Wiring

[opabinia51]

In all of the books that I have read that were published pre-1990 the authors always say to use some sort of rubber or tubing underneath the wire to protect the tree but, in all modern publications the authors just apply the wire directly to the tree.
I would naturally think that using some sort of buffer to protect the tree from the wire would be better but, I am guessing that there is a sound reason why authors are not advocating to use rubber, etc to protect the trees. Any ideas?

[The Helpful Gardener]

Hi Opa,

I have done both and find it difficult to get the bends I want when using any sort of cover on the wire. It should not be so tight as to cut into bark nor so loose as to allow movement of the branch and the latter is where I run into trouble with the coverings. Wrapping the wire in raffia is a traditional way to provide some buffer asnd is a little better than straight wire. For real touchy bark like serissas or Japanese maples I have had limited luck running the wire through airline tubing from aquarium suppliers (needs to be near the same gauge as the wire hence the limiting factor), but in general your wire should be done in fall and then off before the heavy growth of spring, so bark damage should not be a problem (and yes, I have forgotten and damaged some trees, and yes, they do recover...)

Scott

[opabinia51]

Hi Scott. it's interesting that you say to wire your trees in the fall. I read somewhere that you wire them in the spring and that way when the new growth rings ... (for lack of a better phrase ).... grow into place, they hold the branch in the place that the wire held it. And that this is why you have t be really dilligent in watching to see if the bark is being damaged.
Should I be wiring my Western Red Cedar now?

[The Helpful Gardener]

Here's why you wire now...

As the tree goes dormant (or at least slows down) water begins to leave the branches. Much like a stick of celery that is drying, the branch becomes more pliable and easier to bend into the shape you want. The lack of growth allows for the wire to be left in place for a longer time, allowing the branch to "set" better, and your wire comes off just as the weather makes trees more showable...

Don't know where your other info comes from but I am suspicious of it already... I see the point about the growth rings, but can't reconcile it with what Val taught me and what I've read. You REALLY would need to be careful wiring in spring...

Scott

[opabinia51]

That's interesting..... I guess I'll try wiring the tree now. I'm really curious about this now. Perhaps it was just the pruning that I read about that said to do it in the spring and I just made the link in my head to wiring. Though, a fellow at IBC told me that I could wire the tree at the same time that I pruned it. (With regard to wiring the trunk to get that curved look).
I'll try wiring the tree and post this question at IBC to see what they say.

Thanks for the info Scott.

I do know that somewhere in all the literature that I have read it said that with wiring in the spring, the cambium grows in to "set" the branch. I would think that with a Deciduous tree, the only time to wire would be in the spring but... obviously much more research need be done.

[opabinia51]

Yes, I've been talking to a local bonsai enthusiast and he said that it doesn't really make a difference when you wire your tree. He noted that you have to be much more careful in the spring. (He uses burlap instead of rafia)
Also, a response that I just recieved from IBC is from a guy that wires his trees in the fall to protect them from frost.

I guess this just hastens back to what I believe you (SCOTT) said in the Bonsai section which was something along the lines of: "If you ask a dozen different bonsai enthusiasts the same question, you'll get a dozen different answers." Such be true.

thanks again for the advice Scott. I'm going to wire my trees tonight.

[opabinia51]

Just recieved this information on "When To Wire" :


Concerning what time is the best for wiring, it depends of what kind of tree that has to be wired. You can wire all year, but the time the wire can stay on the branches depends of the growing habits of the tree.

Pines wired after November can keep the wire on approximately between six to ten months.
If a Pine is wired in early autumn, it is important to look after the wire after just two or tree months to prevent the branches getting damaging marks by the wire. This is due to the fact that root growth is extensive at this time, and thereby the branches will swell faster than the rest of the year.
Especially in the case of Pines it will take very a long time, or even be impossible, to correct branches with wire marks.

The branches of most deciduous trees swells fast when buds sprout in spring. When you wire deciduous trees, it is safer to wait until summer or later, unless you are very keen to observe the trees, and removes the wire in time. A few days of laciness and failing of observing the trees can damage the branches in the fast growing period in spring.

Wiring deciduous trees is easier after the leaves are of. The chance of breaking fragile tender shoots is less, and it is far easier to observe and make a fine silhouette without leaves preventing you to observe the overall branch structure.

It is no problem to wire during winter, but the wire has to stay on longer before it will keep the branches in position.
Some species, like Pines may need to be rewired in order to keep older branches in position. Remember to do this in the opposite direction in order to keep the wire from making marks in the branches.

[The Helpful Gardener]

All good advice Opa. Remembering to check your wire to avoid scarring is uppermost in my mind; other than that there are a lot of ways to skin that cat...

Scott

[opabinia51]

On a different topic: SOIL. I recieved a bag of Akadama for Christmas and was talking to a local bonsai enthusiast who uses just pure akadama to grow his trees in. In a book that I am currently reading on Bonsai, it says that this can be done but, the trees will not grow as well as a tree grown in a mixture of Akadama and other ingredients such as grit, and compost.

What are you thoughts?

[The Helpful Gardener]

The purists like to talk about singular soils; pine enthusiasts sometimes talk about pure sand as the preferred medium, but imagine yourself eating nothing but chocolate cake for the rest of your life. Despite the fact it has most of the major food groups included, it would hardly comprise a complete diet, and that's kind of how I look at soil. Sure we are trying to restrict access to supplements in the interest of dwarfing our trees, but slow and steady wins the race with bonsai and I like the idea of weaning an older, established tree rather than depriving a younger tree while it is forming up. So I guess the answer is "Depends on how old the tree is and what you are trying to achieve". Sounds like a cop-out, but I stand by it...

Scott

[opabinia51]

Interesting.... my rational(e?) was that even though my goal was to dwarf the tree, the tree itself still needs the same nutrients, etc to grow and using one soil (if you can really call Akadama a soil) would only deprive the tree of vital nutrients and or growth media. I guess I have already decided on on using a combination of grit, peat and some sort of organic substrate (whether it be compost, dirt or manure). Would Akadama be a suitable substitute to sand or perlite? Or would you recommend using a combination of Sand and Akadama or all three?

I have this one great bonsai book.... The Bonsai Survival Manual that gives the recommended soil mixtures for most trees used for bonsai however, none of the recipes inclue Akadama.

thanks Scott!!

[The Helpful Gardener]

I would probably use the akadama along with an appropriate amount of organic matter. It really depends on granule size; I screen everything so I am able to choose appropriate sizes for where in the pot I am filling and the size pot I am using.

Quick note; akadama is considered a good soil for conifers so it should be perfect for your cedar...

Scott

[opabinia51]

You have an excellent memory my friend. Thanks!!! I actually have two cedars now, I have decided on the shape for at least one of them and the other, I have been looking at today and have decided where I want to shorten it. I'm not going to do a Jin with the second one though.

[The Helpful Gardener]

The western cedars make excellent uprights, especially formals...

[opabinia51]

Yes, for the one that is not going to be a JIN I am doing a style that is not traditional. It is going to be modeled after a tree that I saw growing in one of my old neighbourhoods. Anyway, the tree will have one central trunk and two side trunks that will each curve around in a loop and then point straight upward.
The natural tree is really beautiful and I am hoping to mimic it very closely. I was thinking of an informal upright for the Jin tree.

[The Helpful Gardener]

We'll need images of course...

[opabinia51]

Sure but, those will be months if not years away. I just picked out a tree that might have the correct branch placement last December and I decided not to try wiring it yet. So, once I have something that will be worthwhile showing you, I will figure out how to post images on your site and show you my liitle "to be" masterpiece.

[The Helpful Gardener]

Bonsai is about patience; we'll wait

Scott

[opabinia51]

Yes, patience is but a virtue.

[opabinia51]

Just got back for my first ever bonsai course a few hours ago with a lovely little "in training" Tsuga or Hemlock tree. I trained as an informal upright and if I do say so myself, it is a beautiful little tree. I couldn't believe how much I took off! Wow!
Lots of fun!! Here is to decades and decades of love and tender care for all of my trees. I am now "OFFICIALLY" hooked.

[opabinia51]

ON WIRING:

Yes, wiring. My bonsai instructor showed us a great way to wire your tree. (and therefore train it) You start wiring the outside of the lower branch of your tree and then move up the stem of the tree and wire the branch on the opposite side. You have to be careful not to wire the tree tightly as you want to leave room for it to grow.
Conversely, you don't want to be to loose or the wire will not form the tree. But, with this method you can leave quite a bit of space between the tree and the wire and you can still manipulate the branches any which way you want.

Oh and we did not use Raffia.

[The Helpful Gardener]

When wiring across the trunk like you are talking you need at least two turns around the trunk before wiring the second branch or the two branches will leverage against each other (no holding power AT ALL).

I don't like leaving space between the wire and the branch; less holding power and it's just unsightly . I learned to apply the wire to the branch with your thumbs; nice even pressure and you don't overtighten as you can if just twisting it on (tightening the whole length, therefor MUCH tighter back at the start; can cut into the branch quickly...)

Scott

[opabinia51]

Well, I'm not talking about a lot of space... just a little. The branches are just as easily moved about and held in place as they would be if you had the wire right tight against the wood and there is no danger in damaging the tree.

Of course, you have to be vigilant to watch the tree to make sure that it doesn't grow into the space..... space... I'm not sure that space is the correct word here.... maybe just to say that you wrap the wire more loosely... snug but not tight..... Yes... I think that's it.

Anyway, there is still a little space for the tree to grow but, it is not cutting into the bark as the tree grows. Gives the bonsai enthusiast a little protection against damage to the tree. (Which is permanent unsightlyness rather than, shot term unsightlyness). And looking at my Hemlock tree... I think it looks really nice. It's a little over a year and other than for the wire, it looks like it is much older.

And yes, thanks for mentioning the twice around the trunk thing, I forgot to say that.

[The Helpful Gardener]

Sallright...