/or out to the garden will be determined by your goals for this plant. If you truly desire a thicker trunk then a period of unrestricted growth is the way to go.
The benefits are obvious but be aware that you will likely lose the current branch configuration and will need to start again once the desired trunk is acheived. The roots will also be effected.
If, on the other hand, you think you can live with the trunk you now have, a plan for more modest growth is in order.
I'm sure that these short articles will help.
https://evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm
https://evergreengardenworks.com/growfast.htm
Norm
Although the picture is rather dark I believe your tree to be a Japanese Maple. Is that correct? Whether you should move it up/or out to the garden will be determined by your goals for this plant. If you truly desire a thicker trunk then a period of unrestricted growth is the way to go.
The benefits are obvious but be aware that you will likely lose the current branch configuration and will need to start again once the desired trunk is acheived. The roots will also be effected.
If, on the other hand, you think you can live with the trunk you now have, a plan for more modest growth is in order.
I'm sure that these short articles will help.
https://evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm
https://evergreengardenworks.com/growfast.htm
Norm
Hi... Sorry about the dodgy photo hopefuly this ones a bit better.
Its a Japanese Maple
I'm after the look of a big tree with thick trunk just miniature and I know that I wont get that anytime soon so I was just wondering the best way I can look after the plant and eventually get the look I'm after
Should I move it to a bigger pot and just let it grow a while or will it still thicken up in the little pot its in? Should I take any branches off yet?
Ill have another look through the forums and see what I can find.
Thanks!
Its a Japanese Maple
I'm after the look of a big tree with thick trunk just miniature and I know that I wont get that anytime soon so I was just wondering the best way I can look after the plant and eventually get the look I'm after
Should I move it to a bigger pot and just let it grow a while or will it still thicken up in the little pot its in? Should I take any branches off yet?
Ill have another look through the forums and see what I can find.
Thanks!
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Gnome
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LmS,
For now, carefully remove the moss from the trunk with tweezers. Are you aware that Acer is a deciduous species? Where are you located?
Norm
P.S.
After I'm sure that you have seen this reply I intend to move this thread from the learning library to the bonsai forum proper.
Yes, we know, this is the nature of the art. This can be achieved with a one inch trunk or a three inch trunk, this is your choice.I'm after the look of a big tree with thick trunk just miniature
I don't know what you expect from your tree. Did you take the time to read the links I provided?I was just wondering the best way I can look after the plant and eventually get the look I'm after
This is the second and third sentence of the the first article I linked to.Should I move it to a bigger pot and just let it grow a while or will it still thicken up in the little pot its in?
Small bonsai do not become large bonsai. Plants are grown out in large training pots or in the ground to attain the trunk size and character desired before they ever come near a bonsai pot.
Brent Walston
Until you have a plan the only pruning you should do is to ensure that only one branch emerges from a given location. Otherwise you run the risk of creating an unsightly bulge.Should I take any branches off yet?
For now, carefully remove the moss from the trunk with tweezers. Are you aware that Acer is a deciduous species? Where are you located?
Norm
P.S.
After I'm sure that you have seen this reply I intend to move this thread from the learning library to the bonsai forum proper.
This is no kind of commandment, but is something I have done to help me work out my next steps with trees.
Turn your tree on a table while sitting down. Repeat and mark off with a bit of tape what you think is the trees best front is. Get up go away, and repeat at least enough times till you find your trees "best" face.
Sit you down with a pencil and paper and draw your tree as it is now. Erase branches (on paper). Repeat at least one time doing different virtual pruning.
The things I tend to prune out of Japan maples are water shoots (tall gangly virtacle branches) and branches that have long spaces between leaf nodes.
In the spring I root prune young JM's lightly in the spring. Every year while repotting. Replace soil and vigorously repack soil with your chop-stick (the one you check for soil moisture every day). Comb out and away from the trunk surface roots. Lightly recover surface roots with sawdust.
On alternate years I: prune out water shoots and long (internode length) branches. On the even years I leaf prune. Which is rather like Morticia Adams clipping off most of each leaf. Forsing a second smaller set of leaves.
Lastly, I might try one of the following.
Dilute some lime-sulfer and paint the bark.
Wrap bark with straw and tie straw on (gently) with twine.
Both of these will tend to change the texture and aparent age of bark.
JM's have a fair bit of sugar in them. As a result they are fairly tasty to vermin, and can get chewed up while dormant. I used barriers to my trees to prevent them getting torn up while dormant, and stopped using any kind of solid organic fertilizer as it made my trees too yummy to live by mice-voles-chipmunks.
I know, what you asked about is pot size. No pot is big enough to equal placement to field. The strictures of pot training are rarely done by growers, to trees planted to field. Only you can decide wether you need to fiddle with your tree, or grow it big.
Turn your tree on a table while sitting down. Repeat and mark off with a bit of tape what you think is the trees best front is. Get up go away, and repeat at least enough times till you find your trees "best" face.
Sit you down with a pencil and paper and draw your tree as it is now. Erase branches (on paper). Repeat at least one time doing different virtual pruning.
The things I tend to prune out of Japan maples are water shoots (tall gangly virtacle branches) and branches that have long spaces between leaf nodes.
In the spring I root prune young JM's lightly in the spring. Every year while repotting. Replace soil and vigorously repack soil with your chop-stick (the one you check for soil moisture every day). Comb out and away from the trunk surface roots. Lightly recover surface roots with sawdust.
On alternate years I: prune out water shoots and long (internode length) branches. On the even years I leaf prune. Which is rather like Morticia Adams clipping off most of each leaf. Forsing a second smaller set of leaves.
Lastly, I might try one of the following.
Dilute some lime-sulfer and paint the bark.
Wrap bark with straw and tie straw on (gently) with twine.
Both of these will tend to change the texture and aparent age of bark.
JM's have a fair bit of sugar in them. As a result they are fairly tasty to vermin, and can get chewed up while dormant. I used barriers to my trees to prevent them getting torn up while dormant, and stopped using any kind of solid organic fertilizer as it made my trees too yummy to live by mice-voles-chipmunks.
I know, what you asked about is pot size. No pot is big enough to equal placement to field. The strictures of pot training are rarely done by growers, to trees planted to field. Only you can decide wether you need to fiddle with your tree, or grow it big.
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rainbowgardener
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If you want that thick trunk, you definitely have to get it out of bonsai pot. In the ground would be best, but a large pot, like you would grow a full sized tree in would probably accomplish about the same thing. But don't prune. What helps the tree thicken up is the weight of the branches it has to support. The more/heavier branches, the stronger and thicker the trunk needs to be. Once you get the trunk where you want it to be, then you will be working on cutting the tree back down to the size and shape you want.
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rainbowgardener
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Just for fun, I looked up an inspiration picture for you:
https://japanesemaplebonsaitree.files.wo ... sai-41.jpg
But I think you will need to have patience and resign yourself to a few years of just letting it grow in large pot or ground. I think japanese maples don't tend to thicken up as readily as some trees. If you do a search on japanese maple bonsai images, you will find a lot of pictures of jm bonsais skinnier than yours.
https://japanesemaplebonsaitree.files.wo ... sai-41.jpg
But I think you will need to have patience and resign yourself to a few years of just letting it grow in large pot or ground. I think japanese maples don't tend to thicken up as readily as some trees. If you do a search on japanese maple bonsai images, you will find a lot of pictures of jm bonsais skinnier than yours.
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rainbowgardener
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continuing above post:
sometimes people compensate for the skinniness by making a group of them, which gives more fullness to the canopy:
https://www.speacock.net/albums/album300 ... _Maple.jpg
Just to clarify something Gnome said above, about achieving the look of a mature tree in miniature: this can be done with one inch trunk or a three inch trunk, this is your choice.
A rough guideline that is sometimes used is that the height of the tree should be six times the diameter of the trunk. So with a one inch trunk, you would want a finished bonsai height of about six inches. If you keep your tree very small like that, you can get the proportions of a mature tree with less trunk diameter. (Look up shohin bonsai and mame bonsai.) If you have a three inch trunk, then you could have a finished bonsai up to a foot and a half tall. So how tall you want your finished bonsai to be will give you a guideline to how much trunk diameter you are aiming for or vice versa.
sometimes people compensate for the skinniness by making a group of them, which gives more fullness to the canopy:
https://www.speacock.net/albums/album300 ... _Maple.jpg
Just to clarify something Gnome said above, about achieving the look of a mature tree in miniature: this can be done with one inch trunk or a three inch trunk, this is your choice.
A rough guideline that is sometimes used is that the height of the tree should be six times the diameter of the trunk. So with a one inch trunk, you would want a finished bonsai height of about six inches. If you keep your tree very small like that, you can get the proportions of a mature tree with less trunk diameter. (Look up shohin bonsai and mame bonsai.) If you have a three inch trunk, then you could have a finished bonsai up to a foot and a half tall. So how tall you want your finished bonsai to be will give you a guideline to how much trunk diameter you are aiming for or vice versa.
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rainbowgardener
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Mame bonsai:
https://www.bonsaimary.com/images/elm-sh ... ai-250.jpg
that is someone's hand it is sitting on.
https://www.bonsaimary.com/images/elm-sh ... ai-250.jpg
that is someone's hand it is sitting on.
Even if you grow it out in a larger pot or in the ground, the tree still needs to do some aging to get a thick trunk. I do agree that you should really look closely at the tree and decide what style you want to train the tree in. Do the top training and th root training and the middle will come along with time.
P.S. I usually don't try to fight the nature of the tree and make it do what it does not want to do. I haven't tried to bonsai a big leafed tree. It is much easier to keep a small leafed tree in scale. Junipers and figs are the most forgiving where training is concerned. Fukien tea is a weed for me so I would not think to bonsai it. I have done figs, juniper, dwarf pomegranate, citrus (kinsu.. it died twice. I took the hint), bougainvillea, jade, and geometry tree ( I kept killing that one too). I tried with a rose but maybe I did not choose the right rose.
I have also done topiary, the easy kind with euphorbia cotonifolia, rosemary, Mexican oregano (did not work out quite the way I wanted it to), and stone pine.
None of these ever go dormant and they are always outside in zone 12a.
P.S. I usually don't try to fight the nature of the tree and make it do what it does not want to do. I haven't tried to bonsai a big leafed tree. It is much easier to keep a small leafed tree in scale. Junipers and figs are the most forgiving where training is concerned. Fukien tea is a weed for me so I would not think to bonsai it. I have done figs, juniper, dwarf pomegranate, citrus (kinsu.. it died twice. I took the hint), bougainvillea, jade, and geometry tree ( I kept killing that one too). I tried with a rose but maybe I did not choose the right rose.
I have also done topiary, the easy kind with euphorbia cotonifolia, rosemary, Mexican oregano (did not work out quite the way I wanted it to), and stone pine.
None of these ever go dormant and they are always outside in zone 12a.